Toto tank wobbly

I installed a Toto and I'm scared to turn the tank nuts to the point that allows the tank to set on the base so it doesn't wobble. I feel like the tank SHOULD set on the base, but I worry that is too much stress on the floor of the tank at the bolts.

You always hear, "Be careful not to tighten too much" but how much is too much?

Also, the floor in my bathrom is ceramic tile. The guy that did it was NOT worried about keeping it level by the toilet. I set the toilet in place and was amazed at how high off the floor it was in the back. Much worse than the one being replaced (I equate this to the added contact points inside the perimeter of the base).

I turned it upside down and layed a healthy bead of bathroom caulk on the contact edge of. I let it set a little bit, then installed the tank. I then shot more around the bottom of the tank, cleaned up the excess, shoved a few plastic shims where they seemed to be needed, and let it sit.

The tank feels 100% solid when my 220 lbs has a seat on it. I do worry that, due to the additional contact points within the perimeter of the base edge, maybe there is more stress on some parts of the base than others.

If the toilet doesn't budge one bit, should I just stop worrying?

The term "tank" is usually applied to the part of the toilet above and behind the toilet bowl and hold the water for the next flush. If I read your comments correctly, you are saying the toilet base (bowl) did not set level. This could be the result of an uneven or non-level floor causing the flange to be not level, it also could be the toilet was not seated properly in the wax ring. If the flange is level and flush on the floor, the toilet should set the same way. If this is not the case, then the proper procedure is to shim the toilet as needed to give it support where it does not contact the floor. The flange bolts do not have to be torqued down with a huge wrench, just snugged down to hold the toilet in position and to keep it from rocking. Caulking is done after the toilet is set and bolted down. It is not to support the toilet, just to cover gaps left by shimming and to keep water from getting under the toilet. (It's not to keep water from getting out from under the toilet) Some local inspectors require caulking all the way around, others want the back section left uncaulked. It sounds like you did things a bit out of order, but if the toilet is setting level and is solid, it should be just fine.

Thanks, Gary. You did understand me correctly. That was a two-part question. My tank issues did refer to the actual tank.

As far as the base and the floor, I had to do this with the previous toilet too, but that one simply was not so bad. Then again, that one did not have any floor contact points other than the outer edge of the base. Because the Toto has a couple of ribs just behind the trap opening, I thinkt hey may be making contact with the floor and making the back edge higher.

I realize I did things out of order, but there are shims and it does feel 100% solid.

Sometimes is a good idea to set the toilet over the flange without wax to see how well it drops over.

A wax with horn, can keep the toilet lifted too high in some cases.

Eh, it's done LOL!! I ain't going back.

I did set it in place without the ring. The back edge was high. I knew it would be from the way the other toilet did it. This one was just a little higher.

The one thing that lends to to just forget about it at this point is that the front is on solid floor. So, the end that gets all the business is planted well. Plus, it looks good all the way back to the base bolts. Its only after that where the floor dips down.

I think its done.

I haven't tested the toilet yet. I'm hoping that galzed trap and Gmax flush is all it's said to be.

Thanks for the great advice and effort you all put in here!!