Washing Machine Standpipe

Users who are viewing this thread

graemew

New Member
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Alberta, Canada
Hello,
I recently purchased a house that came with an older washer and dryer. The standpipe has been overflowing. We've only run it a few times, so I haven't been able to tell if it's a consistent problem or not. The hose was about 4-6" into the standpipe.

The copper pipe beside it is from our kitchen sink and the two don't appear to be connected. At least not right there

The top of the standpipe is 60" above the ground. I removed the PVC and the metal standpipe is 30" above the floor. When looking down the pipe, the water level is 6" below the concrete floor. I poured some water down the pipe and it didn't seem to have any issues draining, but I am going to try with a hose tonight. I haven't snaked it yet either because I don't own one.

What would be the recommended fix here? Do I lower the height of the standpipe to about 40"? Should I cut off the metal standpipe lower so there is more than 10" of PVC? There doesn't seem to be any venting space in the standpipe with the cap on top also.

Thanks!
 

Attachments

  • IMAG0300.jpg
    IMAG0300.jpg
    38.3 KB · Views: 3,054
  • IMAG0301.jpg
    IMAG0301.jpg
    33.9 KB · Views: 3,173

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,795
Reaction score
4,413
Points
113
Location
IL
That 1-inch pipe, or whatever it is, cannot keep up with what the washing machine puts out. How much water comes out onto the floor?

That bigger pipe is acting to hold some water plus it adds some "head" to help push that water into the small pipe.

The right way is to replace the drain pipe with 2 inch pipe. If it almost works now, there could be a wrong-way workaround to improve the problem.

I am not a pro.
 

graemew

New Member
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Alberta, Canada
There was enough water so that the puddle was found on the other side of the dryer. It's definitely not the whole washer discharging though.

The metal part of the standpipe is already 2".
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,795
Reaction score
4,413
Points
113
Location
IL
In that case, I think some form of snaking makes sense. I would use the
BrassCraft Medium Drain Bladder on the end of a garden hose pushed as far as it will easily go, and then turn on the water full blast. It will make a vibration that helps I think. I am picturing sand etc maybe building up in the trap.
 

Asktom

Member
Messages
745
Reaction score
32
Points
18
Location
Victor, MT
Sand build-up in the trap seems like a long-shot - assuming there is a trap. The set-up is all wrong, but without knowing what is under the floor there is no telling how to fix it. On a "make it drain" level, the best bet is snaking it out.
 

Gary Swart

In the Trades
Messages
8,101
Reaction score
84
Points
48
Location
Yakima, WA
That noway a 2" pipe into the floor. It appears in the photo to be a 1". Modern plumbing codes call for a 2" standpipe into a larger drain because newer washer dump the water faster than older models. You can sometimes get away with a 1-1/2", but a 1" is asking for trouble. There also needs to be a P trap and vent, and they should be above the floor. A basic rule in plumbing drains is that you never go from a large size into a smaller size pipe.
 

graemew

New Member
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Alberta, Canada
The metal standpipe is 2". If I use a 1/2" garden hose at full volume, it takes about 5-10 seconds for the metal standpipe to fill up. Is that normal? When I turn off the water, it drains back down within 2-4 seconds. So it seems like water is getting through pretty well, but I haven't been able to get a 1/2" snake past the elbow or p-trap that's below the concrete. I tried using the drain bladder too, which as far as I could tell was able to push water through.

I am concerned about the water level in the drain lines too. There's a clean-out on the other side of the house that I believe this drain is connected to. When we were looking at the house, we opened it up to test the weeping tile, and I could see probably 1' down to the bottom of the tee (branch faces up). Now, the water level is only a few inches from the top like my basement floor drain and the washing machine drain. Is that normal?

I appreciate the feedback - I'm running out of ideas.
 

Attachments

  • IMAG0304.jpg
    IMAG0304.jpg
    28.6 KB · Views: 804

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,795
Reaction score
4,413
Points
113
Location
IL
You would expect to have a drain trap at the bottom of your standpipe, so seeing water below floor level would be normal.

However I would think it should be able to accept water faster. When you try feeding your snake through the trap, are you rotating it as you push?
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,795
Reaction score
4,413
Points
113
Location
IL
As an amatuer I like that assembly that the prior owner put together. It adds some reserve capacity. I would be tempted to re-do that with 4 inch instead of 3 inch for more capacity. Maybe your original idea of cutting the copper a foot lower to make more room for the larger diameter pipe would make sense. With the increased length and weight it should probably get some support near the top.

But before cutting stuff, a couple of ideas...

Another idea that's easier is to run the bladder longer-- maybe 30 minutes or an hour. Let it set up its vibrating jet and hope that additional time will open things. The flow is much less than the open garden hose, but it may have a positive effect.


If that does not do it, you say it cannot keep up with the garden hose. Perhaps see if you can temporarily remove that assembly. Shove that garden hose as far down as it can go. Pack the pipe opening with a wash cloth or whatever seems to work. Then duct tape to seal more. Run the hose as fast as you can without getting too much water on the floor, to try to wash any material through. Maybe you could even adapt a hose connector to a plumbing fitting that could fit over your copper pipe temporarily to apply some pressure.
 

graemew

New Member
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Alberta, Canada
a 2" drain can handle max flow from a garden hose no problem...you have a blockage issue and may want to call in a professional to get it fixed before you have bigger problems

Mikeplummer, agreed. The toilet in the basement hasn't been flushing properly the last few days too, so I think I've got a bigger problem already. I am going to call in a professional before things get worse. The house is from 1965, so it's been around a while.

