Faucet connectors

farrington · May 31, 2006

Is 12" the shortest length made for stainless steel braided faucet connectors?
It seems to be the shortest size I can find. What I need is 9" or 10" connectors. If they make them I love to know where to get them. thanks

Jadnashua · May 31, 2006

Depends on the fittings you need. Some are available in 9" from Brasscraft. Not sure of other manufacturers.

Sponsor · 2022-01-29T12:20:58-0800

Lakee911 · May 31, 2006

If you can not find them, you could get it a little longer and put a loop in the hose to take up the slack. Maybe like 16in or so.

Jason

farrington · Jun 1, 2006

thanks. I've done the loop trick before for connections under vanities where it isn't seen but in this instance I need them for a console sink. Everything under it is in plain view. I have chrome stops, polished chrome ptrap and the stainless steel connectors would finish it off. I checked out Brasscraft online and could only find 9" connectors with polymer braid. The only stainless steel connectors I found in 9" are made by Watts but no one has them in stock. Someone has got to have these things.

hj · Jun 1, 2006

connectors

"Someone has got to have these things?" Why? If nobody that the dealer sells to ever buys them, why would he carry them? Maybe in hopes that you will come in some day and buy two of them? Dealers only stock things that sell, and the demand for 9" supply tubes is right down there near the zero mark.

Plumber1 · Jun 1, 2006

Can't you find 3/8" x 12" or 20" chrome plates copper tubes and cut them to fit?

farrington · Jun 1, 2006

I ended up getting the chrome plated copper tubes. I've never installed them before. They seem pretty straight forward except tightening the pipe to the faucet valve. The compression end I'm good with. Tighten until it bites and then go another half turn. What is the procedure for the faucet valve nut? thanks

farrington · Jun 3, 2006

installed one copper tube this morning and it drips at the faucet valve. I tightened more and it still drips. I took everything back off and the bullnose end that seats in the faucet valve body doesn't have an indentation in it. I was surprised since I tightened the hell out of it. The tubes I'm using are Watts. Are they any good? I thought the bullnose end was suppose the be a little softer than it is so it seats properly. I'm gonna try another since I have an extra compression fitting for the stop valve. Any ideas??

Mad Plumber · Jun 4, 2006

With solid risers, the top 1/2" nut at the faucet, is tightened first.

When that is tight, then you can tighten the compression nut with sleeve.

In your case, go back to the store, buy new risers and sleeves, and start over.

It's not like I haven't done the same thing you did, and with the same result.

1) Ball end first
2) sleeve end next.

farrington · Jun 4, 2006

That's just how I did it. Tightened it to the faucet shank nut first then the compression. It was seated perfectly but still had a drip. So did the other one. Someone suggested putting 2 or 3 wraps of teflon tape on the ball end. I did it and it worked but I've read mixed reactions on using this method. I also just found compression adapters that I can put on the faucet shank. I think that might be the best way to go. thanks

Faucet connectors

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