I want to build wooden baseboard covers. Drawbacks?Are metal designed to throw heat?

Users who are viewing this thread

CanOfWorms

Member
Messages
193
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Location
New Jersey
I want to build wood radiator covers.
There are beat up metal ones there.
Replacing them they will still look kinda cruddy.
I was thinking that the metal ones are curved inside and may throw heat better.

What say you?
wooden covers.jpg
 

Dana

In the trades
Messages
7,889
Reaction score
509
Points
113
Location
01609
The crummy sheet metal baseboards housing fin-tube are designed to promote convective heat transfer, and are primarily convectors, not radiators, though low double-digit percentage of the heat transfer is radiated when operated at a high temperature.

Cast-iron baseboards are more radiator than convector, though at least a double-digit percentage of the heat transfer is via convection, except at low temperature.

Assuming yours are fin-tube convectors you need a panel close to the sides of the fins to direct the air flow through the fins, with enough vertical to that air-channel box to give it some stack-effect to work with. The taller you make the stack, the more reliable the heat transfer is at lower water temperatures. Larger fin-tube convectors are typically 20-30" tall, with an open space below, and grille openings only at the top:

865_fullimage_Product_Conv_2.jpg


The enclosure in your picture would not be nearly as effective, since the fins are open to air flow at the sides, which cuts into the convective forces need to keep air moving through the fins. Making the grille openings only at the top 2" of the sides, or on the currently flat top would work. Keeping flat side of the enclosure no more than 1/4" away from the edges of the fins also reduces the amount of bypassing air, enhancing convection. If you don't mind the extra height, making it 12-16" tall instead of the typical 8-10" would also improve performance, as long as you keep the cross section of the exit-air openings at the top the same, and extend just the flat air-ducting sides.
 

CanOfWorms

Member
Messages
193
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Location
New Jersey
So what you are saying is that the internal shape of the cover does not matter as much at the venting at the top being 2" high and the height being 12" - 16".
I'm thinking the bottom gap should be 2" also. I think I can make this pretty easy with 1x4 x 12 on the ends. 1x5 on the top and a 1x8 in the middle raised 2" from floor and 2" gap from the top.
Now I just need to make sturdy.
 

CanOfWorms

Member
Messages
193
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Location
New Jersey
image.jpgSo I slapped this together.
The only problem is that the slats are touching the face board and keeping the cover from going flush to the wall. I need to use a wider board on the side and fix it to the wall.
To me this already looks 10 times better than the metal ones and was super easy.
Unless, of course, there is some other problem I don't see.
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg
 

CanOfWorms

Member
Messages
193
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Location
New Jersey
So, If I make it only 9" High will that drastically decrease it's efficiency?

Please take a look at my work below. I am obviously not a cabinet maker.

Thank you
The crummy sheet metal baseboards housing fin-tube are designed to promote convective heat transfer, and are primarily convectors, not radiators, though low double-digit percentage of the heat transfer is radiated when operated at a high temperature.

Cast-iron baseboards are more radiator than convector, though at least a double-digit percentage of the heat transfer is via convection, except at low temperature.

Assuming yours are fin-tube convectors you need a panel close to the sides of the fins to direct the air flow through the fins, with enough vertical to that air-channel box to give it some stack-effect to work with. The taller you make the stack, the more reliable the heat transfer is at lower water temperatures. Larger fin-tube convectors are typically 20-30" tall, with an open space below, and grille openings only at the top:

865_fullimage_Product_Conv_2.jpg


The enclosure in your picture would not be nearly as effective, since the fins are open to air flow at the sides, which cuts into the convective forces need to keep air moving through the fins. Making the grille openings only at the top 2" of the sides, or on the currently flat top would work. Keeping flat side of the enclosure no more than 1/4" away from the edges of the fins also reduces the amount of bypassing air, enhancing convection. If you don't mind the extra height, making it 12-16" tall instead of the typical 8-10" would also improve performance, as long as you keep the cross section of the exit-air openings at the top the same, and extend just the flat air-ducting sides.
 

jayb21

New Member
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
maine
Trying to do the same, how's it going?

I've also done a TON of research and want to do the same thing. How's it going? I've read about putting some insulation and using mesh on the front, but then plenty of people don't.

Any ideas?

