Rough inspection - DWV what is needed?

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lucy

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I've been trying to research just what goes on in a rough inspection (this is my first). Water seems to be pretty straighforward. But I need some basic advice about the DWV.

What I understand is that all of the DWV everthing needs to be sealed in some way and 5 pounds of air pressure introduced. Can somebody tell me the RIGHT way to seal the following:

A. 2-inch ABS vent risers out my roof?
B. ABS toilet flange and 1 installed operating toilet.
C. ABS SanT openings for 3 lav sinks
D. 2 bowl kitchen sink (installed) with disposal and strainer basket (not a real stopper)
E. Utility sink (installed)
F. ABS 2 part (mud) shower drain
G. ABS tub drain with overflow

Should I assume this should be sealed and pressurized before the inspector arrives? Besides having the water and the gas on...is there anything else that I need to do?

Thanks - please be as specific as you can!

Lucy
 

Cass

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#1 2" out the roof is not code here, I think it will have to be changed to 3" and a cap installed over it that will be cut off later OR a test ball inflated inside of each.

#2 Remove toilet and plug with test ball.

#3 3 san Ts will have to be pluged with test ball or capped.

#4 kitchen sink needs to be disconnected and capped or ball inflated.

#5 utility sink dito.

#6 shower drain dito.

#7 Tub drain dito.

#8 all plumbing has to be exposed for inspection.

I know 5 # doesn't sound like much but If you don't close the openings right you could have a pressure release explosion and someone could get hurt.

You will also need a pump and test gauge hooked to the system.

I recomend you get a plumber to do this ( rough inspection)for you.
 
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hj

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rough

From your descsription, an operating toilet and kitchen sink, you must be well past the normal rough inspection point, or this is an addition. Here we use a water test with all the pipes filled to the roof with water. It is an easier test to do and also easier to find any leaks. Obviously you have to disconnect any fixtures and cap all openings, with a test ball in the sewer where it leaves the building.
 

Cass

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I would not recomend a water test if the area is finished or any where near being finished as a failure could / would flood the home.
 
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lucy

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This is an addition of an upstairs bath and a remodel of 1st floor bath. So although the bathroom areas I've worked on don't have any finish - the areas beneath and around them do! Your point about flooding the house is pretty important!

The kitchen sink, utility sink and another bath are existing and I really didn't plan on having to remove those fixtures! So whenever you add 1 new fixture you have to remove 2 or 3 toilets?? Yikes!

All of my new work goes to new vents so maybe I can just not fill up the old vents with water...but if they make me is there a way to do a water test without removing all of the existing fixtures?

So let me see if I understand: there are 2 tests AIR or WATER FILL and it is up to my locality to decide what I get. For both tests I'm going to guess that I need to stop up the sewer by a ballon shoved down through the last cleanout. Is this right?

Once all of the fixtures are removed or disconnected I then cap each opening with a "test ball" or a "cap" (which is guess is glued into place?). Is there also something called a "test plug"? Which of the 2 or 3 methods work best in various situations?

If a water test is what I need to have in this area (Portland Oregon) would you say that an air test would be a way for me to do my own safety check of my new work before actually filling it with water?

thanks for the advice!
Lucy
 
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Cass

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You only need to test the new fixtures. You will need to balloon off the new plumbing where it connects to the old. I think you should use air not water for the test. The new vents, if they are going out the roof, will have to be 3", ballooned / capped off. You will need a pump and pressure gauge for low pressure tests with air bleeder to let the air out after the test. You can use a bicycle pump if the system is not to big but a compressor is easier. Do the test once B4 you call for a rough inspection and leave the test on for at least 1 hour with no loss of pressure at all. Then you can call for the inspection.

The final will be different. Not sure about there but here we do a rim test for the final test.

Once you have the test on and while you are filling the system, do not stand in front of the gauge or any caps/ balloons incase they blow off. You can get hurt.

Normaly a san T is stubed out and capped for the test. Then the stub is cut and the Desanco attatched. If you have the Desancos on now I'm not sure how safe a Female adp. screwed on to the desanco with a stub and cap would be for the test. I have never done that but maybe someone else has. I would think it would work / be safe.
 

hj

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test

If you planned ahead, you will have an opening just before the connection to the old system where you can insert a test plug so that you only have to test the new piping.
 
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lucy

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Help! How do I remove the balloon without a flood??

Please help me again!

I'm conducting the water test. I put a 3" balloon in my main sanitary drain in the basement. I have a "test tee" vertically right before it goes into the floor.

