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Thread: Sewage Basin

  1. #1

    Default Sewage Basin

    I am installing a basement bathroom. The builder had installed a sewage basin for me when he built the house. The shower drain, toilet and sink feed into 1 pipe that feeds into the basin. The pipe extend about 2/3 of the way into the basin.

    Should I cut the pipe as close to the side of the basin as possible or how far should it extend into the basin?

    Also, I will be running a 2" vent and 2" waste pipe out of the basin. I can not find a place to but the seals I need for the 2" pipes and the electrical seal. Any suggestions?

    Thanks, Gary

  2. #2

    Default

    2/3 penetration should be ok - as long as it's not so close to the opposing basin wall as to inhibit flow.

    Also, if I understand yr second question, you're saying you don't know how the vent and elec cords are sealed to the basin. The lid should have 2 x 2" holes (one for discharge and one for vent) and 1 x 3/4" hole for the cords. The lid should contain rubber grommets/gaskets that make the seal. Your builder might have put a totally sealed lid on it since it was going to lie idle.

    You might just need a new lid ($40) from any home center. It comes with all screws and gaskets.

  3. #3

    Default

    Thanks for the help.

    Is there a reason I don't want to cut the inlet pipe close to where it comes into the basin?

    How far into the basin does the vent pipe need to go?

    The basin cover the builder installed just has the 2 - 2" opening and the 1&3/4" electrical opening open with no seals. Would all basin covers have the screw downs in the same place?

    Thanks, Gary

  4. #4

    Default

    If the inlet is obstructing the discharge then go ahead and cut it. There's no reason it needs to project any further into the tank than a couple inches.

    The original lid should have had gaskets. They should be standard. If you don't want to get a new lid, you can buy gaskets at any HD or from plumbing supplier. Or, if the air space isn't that big, you can use rope caulk.

    If you do decide to get a new basin, then if the screw holes don't line up, just drill new ones. Airtight foam insulation is used between the lid and basin lips anyway, so the old holes will simply go unused and will not pose a problem.

    I just installed one of these in my basement, and instead of screwing, I used removable weather sealing caulk around the lip.

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