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Thread: Culligan super S re-bed - new head

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member ternzer's Avatar
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    Default Culligan super S re-bed - new head

    Hi,

    hoping one of you gurus can help me out with my culligan super S. This 10 yr old unit came with the house and has been by passed for the last year while i decided what to do. In the meantime i have temporarily bumped up my softener to remove the extra iron. (i only have about 3 mg/l and a trace of H2S) Well after reading about others here re-bedding their super S i decided to give it a shot. I ordered 30 lbs of garnet and 1.5 cf of Centuar carbon which will be here by the weekend.

    The other day I took the head off and realized it was clogged with rusty goo. after a day of soaking in Iron out i was able to get the whole thing dissembled and cleaned. Now that it is apart i realized the seals were about shot. I have searched high and low and getting the seal pack kit for this unit is about impossible. I hate the local culligan crooks and refuse to buy from them and there is none on e*b*y at the moment.

    So, my questions.

    So rather than pay $100 for a kit I was thinking if I replace this head with a normal unit like clack or Fleck what would be a good replacement? My compressor still works fine. is there a head i could still use it with? Would the new head still use bleach to backwash the system? anything else i should consider?

    thanks for the help.

    Ternzer

  2. #2
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Their super S should have manganese dioxide (Pyrolox) in it or something similar, not any type of carbon. You have their version of an air pump system. Their backwash flow control (rate) will be too high for carbon and you'll backwash it up into the valve and out of the tank to drain.

    Also, their tank may not allow swapping control valves. How does your valve mate with the tank.... screw into it or have dovetail fittings? And if it screws into the tank, are the threads industry standard 2.5" dia x 8 threads per inch?
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member ternzer's Avatar
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    it appears to be a standard single thread tank 10x54. 2.5 inch opening with about 4 threads per inch.
    A quick search of the forums and google as well as the culligan manual says that it is catalytic carbon. Centaur is the closest to their proprietary blend.

    good thread here:
    http://www.terrylove.com/forums/show...ow-brown-water
    Last edited by ternzer; 12-31-2013 at 05:38 PM. Reason: added link

  4. #4
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    Centaur is a bit spendy, but here are some other carbons that are out there, acid wash would be good mix with coconut shell would stand up to the type of use that you would be putting it to.
    The culligan tank threads are often square to the fleck or clack pipe like threading and the two do not cross over.

  5. #5
    DIY Junior Member ternzer's Avatar
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    Ok, it makes sense that they would use different threads. I guess ill just rebuild the culligan. Aquasorb looks like it has a similar catalytic carbon for about 1/3 less. Ill probably go with that and a garnet under bed rather than sand that culligan uses. thanks for the help

  6. #6
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    Drop a note if there are some culligan parts that you are in need of.

  7. #7
    DIY Junior Member billy0510's Avatar
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    anyone have any diagrams showing the bedding of this super S filter??? or anywhere i can get a diagram?

  8. #8
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    Never really seen one.
    Head is removed and media is dumped out into buckets and tank rinsed out and then tube put back in with either duck tape over the open end or some other plug and then gravel and then media and then the valve back on top..

    Some like to fill the media tank with water before and letting set for an hour or so and then putting the valve back on top of the tank, makes it easier with no air to deal with when putting the system through a cleaning cycle.

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