I reach into the tee, put the balloon UP into the top of the tee so that the balloon blocks the water (I do not have a valve extension unlike the photo in the following link, but the first photo is basically what I am doing)

http://www.cherneind.com/http://www.cherneind.com/products-display.asp?pind=pp_1

My question is: how can I remove the balloon without flooding my basement again? To get the balloon out I need to deflate it - and as soon as any air comes out of the balloon the force of the water causes it to slip out and MANY MANY GALLONS of the water in the vents and drains comes flooding out of the open threaded side of the test tee. The force of the backpressure is too great for me to stop it! I can't figure out how to get the water out of the drains to reduce the pressure and I can't seem to stop it from creating a gushing flood!

thanks, lucy
 
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Finnegan

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Cherne makes a plug which threads into a test tee and then inflates, sealing off the pipe. When done testing, you deflate the ball and the water drains. After the water drains from the system, you unscrew the device. No splashing. You may want to consider installing a test tee if you do not have one. Good luck.

http://www.cherneind.com/http://www.cherneind.com/products-display.asp?pind=pp_3

cherne_clean_seal_plug.jpg
 
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Mikey

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Crude but effective solution

Take a rubber glove and stick it in the T, fingers first. Turn the glove's wrist over the T, and use a worm clamp to seal it. Stick your hand in the glove and do whatever you have to do to deflate the balloon -- enough to let water flow, at least, but be sure not to let the balloon fall into the drain. Be patient. When water stops flowing, take hand out of glove, etc.
 

Finnegan

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Interesting. I don't know if I would trust it though. I can imagine letting go of the balloon. Have you tried it?
 

Mikey

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No, but I've worked with several pieces of equipment that had such glove seals, under both positive and negative pressure, so it seemed like it should work. If you're nervous about letting go of the balloon, you could probably rig something on the downstream side of the T to catch it. I don't think you'd have to hang on to it for very long. Is it the situation that you've already inserted the balloon and filled the pipe, so it's too late to use Cherne's solution?
 
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hj

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ball

Most test ball have a chain and ring on them so you can hold on to it while the water is trying to push it down the drain. Insert a stick or piece of pipe into the opening to hold the test ball in place against the water pressure. When the air is deflated the only water will be what can flow around the ball.

cherne_long_test_ball.jpg
 
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MARCELL

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You only need to test the new fixtures. You will need to balloon off the new plumbing where it connects to the old. I think you should use air not water for the test. The new vents, if they are going out the roof, will have to be 3", ballooned / capped off. You will need a pump and pressure gauge for low pressure tests with air bleeder to let the air out after the test. You can use a bicycle pump if the system is not to big but a compressor is easier. Do the test once B4 you call for a rough inspection and leave the test on for at least 1 hour with no loss of pressure at all. Then you can call for the inspection.

The final will be different. Not sure about there but here we do a rim test for the final test.

Once you have the test on and while you are filling the system, do not stand in front of the gauge or any caps/ balloons in case they blow off. You can get hurt.

Normally a san T is stubbed out and capped for the test. Then the stub is cut and the Desanco attached. If you have the Desancos on now I'm not sure how safe a Female adp. screwed on to the desanco with a stub and cap would be for the test. I have never done that but maybe someone else has. I would think it would work / be safe.
Hello Cass, I am having a similar situation. My question is do I have to balloon-off the existing part of the house to remain? or everything has to be tested together? For the first option I would have to install a clean out at the exit of the existing going to the new construction( will end up under concrete after) The new construction is in-line between septic line and the existing house. Here in Florida only water test is allowed. I don't feel confident testing the old cast iron pipes with water so would preferably balloon off the old system if allowed, then bring the inspector. I have taken this project very personal, as a challenge! thank you for your feedback!
 

Terry

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Normally you only test the new work. For new work before it enters the existing, I can put in a test tee and use a balloon on it.
If I'm installing new work in the middle of old work the inspector will sometimes allow a running test.
 

MARCELL

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Normally you only test the new work. For new work before it enters the existing, I can put in a test tee and use a balloon on it.
If I'm installing new work in the middle of old work the inspector will sometimes allow a running test.
Thank you Terry!
 

MARCELL

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Normally you only test the new work. For new work before it enters the existing, I can put in a test tee and use a balloon on it.
If I'm installing new work in the middle of old work the inspector will sometimes allow a running test.
That's exactly it, is in the middle.
 
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