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Thread: 8.5" Rough In

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member plumbfedup's Avatar
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    Apr 2011

    Default 8.5" Rough In

    I live in a 1929 house. Our upper level bathroom has a commercial, high tank toilet with an 8.5" rough-in, and a 2" pipe connecting the bowl and the tank. The tank is hung flush on the wall, but the bowl is angled out about 35 degrees. The toilet does not work well anymore and we want to replace it. I would love some advice on the most economical, yet technically sound way of doing that. The options i am considering:
    1. Use an offset flange. I have not heard the greatest things about them. Are there some that are better than others if i go with that option? Is 1.5" or 3.5" (to get a 10 or 12 incher on there) too far to use an offset flange?
    2. Create a box in the dry wall to accommodate a 10" or 12" toilet and leave the rough in where it is. I have to bust some of the drywall to move the water supply down anyway because it's about 4 1/2' up the wall right now because of the high tank. Because the toilet bowl there now is at a slight angle, I'm not sure how to box it so it doesn't look dumb.
    3. Rip up the floor of the bathroom/ceiling below and move the rough in. Because of the age of the house, i am scared of what i might find and have to deal with, including the possibility of asbestos or some other major hassle.
    4. Buy a 8.5" duravit toilet (for about a grand!! yikes) and install it. Would still have to move the water supply but with this option, I don't have to worry about trimming 2x4s in the wall, making a nice looking box, etc. But i'd still have to deal with angle issue? or would i?
    I'm open to any and all other suggestions.
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  2. #2


    Here's a question, is the toilet arm cast iron or is it lead? Because this is going to make a difference in the amount of work you may have to do.

  3. #3
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Land of Cheese


    I cannot speak for Canada, but here in the U.S., the toilet flange must have a minimum of 15" to each side from the center of flange. This means the wall behind the toilet must be 30" wide minimum. There are corner toilets, which might work with your layout.

    In any case, it appears the that the closet bend will need to be moved. Where and what type of existing plumbing is installed, and where the floor joists are will have a great effect on how to proceed from here.

  4. #4
    DIY Member Alan Muller's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009

    Default Fix the toilet you have!

    Fix the toilet you have! Unless the china is actually broken, it should be a minor project compared to the options previously discussed.....

  5. #5
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Yakima WA


    I would seriously consider #3. The beast you have is a huge water hog, doesn't sit square, and is really unsightly in general. The box-in-the-wall is a real hack job. The cost of the Duravit would be as much as you would spend the have the flange relocated unless there is a major pipe relocation problem. This may not be a good DIY project, but it is what I would at least seriously explore as the best alternative.

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