Which Fleck? And RO debate...

I thought I'd decided on the 5600sxt metered 48,000 grain softener with 5600 timered carbon based on a conversation in a different forum. But looking here it seems the 7000 is more recommended? So what's the difference and why the preference? If I were to go with 7000, would I do it for both softener and carbon? 7000sxt for softener and 7000 for carbon? I'm so confused! They had also recommend I get the stainless steel bypass, whereas with the 5700sxt on the site I'm ordering from only offers Noryl. Reasoning for that? Lastly, how much drain tubing do I need to order?

Also, I'm concerned about the sodium content of softened water, but RO systems seem debatable. Would getting one that adds minerals back in make it more desirable/less debatable? If so, which specific system should I get?

Unfortunately there is a lot of bad advice on the web and even on this forum.

The 7000SXT is the same as the 7000. The SXT refers to the electronics. It is a fairly powerful and easily adjusted programming design. There is also a NXT and XTR which offer more power... but it is overkill for most.

The 5600SXT is an excellent valve but it has its own unique design flaws and problems. Assuming you have a normal size house, you will be very happy with either uni. The 7000 is much larger, higher flow rates, lower pressure drops, etc.

Stainless bypass... noryl bypass... noryl is preferred by most, both are fine. The 7000 is only available in the noryl high flow design.

Drain tubing? You need enough to run the waste to the drain.

RO is great, adding a remineraliztion filter is also fine. RO adds a nice barrier to most contaminants, so if you should have a failure of some type, the RO offers a good amount of protection.

No real debate except for the guys online selling alternatives to RO. Just like the companies selling alternatives to softening.

Just because you read it online does not make it true.

I heard the 7000 had a lot of problems. But then there was a recall maybe? So are those fixed? I think the other people were sticking with 5600 because it has a nice long reputation of minimal issues. But maybe the 7000 is better now? If you were to choose between the two, which would you choose (and if the 7000, the SXT or non-SXT version)? Also, which would you put on the carbon?

And do you have any RO system recommendations? Preferably cheap to replace filters. The concerns I'm reading with RO is that it can be corrosive to plumbing or something and acidic (which we already have teeth problems due to acidy stuff, so I'd like to avoid that). But maybe if we can remineralize/change ph of water that would be okay.

The 5600, 5600SXT, Clack, 2510, etc. have all had problems over the years. The 7000 has been out for over a decade, it did have a recall of one batch last year due to a potential leaking o-ring that could cause extra salt usage.

The main problem people have with it is that it is different than the 5600, the best selling and most copied valve on the market for the past 30 years. The 7000 has massive flow rate and application advantages over the 5600 and many other valves. That being said, the 5600 series is excellent for most small to medium residential applications. I prefer the 7000 and have one of the original pre-release prototypes in my house. It has been updated from the original SE to the SXT, and recently with the XTR and now the NXT board.

Honestly, you will be fine with either one. Both are excellent valves. For commercial applications, most of the major companies use the 7000 for their single tank softener applications for a multitude of reasons.

RO recommendations, sadly, most companies claim made in USA, most are made in China. I will be doing a video review on "MADE IN USA" RO systems next month. We will be buying several units and tearing them down to show that many of these units don't include a single made in USA part and they are assembled in Taiwan or China. This is a major problem in this industry and has gone unchecked for too long.

Wait a few weeks for this to happen, you may be surprised.

RO water is technically not acidic, it may have the pH reduced from where it started, this does not always equate to acidic. And acidic... is 6.9 really an issue? Beer, OJ, Gatorade, etc are all far more acidic than RO water. Again, the massive amount of misinformation that is available online by companies trying to sell their "unique" garbage is staggering. A cheap and simple calcium filter will typically neutralize the RO water if it is acidic, but this is not a real concern. In my opinion, a very small calcite filter makes the water taste a little better, but that is my personal opinion. My wife prefers the non remin water.

Corrosive to plumbing... again, very poorly explained by most companies who are pushing alternatives or by those who don't understand basic water principals. And... the small RO system runs through poly tubing, not the whole house. A whole house RO can be needed on a rare occasion, but it is usually installed in people houses who read online about how great RO water is... lol.

Is there a way to test my water after installing the softener to test the sodium content? Also, can you give recommendations on which RO system to order? I would prefer to be able to add a mineral/pH cartridge. Thanks!

Also, would you put the 7000 on the carbon also? And our water line is 3/4". Is that okay with a 7000?

You can do a sodium test, but it can also be calculated based on the hardness.
RO reminn is fine, a siple calcite filter is common and inexpensive.

RO systems to order? I will sen you a PM on that. Most of the RO systems are junk, made out of low end components. I know of a couple that are actually made in the USA with USA components that are very good quality, and only a few dollars more than the low end junk equipment.

7000 on a 3/4" line is fine. The 7000 on carbon is fine. Fleck 7000SXT has 3/4" connectors available in both threaded and sweat.