Bathtub Install Question

Hello;

I'd like to ask a question of you all in hopes of figuring out how to tackle this situation.

To state my issue very simple I'm installing a bathtub which is 60" into a bathroom who's width is 61" (stud to stud). The design of the tub is meant to go stud to stud expecting the studs to be 60" apart. Now the installation manual says the tiling flange on the tub is to be predrilled and fastened flush to the studs which sets up the drywall to come down to the first bevel of the flange and then allows tile to come down over the 2nd bevel making the tile flush with the tub.

I can't for the life of me figure out means of addressing this 1" difference so any tips, tricks or suggestions would be most appreciated!

Many thanks for your time.

Oh, incase this would help the tub is an acrylic tub with a built in apron.

Can't you install 1-by blocking on one stud wall to fill the 'gap'? Since "1-by" is actually 3/4, you'd have a neat 1/4" for wiggle room when you position, and then you could shim the difference after it's in. Of course, you'd have to cover the exposed 1x edge with trim. If you feel it'll look 'off balance', then you could build up all opposing wall stud faces with 1/2" blocking (ripped from plywood). This would give you a smaller and symmetrical trim lip.

Or am I misunderstanding the situation?

I hear you, the only thing with that solution that has me scratching my head a bit is how to finish the lip that would be created with the concrete board and then tile. If you take a look at the installation manual...

http://www.aciflex.com/images/i_pdf/41_BainAciflex-022105.pdf

...on page 12 fig. 3B you'll see how the tiling flange expects the drywall to come down and but up against the top of it. I'm thinking I'm going to have to have a 1" ledge at the back of the tub (since the drainage is already in place roughed in to the front of the tub) and figure out some way to finish that ledge off. I was hoping to not have a ledge other than that of the tub itself since this will also be a shower. But hey...gotta play the cards dealt to me I guess.

Thanks for your input prashster.

I guess I'm a tad confused.

If you put 1" blocking along one stud wall, say 1x2 strips down the whole length of the stud face, your opening will be 60" just like you want. If you haven't finished the wall outside your tub area, then great, the 1x face will be covered with a 1" larger piece of drywall you would have otherwise installed. If that wall is finished, though, you'll have to find a way to finish that edge.

You Can Always Do A 1/4" Shim On Both Walls And Still Have Some Wiggle Room For The Tub, Then Just Butt The Cbu Up Against The Existing Sheet Rock And Feather It In With Joint Compound , The Difference Is Minimal At That Point.
I Just Had The Same Problem With My Tub And Walls And It Came Out Ok.

ledge

You do not 'finish off" that ledge. It is the edge/back of the tub and is meant to be exposed.

How 'bout you shove the tub to the faucet end tight, Put furring strips on the other end all the way to the floor. If your tub is 30" wide,make the new furred wall 31"-34" wide. Tile board the whole thing . You now have a lip that is 1.25" wide.... Run a piece of tile on that outside corner floor to ceiling ,cap the other side and you now have a nice,watertight ,finished look .

LUCK,
Cal

like cal said, pad 1 end but pad that whole wall. that way there isnt a bump in the wall. it will be easier to pad the whole wall than do a tile return.

Just to update the situation and close off the topic. Once the tub was installed the gap ended up being 1/2" on the button. So I ripped some 1/2" ply and strapped the entire wall. Drywall lines up perfectly with the tiling flange as per directions. Many thanks for the ideas.