Roughing in Kohler 304 Shower Valve

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remodelingit

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Does anyone know if the outside rim of the plaster guard needs to be absolutely flush with the finished wall? We haven't settled on tile yet so we don't know what the wall thickness will be. Seems to me that Kohler trims provide flexibility for this but their instructions are not all that clear.

Thanks in advance.

k-304-r14.jpg
 
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John Bridge

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These days with non-standard plumbing fixtures springing out of every country in the world, I provide for flexibility when roughing in. I screw a 1 by between two studs and mount the valve body to it with screws driven straight in. I set the valve into the wall but make sure I have access to the screws so that I can later move it forward if needs be by backing out the screws and shimming behind. Set the body for the thinnest tile you might use initially.
k-304-r04.jpg


:)
 
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Seaneys

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These days with non-standard plumbing fixtures springing out of every country in the world, I provide for flexibility when roughing in. I screw a 1 by between two studs and mount the valve body to it with screws driven straight in. I set the valve into the wall but make sure I have access to the screws so that I can later move it forward if needs be by backing out the screws and shimming behind. Set the body for the thinnest tile you might use initially. :)

What do you assume for the thickness of the mortar / adhesive?

Thanks,
Steve
 

Dunbar Plumbing

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3/8" to 7/16" is a good measure for tile and adhesive, not including concrete board or greenboard; every faucet out there has a good range of almost 2" to move in and out of that wall.


If it's an older home with wire lathe plaster....that thickness can grow considerably given the age of the home and the way the plaster guys built the thickness.

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