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Thread: Saddle valve

  1. #1

    Default Saddle valve

    The saddle valve for my icemaker would not shut off completely so I had to remove it. I do not need the connection so I used a 1/2" x 3" pipe repair clamp. The clamp seems to be as safe if not safer than the saddle valve as far as leaks. I am sure a professional would sweat on a new coupling or valve but is there any evidence that these very sturdy feeling clamps fail over time if properly installed and tightened?

    Thanks

  2. #2
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    Default

    Best thing to do with those saddle valves is to send them to the landfill. They are noted for their failure rate. They seem so simple and easy to use that the average homeowner thinks they're really great only to have grief later. The best thing to do is to cut the supply line, put in a tee and a ball valve. From the valve you need to get the necessary fittings to reduce the pipe size down to the icemaker supply line. Probably can do the job for under $15 for material.

  3. #3
    I&C Engineer (mostly WWTP) Lakee911's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tabby411
    The saddle valve for my icemaker would not shut off completely so I had to remove it. I do not need the connection so I used a 1/2" x 3" pipe repair clamp. The clamp seems to be as safe if not safer than the saddle valve as far as leaks. I am sure a professional would sweat on a new coupling or valve but is there any evidence that these very sturdy feeling clamps fail over time if properly installed and tightened?

    Thanks

    I think you should be fine, but saddle valves are just as sketchy as the repair clamps Gotta do what you gotta do...

    Jason

  4. #4
    DIY Senior Member finnegan's Avatar
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    You might as well leave the repair clamp, but keep an eye on it. I would not finish your basement ceiling with the clamp on there.

  5. #5

    Default

    The saddle valve didn't leak, it just wouldn't close all the way so it was useless as a valve and I do not need the icemaker connection. The clamp seems so much more substantial that it doesn't seem like it should leak ever. I know the best would be a sweat job if done right but getting it dry would be a big hassle because of where it is and the potential for more problems seems to be greater that way, expecially for a part time "plumber" like myself. I have soldered quite a few good joints where there was no real problems with wetness, if you know what I mean.

    I was mainly looking for any known failure of a properly installed quality clamp.

  6. #6

    Default

    It won't be finished. Luckily, it is in the laundry room and right above where the drain is but a leak would still be a bad thing if I wasn't around. If it is good after a few days then it should be good for a long time, I figure. The saddle valve was there for over twenty years with no leaks and a lot less gasket coverage and "meat" to it.

  7. #7

    Default

    I had the same problem with our ice maker. Yep, our saddle valve lasted 20 years too. But when it started leaking, and I disassembled it, I wondered how it lasted 20 days, even.

    If the connection is in an open area, then it won't be any harder to fix 'properly' later than it is now. Sounds like it won't cause any damage if it leaks, either. You might as well stick with the easy fix for now.
    (important note: I'm not a pro)

  8. #8
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default pipe

    If you are concerned about it, there are fittings called "Sharkbites" that you could cut the pipe at the saddle valve's hole and then shove both ends into the Sharkbite coupling to seal it. This assumes you have enough movement in the pipe to pull it apart and then push it back together again.

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