I'll update the thread with the result. Thanks for the input, everyone!
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,771
Reaction score
1,191
Points
113
Location
New England
Drainage pipe is sized by the ID...you showed 2" as the OD, so it is a almost certainly a 1.5" pipe (unless the angle is really deceiving). There's a reason why the code on WM drains was upped from 1.5" to 2" quite awhile ago...the newer machines pump things faster than the older ones, and you need the bigger pipe to accommodate it. If the 1.5" pipe was in perfect shape, it might work, but no guarantees. Code calls for the trap to be above the floor, too, so no idea how it is plumbed below.
 

Jerome2877

In the Trades
Messages
397
Reaction score
2
Points
18
Location
Vancouver Island , BC
Drainage pipe is sized by the ID...you showed 2" as the OD, so it is a almost certainly a 1.5" pipe (unless the angle is really deceiving). There's a reason why the code on WM drains was upped from 1.5" to 2" quite awhile ago...the newer machines pump things faster than the older ones, and you need the bigger pipe to accommodate it. If the 1.5" pipe was in perfect shape, it might work, but no guarantees. Code calls for the trap to be above the floor, too, so no idea how it is plumbed below.

Its 2" copper, the Abs is 3" so its was throwing us off. Sounds like the sewer main to me though.
 

hj

Master Plumber
Messages
33,600
Reaction score
1,037
Points
113
Location
Cave Creek, Arizona
Website
www.terrylove.com
Brass "P" traps have a very tight radius so few snakes will go around/through them. You have a "bad drain" which was installed by the lowest priced contractor when the building was constructed, and now you are paying the price for it. And, if you look at the picture on "Mikeplummber and if yours is like that one you could have a cleanout on the bottom, and if so, you will NEVER get a snake around the trap because it will ALWAYS get stuck in the cleanout recess.
 
Last edited:

graemew

New Member
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Alberta, Canada
I have a plumber coming today to check it out. The floor drain backed up a few times over the weekend and I think the house is missing a backflow preventer valve. I don't think the two issues are connected though.
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,771
Reaction score
1,191
Points
113
Location
New England
I have a plumber coming today to check it out. The floor drain backed up a few times over the weekend and I think the house is missing a backflow preventer valve. I don't think the two issues are connected though.
FWIW, many homes are built without a backflow preventer valve and never have a problem.
 

graemew

New Member
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Alberta, Canada
So it seems there were two issues with the plumbing. The first is that there was a build up of lint just past the P-trap below the standpipe. The plumber was able to get a 1/4" snake through, but not the 3/8". He pulled up some lint, but not a whole lot. We tested the pipe after and it flowed great, but I am still going to keep an eye on it. I think I'll put that PVC extension back on to give me an extra buffer in case it clogs up again.

The other issue with the toilet flushing and the floor drain backing up was caused by roots growing into the clay pipes heading towards the city sewer line. He got rid of the roots using a snake with a cutting tool on it. He wasn't able to get rid of them at the end of the line where the pipe was a bigger diameter though, but they weren't as bad there at least. It was pretty cool getting a video from his camera on a USB.

There is a backflow preventer that protects the basement toilet and shower, but I know that they weren't original. The floor drain, washer drain and upstairs fixtures weren't protected by this backflow preventer.

There is a missing backflow preventer valve that protects the weeping tile from a sewer backup. I am going to bring this up in a new thread though.
 
Last edited:

Caduceus

Master Plumber
Messages
139
Reaction score
4
Points
18
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
FWIW, many homes are built without a backflow preventer valve and never have a problem.
Backflow preventers on a home's water service are not to benefit a home owner or how the plumbing system operates. They are required to protect the public water supply from any hazards that may be created in your home from failure of equipment or human error.
Vacuum breakers or backflow devices on hoses, irrigation systems, boilers, etc. are there to protect the isolated water supply of the home and its occupants.
Just to clarify, if the backflow is on the drains to protect the fixtures, it is a back-water valve. Back water valves need to be accessible for servicing and removal if augering is needed for the drains or if an obstruction at the valve occurs.
Lots of strange information lately on the forum by DIY members. There's a need for registered plumbers on this site.
 
Last edited:

Jerome2877

In the Trades
Messages
397
Reaction score
2
Points
18
Location
Vancouver Island , BC
Backflow preventers on a home's water service are not to benefit a home owner or how the plumbing system operates. They are required to protect the public water supply from any hazards that may be created in your home from failure of equipment or human error.
Vacuum breakers or backflow devices on hoses, irrigation systems, boilers, etc. are there to protect the isolated water supply of the home and its occupants.
Just to clarify, if the backflow is on the drains to protect the fixtures, it is a back-water valve. Back water valves need to be accessible for servicing and removal if augering is needed for the drains or if an obstruction at the valve occurs.
Lots of strange information lately on the forum by DIY members. There's a need for registered plumbers on this site.

While you are correct, a DIY'er doesn't know the proper names or difference between them. The fact that he is talking about his washing machine drain leaves no doubt in my mind or anyone else who knows the difference that he is talking about a back water valve.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks