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Thread: 2 Questions Re: Jamie's Toto toilet install

  1. #1
    DIY Member Fumisan's Avatar
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    Default 2 Questions Re: Jamie's Toto toilet install

    1. What grit sandpaper do you use to install the tank bolts, and

    2. How to you "cut" the shims? Utility knife or just lift up until they snap off?

    Thanks for the great descriptions!

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    DIY Senior Member wjcandee's Avatar
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    I used very fine sandpaper -- you're only trying to clean the area up a tad. (Terry can correct me if I did it wrong.)

    If you get the plastic ones from HD that are used to shim windows, you just snap them.

    Also, if you can get a little tube of polyseamseal instead of silicone caulk, it's easier to get up later. You can also get a thing for your caulk gun of Polyseamseal, but it's going to be way more than you need. And use one of those little plastic 90-cent tools from the hardware store to smooth the "caulk" bead; makes it look way professional

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    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    I use plumbers' cloth, aka emery cloth, if I can find it in my plunder. If not, I just grab an old piece of regular sandpaper, whatever grit. The purpose of this sanding is to smooth off the surface around the bolt holes. It is not like finishing a piece of fine furniture. I think you may be over thinking this. I use the DAP that comes in a red tube for caulking. It's a latex product so it cleans easily with water. I runs a small bead around the toilet, then use a wet finger to smooth and level the seam. I keep a small pan of water and a clean rag on the floor beside me to wash and clean the excess caulk off the finger. The will give a nice, smooth surface.

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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    We "score" and snap the shims, when needed.
    Also, either a wet finger or a sponge. Jamie likes using a damp sponge with clear polyseamseal.
    Dap makes a similar product in a water based caulk.

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    DIY Member Fumisan's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replies! I've got a better idea now. I found some unopened Dap laying around, so I'll probably just use that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry View Post
    We "score" and snap the shims, when needed.
    Also, either a wet finger or a sponge. Jamie likes using a damp sponge with clear polyseamseal.
    Dap makes a similar product in a water based caulk.

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    DIY Junior Member Mazcar's Avatar
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    Okay, how about a third question regarding Jamie's awesome tutorial?

    Should I put silicone grease on the tank bolt grommets and on the big tank to bowl gasket; or on the Sani-Seal ring?

    I also bought the Toto Drake, polyseamseal, 400 sandpaper, HD shims, and a Sani-Seal non-wax ring.
    I am afraid of cracking the Toto, but don't want leaks.
    Thanks!

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    There's no need for any grease on the rubber parts.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    DIY Senior Member wjcandee's Avatar
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    Just follow the directions, be patient as you tighten everything, and you won't have leaks. There's a LOT of room for error, as long as you don't crack the porcelain by overtightening.

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    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    Basically, you pull each side down a little at a time. I'm sure Jamie would have the tank down in a few seconds, knowing just how much he tighten before changing sides. You and I might take 5 minutes, but so what. True it is possible to crank too much and break the tank, but at the same time, you're not dealing with eggs.

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    The porcelain is not springy, but as long as you are still compressing the rubber seal and not trying to force porcelain into porcelain, you shouldn't break anything. Just try to start out with the tank upright and an even gap all around, then tighten a couple of turns on one side, then the other until the things are almost touching (well, they can touch, but I like to use a piece of paper as a shim and test and stop when I can JUST still pull it out).
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    DIY Junior Member Mazcar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wjcandee View Post
    Just follow the directions, be patient as you tighten everything, and you won't have leaks. There's a LOT of room for error, as long as you don't crack the porcelain by overtightening.
    Jamie writes:
    3A- Using large pliers, give the large nut at the bottom of the tank a bit of a snug, then push the rubber gasket onto the bottom of the tank until it is flush.
    The flat side should be facing the tank while the tapered end should be
    pointing towards the bowl. I find a half twist will really snug it flush.
    (30 seconds)


    Does he mean that I need to get some huge channel lock pliers and turn the nut a half twist? That seems like a lot for what seems to be an already tight nut. Did he just mean to twist the rubber gasket, by hand, a half turn to snug it flush? That seems easy enough.

    Thanks for all the advice. I finally un-boxed the toilet and cleaned up the flange and stuff. The toilet rocks very little and I can barely get the end of the HD window shim underneath, but I think that will work out. The contractor had said that my flange was marginal, but okay. Looks okay to me.
    Thanks, again.
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    DIY Junior Member Mazcar's Avatar
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    Okay, I just took some channel locks to the nut. It seems pretty tight as is. It looks like nylon or some sort of plastic and don't really want to bugger it up nor crack the tank. This Drake is made in Thailand. Is it possible that those guys are tightening up stuff? I haven't checked the fill valve's torque, yet. I'm trying to watch a football game, too.

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    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    Toto has factories in several countries including the US. One of the things that sets Toto apart from other manufacturers is their quality control. No matter where the the plant is, the parts are interchangeable and, to your point, they are assembled exactly the same way. It does happen occasionally that the big nut may not be as tight as it should be, that why we check it. You do not have to use Superman power, just make sure it's tight.

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