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Thread: Modifying cast iron drain to move toilet?

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member akcody's Avatar
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    Default Modifying cast iron drain to move toilet?

    Hi all,
    During what was supposed to be a quick bathroom face lift I found mold and decided to re do the drywall. I then found that the drywall was actually cut out behind the toilet tank because there wasn't enough clearance. On top of that my new tub is wider than the original, and is now crowding the toilet. Bathroom is bottom story on slab, cast iron pipes, drain is inline with the outfall to my septic tank. So here's the question, what now?

    I've decided I'll have to modify the cast iron pipe accessing it through the slab. I've chipped out the concrete and dug out all around the tee. any advice one the correct way to fix this would be awesome. I have attached a pic to help clarify. Thanks in advance!
    Cody
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    DIY Junior Member akcody's Avatar
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    Here's another picture to help show my room setup, also should be mention I need about 3 inches away from tub and 1 inch away from the wall.
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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    1. The toilet is NOT properly installed since, among other problems, it does not have a vent.
    2. This is probably one of those situations where it would be easy to move it a 'long" way, but very difficult to make a small move. To move it the small distance you require, you will have to remove a lot more concrete and then use a variety of fittings to do what you desire.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

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    DIY Junior Member akcody's Avatar
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    Not sure about the vent, wouldn't be surprised if it's wrong/missing. Also wouldn't be the first absurdly wrong issue I've discovered. Home is located in rural alaska, no inspections or codes to follow for builders, especially in the 70s.
    So the parent line (plastic) from the upstairs drops down on the back side of the wall pictured with the water supply in it. It penetrates the concrete and to the best of my knowledge it 90s to catch the toilet tee. Think if i were to dig up the line back to the penetration i could return with abs and at least get closer to my destination? I'm flexible on the tub dimensions, but I refuse to countersink a toilet into my drywall.

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    DIY Junior Member akcody's Avatar
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    I'm okay with opening the floor further and taking whatever steps necessary to correct the issue of the vent, I assume the vent should be down stream of the toilet? Just not sure where to go from here as I have no plumbing experience other than fixing a leaky p trap under the sink.

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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    quote; Just not sure where to go from here as I have no plumbing experience

    That is usually the time to get someone who DOES know where to go from here.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

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    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    Not all plumber and/or electrical jobs are DIY friendly. Lots of jokes made about men not bothering to consult a map when driving, but screwed up plumbing and electrical jobs are not funny.

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    DIY Junior Member akcody's Avatar
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    Right you are. Experience is invaluable, but where there's a will there's a way. After some more research and talking with a guy who was willing to advise a direction (local retired plumber) he gave me what I needed to figure it out. Pulled the cast tee and replaced with an abs wye tee rolled slightly and a street 45 to get me back straight. Cut off a few inches of the downstream drain line and tied in with a fernco coupling either side. May or may not be to code, but it'll keep things flowing for another 40 years I'm sure. Hj thanks for your time and any thoughts you gave me.
    Here's a pic of the finished product. The drain is now centered according to code 15 inches either side and 12 from the wall and I'm happy i won't be cutting my drywall out
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    Last edited by akcody; 02-01-2014 at 03:14 PM.

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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    After some more research and talking with a guy who was willing to advise a direction (local retired plumber) he gave me what I needed to figure it out.
    Nice job on the relocation.
    Like hj mentioned, when inspected, we have to provide venting for that. But if that is what you have, it's going to have to work.
    I like to vent them to prevent pressure from the upstairs toilet flush from pushing water out of the lower floor toilet bowl.

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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    It appears that you only moved the toilet about an inch sideways, if that much. It is mathematically IMPOSSIBLE to do what you did and have the riser be perfectly vertical/straight.

    Terry, it is a good thing you are not from Wisconsin, because I don't know how you would look with a wedge of cheese on your head.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

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