Adjusting Water Pressure on a pressure reducing valve. PRV

Id you had more space between the valves and the wall, spinning them out would have been possible.
It looks easier to cut behind the 90's, extend out and replace the entire assembly. This way you can just glue it up and push it on.

A ball valve would be nice there.

Your neighber could have a PRV buried underground. I don't like them there, but I sometimes find them there. Not so bad if they are at the meter and boxed for access.

Thanks Terry. Current PRV is a WATTS 25AUB 3/4". Do you recommend I go with the same make/model? A Google search returns a lot of hits for a WATTS 25AUB-Z3 (~$80). Looks like it comes with a number of available connections including CPVC:

http://www.****.com/itm/Watts-25AUB...580?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19e9a4f5e4
The Series 25AUB-Z3 is available with a variety of end connections types including: threaded, solder, PEX, quick-connect and CPVC with both union and double union connections. The Watts Series 25AUB-Z3 has an adjustable pressure range and is serviceable in-line which makes the product much easier to fix then other pressure reducing valves. Maximum Working Pressure: 300psi (21 bar), Adjustable Reduced Pressure Range: 25 to 75psi (172 to 517 kPa), Standard Pressure Setting: 50psi (344kPa).

LifeIsGood524

Neighbor's PRV is not in the box with the meter. Could be in the ground where the water line enters the crawl space.

The Watts 25AUB is good.
There's not much to a PRV though. I'm starting to see more double union PRV's and it seems like a good idea. If you can pick up one later, and they haven't changed the measurements, it could make for a quick swap.

FWIW, the plumbing doesn't have to go in a nice straight line from the left to the right...you can make a bigger U-shape to give you a little more room to work...just support the pipe properly.

Because of the delay caused by the time for the cement to harden, I would not cut anything. It looks like you have enough room to screw on a ball valve, and if you get double unions for the new PRV, it will NOT have to spin to insert it. Take the existing PRV and valve apart to make them small enough to unscrew.

hj said:

Because of the delay caused by the time for the cement to harden, I would not cut anything. It looks like you have enough room to screw on a ball valve, and if you get double unions for the new PRV, it will NOT have to spin to insert it. Take the existing PRV and valve apart to make them small enough to unscrew.

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That should work.

But why not just rebuild it, Without removing it ?


It looks to be in good shape.

hj said:

Because of the delay caused by the time for the cement to harden, I would not cut anything. It looks like you have enough room to screw on a ball valve, and if you get double unions for the new PRV, it will NOT have to spin to insert it. Take the existing PRV and valve apart to make them small enough to unscrew.

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Good thoughts. I like the idea of not having to cut. Checking on WATTS site, is this what you would recommend?
LF25AUB-DU-Z3 Double Union – NPT threaded union female inlet and outlet
What are the chances that the new double union PRV and ball valve will fit into the existing locations without some sort of modification and therefore the need for cement?

LifeIsGood524

DonL said:

That should work.

But why not just rebuild it, Without removing it ?


It looks to be in good shape.

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Seems the experts are split on replace vs repair. I completely understand the idea that it is more efficient for professionals to simply replace but for DIYers, is repair a good option? Anyone have recommendations on where to purchase the repair kit for a WATTS 25AUB? I'm seeing a lot of hits for the 25AUB-Z3 - are these compatible?

LifeIsGood524

LifeIsGood524 said:

Anyone have recommendations on where to purchase the repair kit for a WATTS 25AUB? I'm seeing a lot of hits for the 25AUB-Z3 - are these compatible?

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Looking at http://www.watts.com/pages/repairKits_results.asp?pid=776&catId=64, where it says 25AUB, 25AUB-Z3, I would think they are implying that the repair kits are compatible with either.

If it was me I would rebuild it, when parts are available.

It looks like all of them series valves take the same rebuild kit.

But then again, a new one can be had for $50 or so.

I would clean the housing up good and rebuild it in place.

But if you don't mind replacing connections, a new one could be installed.

Some of the stuff the old ones are made of are "Proven to cause cancer in California"


They work good in Texas, and other places.