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Thread: replacing waste arm and tap tee?

  1. #1

    Default replacing waste arm and tap tee?

    Puting in new kitchen and the old waste arm broke off. I need to replace it and the threaded end is still in the old "tap tee" ( not sure if this is what it is called, but it attaches to the waste stack and vent stack..some sort of caste iron or something with a threaded insert for the waste arm) Anyway, since the wall is open..how to I replace this thing and attach a new waste arm......just a novice here..

    Thanks, Rick

  2. #2
    Plumber Cass's Avatar
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    Get a 1-1.5" PVC T and 2 - 1.5" banded couplings and at least 1' of 1.5"PVC pipe.

    Glue a 6" peice of PVC pipe on to each end of the T.

    Cut out the old T using the new made up peice as a template but cut out 3/8" more of the old pipe than you have new pipe.

    Then install the new T with the banded couplings and your done.
    Last edited by Cass; 04-06-2006 at 03:39 AM.

  3. #3

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    I understand that I should cut out the old tap tee in my waste stack, do you mean to cut above and below the tap tee? That pipe I can cut ...the tap tee looks to be caste iron and has a slightly upward slot for the waste arm.

    Thanks, looking for all the help I can get.

    Rick

  4. #4
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    If I understand your problem, the 1-1/2" pipe that broke is metal, probably galvanized steel that screwed into the cast iron tee. Removing the broken piece can be a frustrating task, but not impossible. Usually you can use a hacksaw blade and cut several slots through the pipe and then pry/chisel the pieces out. This will leave slices in the tee's threads. Since this is a drain and is not under pressure, you can seal the new fitting with pipe dope and and teflon tape and it won't leak. This is about the only time I'd use both tape and dope. Here is another possible fix. Since the wall is open, cut the tee out on both sides. then use banded couplings on both pipe ends to install a new tee (with nipples on the two sides of the tee to be joined) You could use PVC for this fix.

  5. #5
    Plumber plumber1's Avatar
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    If you can get at the 11/2", cut it out like Gary said. It's easy to cut it out, even if you cut the stub off tight to the cast iron. The nipple may be weak inside the tapping and not need much hammering to bend it out.

    Use a small sharpened chisel a hammer and don't bang but tap the galvanized ring right out of the cast iron......

  6. #6
    Plumber Cass's Avatar
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    If the wall is open your best bet is to replace the T.

    Follow my instructions above.

    You may be able to pry out the old nipple with out messing up the threads, maybe not, but if the wall is open just replace the T and be done with it.

  7. #7

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    Thanks for all the tips, yes the wall is open, kinda tight to cut out the tee, can I go at it with a sawsall, the tee rest on a back wall but the front and a litttle of the sides are open...and if I just try to remove the old threads..how to I stop them from falling down the tee?

    Thanks, Rick

  8. #8
    Plumber plumber1's Avatar
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    It should be very easy so take your time. If your careful you won't mess up the threads. Make about three cuts close to each other , but not all the way through the wall of the 11/2" and use a very sharp chisel.

    Run a 11/2" tap or even a new nipple into it to chase the threads.......

  9. #9

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    Thanks for all the input..I'll try to remove the old pipe threads first and if that doesn't work, I'll cut out the old "T"

    I do have another question though, as I was replacing some of the old galv. sink pipes with cooper I noticed down the line towards my main source of a run of about ten feet a small leak (just drips) in the old galvanized pipe 1/2 inch. it's in the middle..is there anyway to stop this leak without replacing the pipe..it's pretty tight fit so fixing the leak would be best..

    Thanks, Rick

  10. #10
    Plumber plumber1's Avatar
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    Rick, I think you will be ok with the thread. You don't use a heavy hammer, just a light ball-peen hammer.


    On the 1/2" leak, If it's that tight, I would see whats got to be done to replace at least that section or length at one time...

  11. #11
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    Rick, if that galvanized pipe is leaking and it's not just a loose fitting, I think you may be looking at a pipe that is corroded to the point of total failure and should be replaced. More over, if you have other pipes the same age, it's likely they are overdue as well. Just what you wanted hear, huh!

  12. #12

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    Thanks for all the input....looks like I need to replace the pipes little by little........oh well.

    Rick

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