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Thread: Iron Removal Help

  1. #16
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    That sounds about right as that would be the quick and easy way of doing in that there would be no fuss.
    The only real challenge would be getting the current valve off with out pulling the distributor tube up in the media tank, getting it back down would be a pain.
    Is your current set up SXT or non digital?

  2. #17
    DIY Junior Member FenderBender's Avatar
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    Non digital. I was a little worried about that tube. Is my worst case scenario that I would have to dump it out and refill?

    I have pretty much decided that the AIO is the way to go. Now I have to select the DLFC. It looks like 12-15 is the right number, should I just go for the 15?

  3. #18
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    Drop a pm...

    There is away of taking the 5600 that you have and changing the power head and then the incoming point between the bypass and valve body adding the check valve and then on the brine piston block housing adding the brine piston and the check valve to the brine line 3/8 tube..

    There is away of removing the current valve with very little movement of the dist tube,, control comes off and the piston and seals spacers come out and then a standard screw driver to hold the dist tube while the body is turned.... little at a time but it keeps the tube from coming up.

  4. #19
    DIY Junior Member FenderBender's Avatar
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    PM sent. akpsdvan, you are the best. Thanks everyone for the help. I am going with AIO 2510, I just need some last advice on the backflow rate. Should I just go with 15GPM?

  5. #20
    DIY Senior Member lifespeed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FenderBender View Post
    Non digital. I was a little worried about that tube. Is my worst case scenario that I would have to dump it out and refill?
    This might be one of those situations where it is worth it to go a couple steps further and take it all apart and dump it. My understanding is the heavy iron removal medias if not adequately backwashed can get stuck together in clumps. If this has happened to you and you don't loosen the media you won't really be solving the problem.

    If you're changing the valve I think that means you need to change the distributor tube to match. Just do the whole job with a new bottom screen too and you'll know exactly what you have in there and the media is free to be properly backwashed.
    Lifespeed

  6. #21
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    Both the 5600 and 2510 use the same pilot tube assembly o ring and ring clip... and if there is the 1.05 why would one need to change distributor tube?

    A high pressure spray nozzle will work in putting down into the media tank and stirring up the media.. now it is best done out side for the over flow of water from the media tank is going to make a bit of a mess of things ..

    There is not that much of iron, I am looking at a system that has 15ppm of iron and 2.5ppm of Mn........ that in years is going to be fun changing and there is really no way around the mess that it will be.

  7. #22
    DIY Junior Member FenderBender's Avatar
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    All good comments. It was suggested to me to add a line that goes directly into the intake line for the filter when I make my changes and then use it as a method for introducing bleach directly into the media. This would allow for a cleaning and keep from having to go through shock treating the well. Also, I would not have to deal with the dumping and reintroduction.

    Sounded pretty good to me. I am not exactly sure how to do it, but I'll need a shut off valve and I assume a "T". Has anyone done this before? Also, still looking for advice on the DLFC size for Filox...10,12 or 15?

  8. #23
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    There was a 2510 that used air rather than salt and the line that would have gone to the salt had a 3/8 check valve on it, that line could then be added to and chlorine pulled in through the line...

    Back wash rate for the 1 cubic media is 11gpm and 2 is 15gpm. What size tank is in use now?

  9. #24
    DIY Junior Member FenderBender's Avatar
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    1.5 CF is my current setup.

  10. #25
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    I think it has more to do with the diameter of the tank than the volume of media.

  11. #26
    DIY Junior Member FenderBender's Avatar
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    10". I have read that it needs to be anywhere from 10 - 15 GPM depending on water temp, tank diameter, tank design, amount of media, etc....I was thinking 12 or 15. Since my iron is not attrocious, I was leaning to 12.

  12. #27
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    Ja, lots of factors to consider. The amount of media for a given tank size will determine the freeboard. The higher the backwash rate, the more freeboard may be required. Back when my iron filter was new, I could shine a light through the tank and see the media well up during backwash. After I had the media rebedded, I was getting media up into the journals in the head due to insufficient freeboard.

  13. #28
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    A tank of 10x54 is going to be 1.5 cubic with 17" free board.......... really no matter what the media is.

    Backwash rate is then on the media... risen lower while kdf will be high... 20gpm.
    The current media in question is a cross between pylox and greensand so about 12gpm should do good.

    As for media into the valve, either to much or if Pumice/filtag going into back wash while the media was still to fresh and no cap had be made on the top of the media.

  14. #29
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Akpsdvan View Post
    As for media into the valve, either to much or if Pumice...
    Not sure what media I had before the dealer rebedded with pumice. Anyway... I think air from the micronizer was increasing the velocity (and lift) as well.

  15. #30
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    That could have been the case.
    How long from the rebed to the first cleaning?
    just a few hours or more like 10 days with the loss of pressure at any given sink?

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