Moving Tub on Slab

[firstcut]

I want to re-locate tub, its concrete slab, drain is now directly in the slab.

I need to move it about 12-16 inches.

Choice #1 : Break up concrete.

Choice #2 : Since it may be a design feature, can I use the present drain if the new tub location is raised approx. 12 inches in a framed box, then will can have room to run pvc to present drain.

Any suggestions .

Larry S.

[Gary Swart]

Break the concrete and do it right! Raising tubs, showers, and toilets to accomodate a drain change is never a good option. It will forever look like what it is...amateurish. It will also make the tub more difficult to get in and out of. Breaking concrete is not a super difficult job, there are rental tools that will make short work of it. Open the slab enough to get the drain exposed enough to work on, put the new drain in place and patch the concrete. The patch will be under the tub so it doesn't have to be perfectly finished. Just remember to wear eye and ear protection when breaking the concrete and keep the door closed so the dust is contained in the bathroom. To keep the hole a bit neater, score the area to be removed with a special blade in a circular saw before hitting it with the breaker.

[rdtompki]

I just went through moving a drain about 15" due to a bathroom remodel. If the slab is only 4-5" thick then a 60lb. electric jackhammer on a dolly should work fine. My slab was 12" thick and the dolly-mounted unit doesn't have enough "reach" to go deep enough. I used a 30 lb. hammer and got the job done. Not much fun but didn't take too long. Didn't create too much dust since most of the particles are pretty coarse. Beware the saw, however, the dust will be very fine.

Rick

[Gary Swart]

I use my own 3 function rotary hammer/drill. It has chisel bits that a 12" long, and since is it totally hand held, it can go as deep as needed. I bought this from Grizzly for $100 including an assortment of bits. Very handy for any small jobs of concrete drilling and/or breaking, but I would'nt take on a major demolition project with it. There are similar units available for rent. You really don't want/need a true jack hammer.

[firstcut]

Thanks, Gary, and Rick.

I will get er done mid week, attacking the slab, I'll report back on this one.

[firstcut]

Rented Milwaukee HammerDrill . With some patience, Carved out a nice channel to move drain. Was not nearly as bad as dreamed.

Should I dig down and remove old P-trap, and place under new waste location, Or can I just run my 1-1/2 pvc to old location and old P-trap, if it is there... I'm already about a foot under the slab at old drain, no sign of P trap, how deep is it usually?

[firstcut]

The old tub supply lines, 1/2 in copper to shutoffs, then 3/8 copper to faucets. Is 3/8 a good choice, seems small to me for filling a tub.

[hj]

The "P" trap is at the bottom of the vertical pipe however far down it is. You need to move the trap over to a point under the tub drain, and it has to remain at its present depth. You cannot raise it to make it easier to install the pipe. 1/2" copper all the way to the tub valves. the 3/8" lines must have been a handyman's way of making an easy connection.

[firstcut]

Thanks HJ !

[firstcut]

Since I am moving the P Trap and need to keep it at same height in new position.... I will need to run 2" pipe to new location, was planning on slope for that run, but then new P Trap would be higher than the old location. My horizontal run will be about 36 ".

OK for P Trap to be about 1 inch higher than old one?