Matching White Ikea Sink with American Standard/Toto Toilet

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alisampam

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This is my first post here so hope I'm in the right place. I'm purchasing Ikea's Godmorgon oak vanity with a Braviken sink. Now I need to purchase a toilet and have narrowed it down to the Toto Drake or American Standard Cadet 3. Would either of these toilets, in white, match an Ikea sink?

My bathtub is an American Standard Cambridge, and I've read that American Standard white matches Toto's "Colonial White" which is a shade darker than Toto's "Cotton White". So I know how to match the bathtub, but don't know if that color would match the Ikea sink. It seems like Ikea's sinks are very bright white... and I'd like to have the toilet match the sink if possible. So in order to match the Ikea sink, what toilet should I buy?

Thanks very much if you're able to reply!
 

WJcandee

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Happy to help. You have it correct. "Colonial White" is an off-white that was made to match AS white. If you want a bright white in Toto, it is without question going to be Cotton White.

Get the Drake. We have two. They work amazingly-well. It's an excellent, consistent, reliable flush. Their construction and build quality is excellent. They use industry-standard parts, so you can replace them with parts available at your local hardware store when the time comes. (Parts that wear out after 3-7 years, like flappers, cause the toilet to run and for many people result in a call to the plumber. I think we here all agree that for most people, they can solve that problem themselves with $12 and a trip to the hardware store. If your toilet has a weird proprietary flush valve (and many do these days), then you're going to have to mail order the part for twice the money, or call a plumber. So it's reassuring to know that with a Toto, it's a DIY job for basically-anyone). If you ever get there, come back here and we'll help.

PS The Drake now comes with an optional, more traditional-looking tank. The original Drake with the original tank is model CST744E (for elongated bowl and 1.28 gallon [eco] flush). The original Drake with the new optional tank is model number CST744EN. (There is also a Drake II, which has a double-cyclone flush for more bowl rinse, a CEFIONTECT finish for easier cleanup, and Universal Height, which is close to ADA height and is a little easier on the knees. It's about $100 more. Model CST454CEFG. I have to say, though, that we love our Original Drakes, and think they're a great value -- a Best Buy. For the CST744E, you should be able to pick it up for about $240, or even less if you're lucky.)

Good luck and let us know how you make out.
 
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hj

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"White" varies depending on the material it is applied to. Cast iron, ceramic, and acrylic will ALL look different, IF you place them next to each other and they have the same shapes. HOWEVER, in the real world, the fixtures are not next to each other, and the surfaces have different planes, which all affect how the colors look, so all you have to do is get the approximate right shade.
 

alisampam

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Thanks for the detailed response! I'm actually outfitting 3 bathrooms and will need a round bowl for 2 of them due to the space. From what I can tell, the Drake II does not come with a round bowl. Is that right? The Drake seems to be the most popular, but after more research it looks like the Toto Drake, Toto Ultimate and Toto Promenade are the shortest round-bowl toilets at Drake = 26.375, Ultimate = 26.25" and Promenade = 26.125" depths. I prefer the look of the Drake and Ultimate over the Promenade, so between those two which would you recommend? Which performs better?

Color-wise I'm going to guess that the Cotton White is a better match with Ikea's bright white sink.




Happy to help. You have it correct. "Colonial White" is an off-white that was made to match AS white. If you want a bright white in Toto, it is without question going to be Cotton White.

Get the Drake. We have two. They work amazingly-well. It's an excellent, consistent, reliable flush. Their construction and build quality is excellent. They use industry-standard parts, so you can replace them with parts available at your local hardware store when the time comes. (Parts that wear out after 3-7 years, like flappers, cause the toilet to run and for many people result in a call to the plumber. I think we here all agree that for most people, they can solve that problem themselves with $12 and a trip to the hardware store. If your toilet has a weird proprietary flush valve (and many do these days), then you're going to have to mail order the part for twice the money, or call a plumber. So it's reassuring to know that with a Toto, it's a DIY job for basically-anyone). If you ever get there, come back here and we'll help.

PS The Drake now comes with an optional, more traditional-looking tank. The original Drake with the original tank is model CST744E (for elongated bowl and 1.28 gallon [eco] flush). The original Drake with the new optional tank is model number CST744EN. (There is also a Drake II, which has a double-cyclone flush for more bowl rinse, a CEFIONTECT finish for easier cleanup, and Universal Height, which is close to ADA height and is a little easier on the knees. It's about $100 more. Model CST454CEFG. I have to say, though, that we love our Original Drakes, and think they're a great value -- a Best Buy. For the CST744E, you should be able to pick it up for about $240, or even less if you're lucky.)

Good luck and let us know how you make out.
 

WJcandee

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You don't want the Ultimate. It was a great toilet when it came out, but it's more than two generations of Toto old at this point. It's the Power Gravity flush rather than the GMax. The Original Ultramax is .25" longer according to the spec sheet and is a GMax toilet. (I'm not sure that the spec sheet is 100-percent accurate on that issue...)

The Drake and the Ultramax are very different, but they use the same flush. The Originial UltraMAX was and is an outstanding toilet, just like the Original Drake. That has to be one reason they didn't discontinue it when they came up with the Double Cyclone toilets. MS853113S (you need that S in the model number, representing the GMax Flush). I think the choice comes down to whether you want a one-piece or a two piece and which aesthetics you like better.

As to round vs elongated, we usually recommend that even in tight quarters, you're going to be happier with the elongated. Unless there is a swinging door or an architectural issue that just plain precludes the elongated, you really want the elongated. It isn't as big a difference as people tend to think.
 
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alisampam

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Very helpful -- thank you. Would definitely prefer the elongated but the space is only 48" wide, so with a 21" clearance can only go up to 27" toilet depth. Do tell me if I'm wrong though and less clearance is needed!
 

WJcandee

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Very helpful -- thank you. Would definitely prefer the elongated but the space is only 48" wide, so with a 21" clearance can only go up to 27" toilet depth. Do tell me if I'm wrong though and less clearance is needed!

No, you got it right. Under the NYC Plumbing Code, Section 405.3.1 it's 15 inches from the fixture centerline on each side (30 inches center-on-center for other water closets, urinals and adjacent fixtures), and it requires at least a 21 inch (533 mm) clearance in front of the water closet, urinal, lavatory or bidet to any wall, fixture or door.
 
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