leak with tub drain -- larger pipe going into smaller

Hello,

Should have known something was up with all the black tape around the drain when we bought the house...
Eventually it started leaking. It is a clawfoot tub.
Removed tape and what appeared to be caulk-like stuff.
Took some photos.

The pipe on top has a slightly larger diameter than the copper drain pipe.
The space between these two is very small, so I'm not sure how I can get anything in there?
I tried using some rubber-based caulk (clear) and some additional silicon based (white).
But water seems to have found a path onto the floor.

Help, we need showers!

N

The pipe going into the floor is the top sectioin of a p-trap or an extension tube and there should be a slip joint sealing washer there, which is either inside the nut or is missing. The top of that pipe appears to be corroded away and is paper thin, which is not good.

There is no caulk used in plumbing.

I believe that tail piece sticking out of the floor should have a flange or threads on it that have either been removed, or has corroded off. You have a mess on your hands...

Thanks. There is no sealing washer. And the copper pipe is embedded in concrete.
I see photos of connectors, but how in the heck could I get them into this tight space?

I should have said that I know caulk is not appropriate, but thought it could work for the weekend until a plumber can get here.

N

There is a slip joint in the section that goes up to the overflow. You might be able to loosen the slip joint nut so you can lower the pipe over the part that is in the concrete. Replace any missing or damaged slip joint rings to get a good seal at those joints. Clean all that caulk and any corrosion off the pipe to help get a good seal.


https://www.google.com/search?hl=en....34.img..1.0.0.6M-cSe-xkQg&q=slip joint rings

Often the section of floor where the tub drain goes is filled with only a thin layer of concrete. It might be due time to move the tub and open up a bit of floor to make a proper repair.

Thanks much!
The slip joint nut (I didn't know it was called that) does screw on off. And in the picture with caulk, it is in the best position -- but I have no joint ring seal. I will try to go to hardware store, but afraid of how to ask for this! Will show pictures.

Yes, there is also a little water damage underneath, so we do need some general repairs, but not ready for a remodel just yet. Only a less smelly family.

N

IF the bottom of the tee is threaded, then you will NOT be able to connect your pipe with a gasket and slip joint washer. Your pictures do NOT show what kind of connection is on the bottom of the tee, so we cannot tell you how to reconnect it. IF you can pull that piece in the floor up and down to make it fit the tee, then you have a bigger problem on your hands than you originally stated.

washers

OK, I went to the hardware store and showed some photos. They were confused. Gave me a white O ring and said try this.
It doesn't work because the gap is too big. The gap between the two pipes.

I think I know what happened. Tub was installed correctly at one point. Before selling the house, we know that new linoleum was
put down. I suspect whoever did that, took the tub out to put down linoleum, then the plumbing didn't quite work out so they patched it.

The bottom copper pipe is embedded in concrete and does not move. An ideal repair would surely involve fixing the floor, but,
again, I'm just trying to take make this work for a few days or so.

Here are images of what I tried. I realize the O-ring is supposed to go _inside_ the slip nut, but it just doesn't reach before
the nut falls off the threads. So I put the O ring on the outside and tried to use an additional rubber ring to make a good connection
when I screw down the nut. I actually had it at a slow drip, but then messed it up and now I'm hosed.

Maybe a taller rubber ring?

N

Have you tried to loosen the slip joint in the section that goes up to the overflow yet? This may allow the cast brass tee to be lowered enough to cover the small pipe sticking out of the floor.

Well, it looks like if I try to bring down the pipe, I will pull on the drain connection. What am I missing?

You may be right. It looked like it might work from the other photo, but not so much now.

OK, here's a fix for you but don't tell anyone it was my idea. It could ruin my reputation.
1. Turn your water off & disconnect the supply lines.
2. Go get a 1 1/2" x 2" flex line coupling. (it's the grey fernco)
3. lift the tub up & put wood blocks under the two outer feet.
4. slip the small end of the coupling over the pipe on the floor.
5. Lower the tub down over the other end of the coupling.
6. tighten hose clamps.
7. Hook supply lines back up & turn water on. Check for leaks.
8. By all means take a bath already!

Thanks Jim -- I like the sound of that solution. Will try tomorrow.

Turns out that I can't easily move the tub as there is a shower connected which is screwed into the wall.
Also, if I took it apart, I would have to move the tub out as there isn't much wiggle room to simply lift up two legs (maybe the back ones...).
Anyway, I tried a simple fix -- a new O-ring (used in a proper way), and some thread tape. If I screw down just the right amount, the
O-ring is doing the job and the leak is coming from the threads. It's enough to use a towel -- one shower equals one wet towel.
So we have a clean family and hopefully plumber will help me fix it properly in a few days.

conclusion

If anyone cares, the plumber said that several parts were not meant to be there (not for a clawfoot tub) and
perhaps the reason it was like it was to begin with was because threads on the _inside_ of the pipe going
down were not ideal (?). He replaced that part, cut the copper pipe under the house, and gave me a new steel one.
A little tricky getting the drain kit back onto the tub. And the drain stop no longer works (rubber piece is fine).
About 1.5 hours, $130, and we can take a shower. I spent more time than that trying silly fixes.

N

Good news! I was under the impression that you didn't have access from below and it was going to take a major undertaking to fix the problem. Sounds like a proper fix, and a fair fee!