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Thread: Toto Carlyle shutoff location versus Ultramax shutoff valve location

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    Default Toto Carlyle shutoff location versus Ultramax shutoff valve location



    I'm going to purchase 3 Toto Carlyle's or Ultramax's and wonder about the "enclosure" on the Carlyle. The width of the back of the Carlyle (at the floor) is 12-1/4". Is the "wraparound skirt" on the Carlyle designed to hide the water supply valve or is the valve external to the toilet (as with most toilets)? The existing valve sticks out from the wall about 4-1/4". The valve is mounted on the back finished wall; its centerline is about 2-1/2" to the left of where the left bolt would intersect the back wall if you drew a straight line from the center of the bolt to the finished wall. It looks to me like the valve will interfere with the "skirt". Is this a potential problem when retro-fitting the Carlyle? I like the clean look of the Carlyle but may have to get an Ultramax if this is a problem. Thanks.
    Last edited by Reader Review; 03-27-2008 at 03:19 PM.

  2. #2
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    The Carlyle water supply has to be at least 7" "center to center" from the center-line of the toilet.
    The Carlyle II water supply can be 6" to the left of center
    The Ultramax and Ultramax II can be 3" to the left of center.

    If it is too close, it will hit the back of the toilet.
    In some cases, I have removed the stop, and soldered a 90 el with a 2" piece of copper pipe to move the shutoff from behind the back of the toilet.

    If the water supply is closer than 7" and moving the supply is more work than you want to do, then in most cases, the Ultramax will drop right in.
    Terry Love's shopping cart

    Dahl makes a shutoff that is tighter to the wall for this situation.
    Last edited by Terry; 09-19-2010 at 07:34 PM.

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    DIY Junior Member Grabie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry View Post
    The Carlyle water supply has to be at least 7" "center to center" from the center-line of the toilet.

    If it is too close, it will hit the back of the toilet.
    In some cases, I have removed the stop, and soldered a 90 el with a 2" piece of copper pipe to move the shutoff from behind the back of the toilet.
    Hi Terry, for the method mentioned above, did you need to break the wall tiles and dry wall in order to move the supply? We are in the process of remodel the bathroom with new dry wall and new tiles. My contractor is almost finished, just wait for the sink and toilet to be installed. I bought a ToTo Carlyle online which just arrived yesterday. He said he couldn't install it now and told me that I need a 10" unifit. Also, our water supply is only around 3" from the center. My contractor was not quite happy with what I bought, but he didn't say much. He just asked me to get a 10" unifit ASAP. It makes me feel bad to give him so much trouble. Does he need to break the new tiles that he just installed in order to move/extend the water supply to further left? If it is the case, is it just a few tiles to be affected or a larger area?

    I really love the design of Carlyle because it's so easy to clean. And I don't want to return it because the shipping cost must be very expensive. I hope the solution is not that complicated.

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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    It depends on how much room you have now. If the rough-in is 12" to the tile, then yes, you could solder on a 90 el.
    You may also be able to get by with the Dahl valve. It doesn't take up much space.

    Or, you can move the bowl out 2" with the 10" Unift.


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    DIY Junior Member Grabie's Avatar
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    Terry, thanks for your quick response. Our bathroom has only 10" rough-in to the tile. Will a Dahl valve and a 10" unifit solve my problem?

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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    The Dahl valve will need to be set right up against the tile to work. We sometimes bury them a bit.
    You pick up a little more room by soldering on the copper 90 and a short section of copper 1/2"

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