Constant water pressure issues

[PAberts]

Hi, I am new to this forum and hope you will have some good ideas.

Let me say right from the start, I am new to having a well. Just moved into my home about a year ago. I am on a learning curve on how my well system works. The house was built in 1989. The well is 250 ft deep, with a 60 gallon/minute pump. (I think)

We had a standard hot water heater that was quickly running out of hot water when we took showers. So being the techy type of guy that I am, I did my research and figured I needed a tankless hot water heater. After going through all the hassles of getting the extra power ran; the tankless unit researched and bought; ( I bought a SETS model 240 Tankless), and installed, I quickly found another problem. The water pressure does not stay constant enough for the tankless to provide constant hot water. Since it heats the water depending on the flow, I am quickly reminded of the showers I had to take when I was in the Navy on a ship. Depending on how the ship was leaning, I either got scalding hot water, or freezing cold water.

I have believe I need something called a flow regulator, so the pressure stays constant. The question is, where should it be installed? On the output of my pressure tank? Is this the only solution?

Is it also possible that the problem might be sediment in my pressure tank that has accumulated over the years?

Thanks in advance.

Paul

[speedbump]

Your problem is not uncommon from what I have heard.

The pressure regulator will only work if the pressure in front of it is constant also. This means the pump will not be running when you first turn on the water. So the pressure in the tank is going to go down to the on setting of the pump. Once this happens, the pump will try to fill the tank again and will cycle off against a shower in most systems. You may consider a Smart Tee or a Cycle Stop Valve instead of your standard tank tee. This will keep the tank and pressure switch isolated while the pump is on and provide constant pressure once the pump is running. You can also go with a very small pressure tank with the Smart Tee so you will only have to run a 1/2 gallon of water or less to get the pump to come on.

bob...

[PAberts]

Ok, I have just done some research and I think I know what each one does. It appears the way to keep my pressure the most constant would be the smart tee. The CSV just keeps the pump running all the time and would push more water through the system. With a tankless, I don't think that is what I want. The higher the flow of water through the system results in a less efficient heating effect.

Can the Smart Tee be installed on most bladder systems, or will I have to buy the whole new system which from what I have found out runs about $350 for a small one.

Paul

[speedbump]

You can use the Smart Tee or CSV with any size tank. The down side is, the bigger the tank, the longer it takes for the pump to come on and the Smart Tee to start working. For my Smart Tee and the little JR-6 tank your looking at $192.24 plus shipping.

bob...

[Bob NH]

You should confirm what you have for a pump. A 60 GPM pump in a residence would be VERY unusual and many "smart tee" type systems might have a problem with it.

Find the model number or find the pressure/flow characteristics before you try to match it with any kind of control system.

If you can't find the specs on the pump, you should be able to do a flow test. If it really is a 60 GPM pump, you would get a full stream from an unrestricted 3/4" iron pipe at 36 ft/second that would shoot about 20 ft straight up in the air. Or you could fill a barrel with water and time it to measure the flow.

A flow test should include just the pump flow with nothing from the pressure tank.

[speedbump]

I missed that part on the 60gpm pump. Of coarse that would be major kill for a home. The Smart Tee will only work up to 30 gpm. So if 60 gpm is the case, your stuck with a pricey CSV.

bob...

[PAberts]

As I said, I am new to all this. The information I got from the county about my well is as follows:

Well depth - 145 ft
Pump is a 1/2 hp, rpm - 3450 and they say it pumps at 60 gal/min after 7 hours, what ever that means.

As it turns out my pressure tank I believe might be the start of my problem. It is a very small Amtrol model wx202. I believe it is only a 20 gallon tank with an outflow of about 8 gallons when the tank is set to 30-50. (Which mine is)

I am currently in the process of upgrading that tank. If nothing else, it will cut down on the cycles of my pump. If that does not resolve the problem, I might be contacting you about your smart tee.

Paul

[speedbump]

What they are saying is that the well produces 60 gpm not the pump. They test pumped the well after drilling it to acquire that info.

A 1/2hp sub will pump around 15 gpm or less depending on your water level etc.

The Smart tee would work great with that pump and tank. If the tank is still in good shape, just add the Smart Tee.

bob...

[PAberts]

So say that your smart tee will connect to any pressure tank? It looks like that is the way I am going to go. How can get one of your tees?

Paul

[speedbump]

You can buy one from my shopping cart here

bob...

[nickyg]

PAberts I have a very similar problem in my new home. I looked into the smart tee and posted some questions about a week ago. Please let me know what kind of results you get from the Tee. It will really help me with my decision to buy one or not?? Also did you change your tank pressure up from 30/50? Let me know how that goes and what benifits you actually see in your house. Thanks for you reply in advance.

Nick

[PAberts]

No I haven't raised it up from 30/50. I wasn't really sure if it would fix the problem.

I was in the process of having some people come out to have my tank replaced but as soon as they took one look at configuration of the current tank, the type of pipes being used and how little room there was, they became very reluctant. Coming out of the tee from the pressure tank I have a type of flex pipe that needs to be crimped. They don't even make this type any longer and then didn't have the right tools.

More than likely I am going to have to rely on an old friend of mine, one of those "Jack of all trades" to help me with this.

I will keep you posted as to the first long hot shower I get to take.

Paul

[Gary Slusser]

If you mean PB tubing, they can use QEST compression fittings (from Lowe's and other hardware stores like Ace), they don't need crimpers.

Previously you, or the OP if not you, said... "The CSV just keeps the pump running all the time and would push more water through the system. With a tankless, I don't think that is what I want. The higher the flow of water through the system results in a less efficient heating effect.". Both the Smart Tee and CSVs only supply the volume of water you are using at the pressure settings on the switch.