installation of a cast iron ceramic kitchen sink

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LindaK

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I just bought a used cast iron ceramic kitchen sink in good condition and I really love the look of it! It's a drop in type. I've installed stainless steel ones before and used those screw mount things (okay, I'm a woman and have no idea what the technical term is) to hold it in place. This sink has none of the little "things" for using the mounting screws. Do I need them or does the weight along hold the sink in place? Also, I heard I can buff the sink to a high sheen. What do I buff it with? Thanks for any replies. -L
 

Jadnashua

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Does the sink have any threaded holes in it on the bottom? If so, those are for installing clamps to hold it in place. On some, they use a lip, and the clip has a tab that fits into that lip, then around the bottom of the sink and counter to clamp it in place.

Something like a car polish and a foam buffer pad on a drill may help polish things up a bit...I've never tried this, and the polish might be too 'soft' for the enamel, but better to be too soft than too abrasive. It would depend on how 'bad' the current finish is.

See what other suggestions you get before you go off and possibly ruin it. But, the paint on a car is much softer than the polish, so it shouldn't hurt the baked enamel finish, but it might not polish it either! When polishing anything...don't stay in the same place, move it around.
 

LindaK

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I don't fell anything like that. I live alone and it's far too heavy for me to pickup and look under it. It's just sitting on a mat on the floor. The lip is just smooth all around and no threaded holes under the sink. Thanks for the speedy reply! -L
 

Jadnashua

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A good bead of silicon all around under the rim will lock it in place and seal it. Clips and/or clamps are required on flimsier SS sinks. If the counter is strong enough, just gluing it in place should suffice. Just be sure to get it down evenly and sealed all the way around, because it will be a bear to get back up after the silicon cures! Some painter's tape on the counter can help minimize getting the sealant all over the place, and help with cleanup. One bead under the lip, then a bead around the outside to keep crud from getting underneath.
 

LindaK

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Okay, DAP it is!! One more question, there is old white caulking left around the sides. What is the best way to remove it without scratching the surface? Can I use nailpolish remover? (Yes, I'm a woman.)
 

Jadnashua

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I'd probably first try a razor scraper. Held at a low angle, you shouldn't mess up anything. It really depends on what type of sealant is there. Some will soften with various solvents, but some won't.
 

IssuedSig

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I like to use a high quality silicone caulk. Don't cheap out spend the extra 3 or 4 bucks! Try to avoid some of the acrylic silicone mixes they tend to get brittle and will get nasty after a while a true silicone will stay flexible.

Once you run a good bead of silicone under the edge of the sink and drop it in the sink really isn't going to move. If you are going to run a bead of silicone along the outside of the sink edge cut a very very small hole in the caulk tube and just use enough to seal edge for collecting grime. You might want to get two or three tubes of silicone and dedicate one to use on the edge when you are done setting it in the opening.



Good Luck!!
 
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