replacing waste arm and tap tee?

Users who are viewing this thread

rvt2096

New Member
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Puting in new kitchen and the old waste arm broke off. I need to replace it and the threaded end is still in the old "tap tee" ( not sure if this is what it is called, but it attaches to the waste stack and vent stack..some sort of caste iron or something with a threaded insert for the waste arm) Anyway, since the wall is open..how to I replace this thing and attach a new waste arm......just a novice here..

Thanks, Rick
 

Cass

Plumber
Messages
5,947
Reaction score
7
Points
0
Location
Ohio
Get a 1-1.5" PVC T and 2 - 1.5" banded couplings and at least 1' of 1.5"PVC pipe.

Glue a 6" peice of PVC pipe on to each end of the T.

Cut out the old T using the new made up peice as a template but cut out 3/8" more of the old pipe than you have new pipe.

Then install the new T with the banded couplings and your done.
 
Last edited:

rvt2096

New Member
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Points
0
I understand that I should cut out the old tap tee in my waste stack, do you mean to cut above and below the tap tee? That pipe I can cut ...the tap tee looks to be caste iron and has a slightly upward slot for the waste arm.

Thanks, looking for all the help I can get.

Rick
 

Gary Swart

In the Trades
Messages
8,101
Reaction score
84
Points
48
Location
Yakima, WA
If I understand your problem, the 1-1/2" pipe that broke is metal, probably galvanized steel that screwed into the cast iron tee. Removing the broken piece can be a frustrating task, but not impossible. Usually you can use a hacksaw blade and cut several slots through the pipe and then pry/chisel the pieces out. This will leave slices in the tee's threads. Since this is a drain and is not under pressure, you can seal the new fitting with pipe dope and and teflon tape and it won't leak. This is about the only time I'd use both tape and dope. Here is another possible fix. Since the wall is open, cut the tee out on both sides. then use banded couplings on both pipe ends to install a new tee (with nipples on the two sides of the tee to be joined) You could use PVC for this fix.
 

Plumber1

Plumber
Messages
1,417
Reaction score
1
Points
0
Location
Florida
If you can get at the 11/2", cut it out like Gary said. It's easy to cut it out, even if you cut the stub off tight to the cast iron. The nipple may be weak inside the tapping and not need much hammering to bend it out.

Use a small sharpened chisel a hammer and don't bang but tap the galvanized ring right out of the cast iron......
 

Cass

Plumber
Messages
5,947
Reaction score
7
Points
0
Location
Ohio
If the wall is open your best bet is to replace the T.

Follow my instructions above.

You may be able to pry out the old nipple with out messing up the threads, maybe not, but if the wall is open just replace the T and be done with it.
 

rvt2096

New Member
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Thanks for all the tips, yes the wall is open, kinda tight to cut out the tee, can I go at it with a sawsall, the tee rest on a back wall but the front and a litttle of the sides are open...and if I just try to remove the old threads..how to I stop them from falling down the tee?

Thanks, Rick
 

Plumber1

Plumber
Messages
1,417
Reaction score
1
Points
0
Location
Florida
It should be very easy so take your time. If your careful you won't mess up the threads. Make about three cuts close to each other , but not all the way through the wall of the 11/2" and use a very sharp chisel.

Run a 11/2" tap or even a new nipple into it to chase the threads.......
 

rvt2096

New Member
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Thanks for all the input..I'll try to remove the old pipe threads first and if that doesn't work, I'll cut out the old "T"

I do have another question though, as I was replacing some of the old galv. sink pipes with cooper I noticed down the line towards my main source of a run of about ten feet a small leak (just drips) in the old galvanized pipe 1/2 inch. it's in the middle..is there anyway to stop this leak without replacing the pipe..it's pretty tight fit so fixing the leak would be best..

Thanks, Rick
 

Plumber1

Plumber
Messages
1,417
Reaction score
1
Points
0
Location
Florida
Rick, I think you will be ok with the thread. You don't use a heavy hammer, just a light ball-peen hammer.


On the 1/2" leak, If it's that tight, I would see whats got to be done to replace at least that section or length at one time...
 

Gary Swart

In the Trades
Messages
8,101
Reaction score
84
Points
48
Location
Yakima, WA
Rick, if that galvanized pipe is leaking and it's not just a loose fitting, I think you may be looking at a pipe that is corroded to the point of total failure and should be replaced. More over, if you have other pipes the same age, it's likely they are overdue as well. Just what you wanted hear, huh!
 

rvt2096

New Member
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Thanks for all the input....looks like I need to replace the pipes little by little........oh well.

Rick
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks