Water Heaters - Tankless and T&P question

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DaveFerg

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Hi - I am ready to finish my basement after many years of its non-use. I have a 50 gallon water heater from Sears I installed about 13-14 years ago in the basement. It works fine, with the exception of T&P valve occassional leakage - and I have replaced that twice valve to no avail with a Home Depot T&P. I have also adjusted the temperature to 120 F. and turned down the pressure (not sure by how much) and we still get these occassional leaks.

So that said, before I undertake the remodel, I fel it might be wise to replace the water heater due to its age. And as a byproduct, hopefully eliminate that annoying drip problem that is not a problem in an unfinished basement, but could ruin a finshed basement. I am considering installing a natural gas tankless water heater to replace the old tank unit.

Units I am considering are rated at 6+ gallons per minute with a unit cost of about $850 - $1,000. What I cannot get a handle on is should I do this? I hate replacing a perfectly good water heater but feel it might be better to do it now than after the remodel. I also cannot get any idea of the install costs of these units. I know they require stainless steel venting and ideally direct venting to the outside. I like the idea of a small unit that can replace my big tank and lend extra space to our remodel, but I am not sure I'd ever get the money out of thuis investment.

Of course the easy way is to stick with the old water heater until it fails.

Thanks for any insight.
 

Gary Swart

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Since you stated that you, "Turned the pressure down," leads me to believe that you have a pressure regulator valve and do not have an expansion tank. Assuming this to be true, that is the cause of the leaking TP valve. It is working properly. A PRV creates a closed system. When water heats, it expands and since water will not compress, it has to go somewhere. In a system that does not have a PRV, the expansing water just goes into the water main and that's the end of it. But, the PRV will not allow that expansion to take place so when the pressure exceeds 150 psi, the TP valve trips and releases the excess. You would be amazed at how rapidly this expansion takes place! The cure for it is very simple. You install an expansion tank between the PRV and water heater. You must use a pressure gauge to set the PRV to a known pressure, then charge the expansion tank with an air compressor to the same pressure. I recommend installing a pressure gauge in the supply line going to the expansion tank. These gauges are cheap, about $10, and give you a positive check on your pressure. Expansion tanks run about $50 plus a few fittings.

The second question about tankless is often debate on this forum. While they seem to have some advantages, they are very expensive, maintance is not always available, and they will be less than satisfactory if you live where it gets cold in the winter as they will not raise the temperature of very cold water enough. A new water heater is in the not to distant future, but when the tank of a heater fails, they will show a small leak but still function. This will give you time to get a new heater. On the flip side, do it now at your convienence, not when you absolutely have to. Power vent gas heaters vent to the outside with PVC or ABS pipe and have electronic ignitation.
 

Master Plumber Mark

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Here you go

read my link,,,

http://www.weilhammerplumbing.com/houseofhorrors/

if that does not convince you, good luck...



install a expansion tank and

get the power vent if you must eliminate the chimmney,

but stay away from the tankless


oh my god , I have gone over 1000 posts...
 
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Lakee911

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You started down a long road here, Dave. Do a search on the board for tankless and you'll find many a discussions biased one way or another.

I'd go the tried and true method and give tankless a few years. Let your buddy get one first and see how it goes in your area.

Jason
 
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