View attachment 24347So I slapped this together.
The only problem is that the slats are touching the face board and keeping the cover from going flush to the wall. I need to use a wider board on the side and fix it to the wall.
To me this already looks 10 times better than the metal ones and was super easy.
Unless, of course, there is some other problem I don't see.
View attachment 24347
View attachment 24347
View attachment 24348
 

Dana

In the trades
Messages
7,889
Reaction score
509
Points
113
Location
01609
On baseboards that are on exterior walls if you made the wall side with 1/4" plywood and 1/2-3/4" foil-faced rigid polyiso (Thermax) you'd get a measurable uptick in efficiency. (Steel brackets can hold up the top plate.)

While going higher than 9" would improve heat transfer, 9" would probably be good enough to heat the room, given the typical levels of oversizing on these systems. Having the fins nearer the lower edge of your facia board will work slightly better than having it at the very top, but either way it'll work.

Looks like nice wood- too nice to be using between the fins & wall!
 

CanOfWorms

Member
Messages
193
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Location
New Jersey
Thank you. for now I just need to get them done, but will revisit them when it gets cold.
Also there isn't enough clearance between the wall and fins for that. But I will figure something out.
I actually picked through all the #2 at the big orange store for the good ones. Made a huge mess.
I need to add little 2" blocks along above and below the center piece to support the cap when the little kids walk on it.
The moment they saw them they both immediately walked along them.
 

CanOfWorms

Member
Messages
193
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Location
New Jersey
I've also done a TON of research and want to do the same thing. How's it going? I've read about putting some insulation and using mesh on the front, but then plenty of people don't.

Any ideas?

Frankly I'm not into the mesh because it is expensive, will only get dented and reminds me of a confessional.
I did almost all of them in my house and they look really good.
I will post some pics and you will see.
I used 1x4 or 1x6 on the sides 1x6 on the front and 1x5 as the cap 1x2 along the back. 2" gap above and below the front.
As far as insulation, I'm going to play it by ear.
If you don't have a nail gun get one or rent one. Use 1 1/2 inch trim nails and wood glue. I scuff the area to be glued and then wet the area so the glue sucks into the wood.
Once they are dry they are furniture solid.
I see the orange store has a Ryobi battery one that I am going to check out.
 

CanOfWorms

Member
Messages
193
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Location
New Jersey
So this is one pic showing the end of the base board cover along with the new craftsman style window and door trim.
I will post some of the more complex and of course some complete pictures in a few.
trim base.jpeg
 

piano08man

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Colorado
Thanks for the suggestion here. I ended up doing two of these last night. It worked perfectly! I used a 1x6 for the top and front boards, and shaved a 1x6 down to a 1x5 for the sides. my heaters are a little too far away from the wall for a 1x4 to work. I kept my height to 9 inches (slightly taller than the original aluminum) to make them less obtrusive. I used a piece of 1x2 MDF to center the cover and anchor it to the wall. Here's a picture of the completed cover.

2014-08-07 00.00.14.jpg
 

Julia L.

New Member
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Missouri
@piano08man I have a question for you! We have not bought it yet but my husband and I are looking at a house that has hot water baseboard heat (hydronic?) and I am wondering about covers. I want to know in advance if there is anything I do since many of the houses we've seen have had that heating option and I HATE the look of them. I like the look of wood covers and I definitely cannot afford all these websites that offer covers.

My questions are: Do you have the hot water baseboard heat too and this would work fine for it?
How hard was it to do? It looks like a somewhat simple enough My husband is not a handyman and I am definitely no handywoman. However, I am a bit of a DIYer. Also, how much did it end up costing you if you don't mind me asking? Do you have any detailed directions on materials, how to do it, etc that you would be willing to share?

Thanks!
 

piano08man

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Colorado
Hi, Julia! Sorry for the delayed response. I was just following up here for a friend who wants to do the same thing. If you bought the house and actually want to tackle this project, then yes, it's totally worth it. I hate the older heater covers too and my solution is the cheapest, most aesthetically pleasing way I found to do it. With the right tools, I would say this project is a medium difficulty for a beginning.

I spent about $50 for wood per heater. They took me about an hour each to measure, cut, and paint. Depending on the length of your heaters, you could be spending more than that for the materials.

Tools:
Table saw for the cutting
Nail gun and compressor (Could be done by hand, but that's way more difficult and won't look as nice)

Materials:
I used all 1x6s pine pieces for these. That would probably work for you too.
Wood Glue
Paint of your choosing.

