(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: toilet installation - enough clearance?

  1. #1

    Question toilet installation - enough clearance?

    hi all,
    I'm completing a bathroom in the basement, that has already been roughed in when we built the house. However, it seems the 4" drain for the toilet is a little close to the stud walls. The drain is in the corner of the roughed-in bathroom, 10.75 inches O.C. from 1 stud wall and 13.5 inches O.C. from the other stud wall. My question is... can I fit a toilet in this location? Or Do/Should I break up the concrete and relocate the drain in a better spot possibly in combination with an offset flange?
    I'd really rather find a toilet that fits...however i don't want to be backed into a corner either

    i'd appreciate an help..... thanks!

  2. #2
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    21,390

    Default

    I think that I read most building codes require 15" from the centerline of the toilet to the finished wall. SOme people find this makes them feel confined and a larger space is required. Even if you found a toilet that would fit, it might not pass the inspection. I'm surprised it passed the rough-in inspection. They did not do anyone a good deed by placing it where they did, since a standard toilet requires 12" from the finished wall to the centerline of the flange. You don't have that in either direction.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  3. #3
    Plumber Deb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    200

    Default Deb

    You can purchase 10" rough-in toilets, but this does not address the 13.5" side clearance, which will be 13" when rocked. I would recommend that you either move the stud wall to give you a minimum of 15" or break up the concrete and move the flange. I doubt that an offset flange will work and I only use them if there is a structural member that cannot be cut into. Removing the concrete and relocating the flange is generally not that bad. If you are not comfortable with relocating the flange yourself, you can do the concrete and dirt removal and hire a plumber to do the plumbing part of this job.
    Deb
    The Pipewench

  4. #4

    Talking

    thanks for the advice. Moving the stud wall is not an option...as it is load bearing. I'm not really keen on buying a 10" toilet at 3x the price either.
    Sooooooo...it looks like some concrete is goin to meet its demise
    Thanks so much!
    Giddyapp!
    cosmo

  5. #5
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    21,390

    Default

    Toto's that use the unifit adapters use the same toilet with different adapters to allow installation at 10, 12, or 14". Good toilets, but moving the toilet drain is still probably the better idea - you won't have a problem with inspectors or on resale of the house if you provide the approved clearances. You could still go with Toto (made in Georgia) - biggest manufacturer in the world by a long shot.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •