Bell joint de-leading

My house was constructed in 1946-47. An upstairs shower stall drains into a short piece of 2" galvanized pipe, threaded on the shower-stall-drain end, which in turn drains into the bell joint of a cast-iron "J". The "J" then drains into another bell joint which is part of the stack. The 2" galvanized pipe is very rusty on the inside and probably should be replaced. My question is: How can the solder be cleaned out of these two bell joints so as to release the "J" so that the galvanized pipe can be replaced (with brass, hopefully)? It may be impossible, but it would seem to a non-professional plumber that maybe a torch could be used to partially melt the lead, which could then be pulled out with some sort of tool. The galvanized pipe can be cut, so to release the "J" it's really only necessary to de-lead the bottom joint, which fortunately is horizontal and accessible, then the top joint of the "J" can be de-leaded on a workbench.

I've read your other "Bell joint" posting so I think I can replace the "J" without any problem if I decide not to have a plumber do it, but I'd really like to have your advice on de-leading the joints.

From what I've read here, you can drill out the lead - make swiss cheese out of it, then you can usually pry most of it out. If it is a horizontal joint, you can melt it out, but be careful - molton lead burns are nasty!

Deleading A Joint

Now that is a very smokey process, and I hope
stinking up your house isnt a concern.

ventialtion is necessary cause when you get that oakum
hot it smokes-- big time...


yoiu basically jsut take a torch and a ice pick or whatever you
choose to pry and scrape at that lead and eventually you will
chisel it all out and hit the oakum behind it....

then its a matter of doing that all the way around the fitting till
you can pry it out....

drilling it out is a pretty good idea too......
never tired it that way but its got to be easier

again its pretty smokey

sometimse its easier to jsut cut it off and install a fernco fitting to
the galvanized pipe and let sleeping dogs lie

I'm with mark.

Cut the pipe and leave 3-4" of pipe and go from there with a banded coupling. Be sure that the inside of the pipe is clear B4 you attatch the new plastic pipe.

I just took a leaded joint apart last evening. I used a drill with a 1/4" bit and nibbled away at it. The best technique was to drill straight in and once through the lead, start rocking the drill from side to side. The lead came out as shavings. This one was a little difficult because the pipe was horizontal and under the basement floor. After the lead was out the pipe was free to rock around and with a little pulling, it came out.

Ron

Thanks very much for the replies! They're all good, but I've concluded that the best thing for me to do would be to drill out the lead. I didn't think about the oakum smoking -- gag! Not a good idea in the middle of winter in Minnesota, I'd be a bit uncomfortable (!) airing out the house. Also, I'd hate to have to destroy a cast-iron pipe. They've been in the house for 60 years and look as good as new, at least on the outside. I'm also a bit biased about PVC in the stack (okay, maybe it's unreasonable, but I yam what I yam). Thanks again for the ideas, and thanks especially for the prompt posts.

They all look as good as new on the outside, until the inside gets to the outside.

Ball joint de-leading

Thanks, Cass. You're right, of course. I need to see for myself what the condition of the drain system is like. Do you (or anyone else, for that matter) have any data on the probable lifespan of the out-of-the-ground portion of a cast-iron stack?

drain

There is no "one age fits all" answer. It depends on the cast iron's compostion, the uniformity of the wall thickness, and even the humidity of the air in the sewer/drain.