copper stub ells into shower valve

Didymus21 · Mar 26, 2014

Had extra propex copper stubs. Does this seem like a reasonable use of them? Anyone see a problem with this? My other thought was to solder a propex Fitting to a 90 deg street, or something to that effect.

Picture is below.

Didymus21 · Mar 26, 2014

It'd probably help if I attached the picture.

Sponsor · 2022-01-29T12:20:58-0800

SHR · Mar 26, 2014

Expensive, but a great idea! Those will work good and help your install look great.

You soldered all of your joints to the rough-in valve so neatly that I can not even see any solder around the joint. Boy, you are good.

Terry · Mar 26, 2014

That works for me!

Didymus21 · Mar 26, 2014

SHR said:
You soldered all of your joints to the rough-in valve so neatly that I can not even see any solder around the joint. Boy, you are good.

Oh boy, wish I could accept that compliment! I actually haven't soldered anything yet...wanted to make sure it was a sound idea first. Thanks for the feedback.

Gary Swart · Mar 26, 2014

I realize you had those ells on hand, so good idea to use them. Most of us just use short nipples, threaded adapter, and regular elbows. They aren't pretty, but hidden behind walls so pretty really doesn't count.

hj · Mar 27, 2014

quote; Most of us just use short nipples, threaded adapter, and regular elbows.

I guess I am NOT 'most of us', because I would NEVER use a threaded connection when the valve has sweat joint capability. I was going to comment that there might not be enough solder on the joints to have made a good seal, until you stated that they were not soldered yet.

SHR · Mar 27, 2014

I kinda figured that but could not resist the comment. That should end up being a nice install.

I also never use threaded adaptors anymore on shower valves with solder connections available. When asked, most people I talk to about using the threaded adaptors say they use them in order to make the valve easier to remove if necessary. But in order to remove the threaded connections you still have to cut the copper...so nothing gained by the adaptors except more potential for leaks. As long as all plastic parts are removed from the rough-in valve it is just a really big fitting.

Gary Swart · Mar 27, 2014

Not to start a war on this, and I certainly yield to HJ's experience and expertise, but I use the threaded adapters into valve bodies to avoid possible damage to the valve. Now, I'm a DIY and while I have never had a solder joint fail, I do not rate myself anywhere near a professional, and perhaps I'm being overly concerned about this. So, by all means if you are comfortable with soldering the pipe into the valve, do it.

Didymus21 · Mar 27, 2014

Terry said:
That works for me!

I do have one concern. The ells have a decent amount of play in the valve, while the vertical shower head portion does not. Do I need to be concerned about that? I know soldering will fill the gaps and tighten the joint, but would you consider that a weakened joint?

I think I cut the ells too short, and due to the bend, I'm entering the smaller diameter part of the stub. I'd really appreciate feedback on this.

If need be, I wouldn't hesitate to scrap them and re-do it.

DaveHo · Mar 28, 2014

That's the exact configuration I used for my shower valves. I didn't trim the Propex ells & don't recall them feeling loose in the rough in body. They've been in service for more than a year now. No issues. You using propane or MAPP? I have a MAPP torch & it still took a bit of time to get the valve body hot enough to sweat properly. I don't think I'd try it with propane.

Didymus21 · Mar 28, 2014

[video=youtube;sWQTHaHuods]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWQTHaHuods&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/video]

Here's a video showing what I mean.

BobL43 · Mar 28, 2014

Didymus21 said:
[video=youtube;sWQTHaHuods]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWQTHaHuods&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/video]

Here's a video showing what I mean.

Can't view it, as it seems to be in your "private" Youtube folder

Didymus21 · Mar 28, 2014

BobL43 said:
Can't view it, as it seems to be in your "private" Youtube folder

Should be fixed, sorry.

DaveHo · Mar 28, 2014

That looks extremely loose. Do you still have the pieces you cut off? How much play do those have? How much play in the shower head pipe?

Didymus21 · Mar 28, 2014

DaveHo said:
That looks extremely loose. Do you still have the pieces you cut off? How much play do those have? How much play in the shower head pipe?

I do still have the pieces I cut off and when inserted they don't have nearly as much play. The shower head pipe has little to none.

I think I probably blew it on those and will need to cut new pipe. I may be able to reuse them for a fixture if there is enough tip to still go through some drywall. Oh well, lesson learned.

BobL43 · Mar 28, 2014

Didymus21 said:
I do still have the pieces I cut off and when inserted they don't have nearly as much play. The shower head pipe has little to none.

I think I probably blew it on those and will need to cut new pipe. I may be able to reuse them for a fixture if there is enough tip to still go through some drywall. Oh well, lesson learned.

yup, live and learn; we all do it one time or another. repeat, repeat.............

Jadnashua · Mar 28, 2014

You might try the v-shaped inside pipe shaping bit on most pipe cutters...it may reform the end enough to give you a tighter fit.

Didymus21 · Mar 28, 2014

Good suggestion, I tried and it didn't make much of a difference. I ended up just buying two street 90's and a male fitting that will couple the 90's with my propex lines. Much better joint!

Yngwie_69 · Mar 29, 2014

that is loose, but your joints look pro, i dont think you will ever have a problem, it will def last till next reno. If u cleaned flux ur good. but all pipe that is bend like that thins the copper faster cause of streching

copper stub ells into shower valve

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