Basics:
Measure the length of your heater and add a few inches to each side (for clearance of the plumbing itself). The heaters need a minimum of 9 inches inside height. That's to get the air to actually move and increase the efficiency of the heaters. If you can go a little taller than that, I'd do it. Then, take a look at the picture above and adapt your length to the look of my heater cover. You'll probably want to draw a diagram and put measurements on there so you can see exactly what you'll be cutting.

I cut the side panels/legs at 9-inches in height so the inside measure was the minimum 9-inch requirement. I also took an inch off the width to make them 1x5s. The actual front panel (a 1x6 piece) should be the length of your heater, plus a couple inches on each side for clearance. The top panel panel should be a few inches longer than the front panel (6-ish total, 3-inch overhang on each end) if you like the overhang look, like my the picture above. From there, it's just cut, assemble and paint. Just make sure you have a good visual of the end result before you start cutting. Also, use some wood glue on all of your joints to improve the rigidity. These are in my kid's room, so I wanted to make them durable.
 

KevinPrz

New Member
Messages
18
Reaction score
1
Points
3
Location
New York
looking good- I want to cover a couple radiators with a box... this is giving me some motivation.
 

CanOfWorms

Member
Messages
193
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Location
New Jersey
I second this but have a few comments.
++ on the nail gun. Home dopey sells a ryobi 18guage brad nailer that works very well and shoots 2" nails very well. If no nail gun try finishing screws they are thinner and will split the wood less.
Also sand and glue the joints. I keep a wet towel to dampen the points of contact.
Lastly be sure to nail the top down. Solid pine will Warp with heat if not secured. I repeat it WILL WARP.
Plywood will not warp and if you finish the plywood the edge looks very cool.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    76.4 KB · Views: 17,814

Jolene

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Springfield, Missouri
Hi, Julia! Sorry for the delayed response. I was just following up here for a friend who wants to do the same thing. If you bought the house and actually want to tackle this project, then yes, it's totally worth it. I hate the older heater covers too and my solution is the cheapest, most aesthetically pleasing way I found to do it. With the right tools, I would say this project is a medium difficulty for a beginning.

I spent about $50 for wood per heater. They took me about an hour each to measure, cut, and paint. Depending on the length of your heaters, you could be spending more than that for the materials.

Tools:
Table saw for the cutting
Nail gun and compressor (Could be done by hand, but that's way more difficult and won't look as nice)

Materials:
I used all 1x6s pine pieces for these. That would probably work for you too.
Wood Glue
Paint of your choosing.

Basics:
Measure the length of your heater and add a few inches to each side (for clearance of the plumbing itself). The heaters need a minimum of 9 inches inside height. That's to get the air to actually move and increase the efficiency of the heaters. If you can go a little taller than that, I'd do it. Then, take a look at the picture above and adapt your length to the look of my heater cover. You'll probably want to draw a diagram and put measurements on there so you can see exactly what you'll be cutting.

I cut the side panels/legs at 9-inches in height so the inside measure was the minimum 9-inch requirement. I also took an inch off the width to make them 1x5s. The actual front panel (a 1x6 piece) should be the length of your heater, plus a couple inches on each side for clearance. The top panel panel should be a few inches longer than the front panel (6-ish total, 3-inch overhang on each end) if you like the overhang look, like my the picture above. From there, it's just cut, assemble and paint. Just make sure you have a good visual of the end result before you start cutting. Also, use some wood glue on all of your joints to improve the rigidity. These are in my kid's room, so I wanted to make them durable.
 

Jolene

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Springfield, Missouri
The house I bought also has the water baseboard heaters. Will your design allow for bleeding the lines? The man who put them in in the 50s also had a plumbing company. Each room is separate instead of continuous setup. He was the owner of the house at the time.
 

joelc73

New Member
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
West Sayville, New York

Hi guys,

I'm working on the same style covers today but have a quick question. Does the piece of wood that is against the wall and behind the fins serve a purpose in terms of the heating/convection? Or is it just a nailing surface? Just thinking through some design options.

In other words, could I just use a 1x2 at the top against the wall and attach the 1x6 cover to that versus having a taller piece that extends from the cover to the floor?

Thanks in advance!
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks