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Thread: Neep help on what kind of regulator for LP gas?

  1. #16
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    Tank size and length of run.....I doubt the unit will even fire off.
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  2. #17
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thekid1 View Post
    alp080bw-2g02

    Not sure I would mess with it unless you have a manometer, and a way to measure flow when you go to cranking on that gas valve. It is calibrated for NG now, unless you already tweaked it.

    Then in the manual it says;

    "This conversion should be performed by a
    qualified service agency in accordance with the
    manufacturer’s instructions and all applicable
    codes and requirements of the authority
    having jurisdiction. If the information in these
    instructions is not followed exactly, a fire, an
    explosion or production of carbon monoxide may
    result causing property damage, personal injury,
    or loss of life. The qualified service agency is
    responsible for proper conversion of these boilers.
    The conversion is not proper and complete until
    the operation of the converted boiler is checked
    as specified in this manual."


    The NG gas company may also frown on you doing it.

    The regulator that Reach4 posted should work, but the 100 # tank would be best.

    You will be lucky to get 4 hours out of the 40 # tank.


    Have Fun. Be safe.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

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  3. #18
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonL View Post
    Not sure I would mess with it unless you have a manometer, and a way to measure flow when you go to cranking on that gas valve. It is calibrated for NG now, unless you already tweaked it.

    Then in the manual it says;

    "This conversion should be performed by a
    qualified service agency in accordance with the
    manufacturer’s instructions and all applicable
    codes and requirements of the authority
    having jurisdiction. If the information in these
    instructions is not followed exactly, a fire, an
    explosion or production of carbon monoxide may
    result causing property damage, personal injury,
    or loss of life. The qualified service agency is
    responsible for proper conversion of these boilers.
    The conversion is not proper and complete until
    the operation of the converted boiler is checked
    as specified in this manual."


    The NG gas company may also frown on you doing it.

    The regulator that Reach4 posted should work, but the 100 # tank would be best.

    You will be lucky to get 4 hours out of the 40 # tank.


    Have Fun. Be safe.
    The little 20 lb tank will ice up for sure and become unable to vaporize any more of the liquid fuel in the tank as Tom Sawyer said before. The large tank has enough surface area to absorb some "heat" from the Winter air outside and stay warm enough to keep on boiling off gas vapor. I have a 50 Gallon (approx 200 lbs) that keeps up OK with my LP Hot tub heater which is about 125K BTU if I remember correctly. No NG near me.
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

  4. #19
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL43 View Post
    The little 20 lb tank will ice up for sure and become unable to vaporize any more of the liquid fuel in the tank as Tom Sawyer said before. The large tank has enough surface area to absorb some "heat" from the Winter air outside and stay warm enough to keep on boiling off gas vapor. I have a 50 Gallon (approx 200 lbs) that keeps up OK with my LP Hot tub heater which is about 125K BTU if I remember correctly. No NG near me.

    I bet you do not have to many Fat Ladies floating around with you in your Hot tub. Food is cheaper. You may be spoiled.

    Filling a 50 Gallon and paying for it would make me cry, as the gas man pulls away.


    I would not jack with a new system. I would get fat ladies or small 750 watt room heaters for every room.


    And have plenty of Fritos on hand, If you want the Body to have extra BTUs in storage.


    That is just me. Some people light farts for heat.


    Have Fun Everyone.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

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  5. #20
    DIY Junior Member thekid1's Avatar
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    Besides the issue of the tank being smaller, therefore absorbing less heat, icing up and not being able to vaporize(great point by the way), can someone please explain further why a 20lb tank vs a 100lb wont work to feed boiler. Pressure is pressure, right? Either tank is still being regulated down to 11w.c, so what is the difference if the tank is big or small if as long as the little one is supplying 11w.c. which the boiler calls for? I just keep hearing people say it wont work, explain. This is only an 80k btu boiler by the way.

  6. #21
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonL View Post
    I bet you do not have to many Fat Ladies floating around with you in your Hot tub. Food is cheaper. You may be spoiled.

    Filling a 50 Gallon and paying for it would make me cry, as the gas man pulls away.


    I would not jack with a new system. I would get fat ladies or small 750 watt room heaters for every room.


    And have plenty of Fritos on hand, If you want the Body to have extra BTUs in storage.


    That is just me. Some people light farts for heat.


    Have Fun Everyone.
    Now you've gone and upset all the fatties here Don. I don't know any fat ladies. But thanks for that visualization, ahem. OK, I've recovered.

    Yes, Propane is expensive here on Long Island, NY. I'm due for a delivery any day. Should be around 4 bucks a gallon, but I'm not sure. The propane heater just says FEED ME, FEED ME. It is outside, but the hot tub itself is in the house in its own room with the exercise equipment, which has not rusted at all. OOOOOoooh! that visualization just came back. Excuse me, gotta go. lol
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

  7. #22
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thekid1 View Post
    Besides the issue of the tank being smaller, therefore absorbing less heat, icing up and not being able to vaporize(great point by the way), can someone please explain further why a 20lb tank vs a 100lb wont work to feed boiler. Pressure is pressure, right? Either tank is still being regulated down to 11w.c, so what is the difference if the tank is big or small if as long as the little one is supplying 11w.c. which the boiler calls for? I just keep hearing people say it wont work, explain. This is only an 80k btu boiler by the way.

    The manual says how much pressure drop that your system can live with.

    If you can keep it at 11 you will be fine.

    The pressure will not be constant just because you use a regulator.


    You should be using a bigger tank.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

    Cyber Security Protection for Windows C:\ > WWW.WinForce.Net

  8. #23
    DIY Junior Member thekid1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thekid1 View Post
    Besides the issue of the tank being smaller, therefore absorbing less heat, icing up and not being able to vaporize(great point by the way), can someone please explain further why a 20lb tank vs a 100lb wont work to feed boiler. Pressure is pressure, right? Either tank is still being regulated down to 11w.c, so what is the difference if the tank is big or small if as long as the little one is supplying 11w.c. which the boiler calls for? I just keep hearing people say it wont work, explain. This is only an 80k btu boiler by the way.
    Any takers?

  9. #24
    DIY Junior Member thekid1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonL View Post
    The manual says how much pressure drop that your system can live with.

    If you can keep it at 11 you will be fine.

    The pressure will not be constant just because you use a regulator.


    You should be using a bigger tank.
    I understand the pressure will not be constant by using a regulator. The boiler basically states no more than 1w.c. drop upon startup.

    So basically you are saying that it is possible to maintain a constant 11w.c. with a barbecue tank? If not, what is different that it would not?
    Last edited by thekid1; 12-13-2013 at 06:08 PM.

  10. #25
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thekid1 View Post
    I understand the pressure will not be constant by using a regulator. The boiler basically states no more than 1w.c. drop upon startup.

    So basically you are saying that it is possible to maintain a constant 11w.c. with a barbecue tank? If not, what is different that it would not?
    when th eloittle barbq tank gets so cold that it will not be able to boil off any more liquid into gas, there will be NO pressure. The regulator can't fix THAT. A regulator is only used to REDUCE a higher pressure into a "constant" reduced pressure even if the tank would be out in the Sun and would be generating a higher internal gas pressure. In January, all will be fixed here on Long Island when NJ's PSEG takes over LIPA, LOL. Well, we can wish.
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

  11. #26
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    The energy content difference in LP verses NG per volume is huge. I'm having trouble believing a single device can be switched between those two gases without doing some other tweaks. On most things I've ever dealt with, that includes a new regulator, a different orifice, potentially a totally different burner assembly, and maybe logic changes (that, could easily be handled with a switch) if it has electronic controls. If it was as simple as flipping a switch, why would they say to get a qualified person to make the conversion. The pressure is tied to the energy content and the orifice, which is all tied to the burner and the BTU required. It is very important to not mess with things you do not understand when it includes gas. The dangers can be very costly. Doing two burner conversions is going to be somewhat costly (changing from NG to LP, then back again), not counting renting a propane tank and any ancillary equipment required.

    FWIW, when the liquid propane evaporates, just like sweat evaporating from your skin, absorbs lots of energy (and makes the vessel less warm - cold is an abstract, it is in reality a measure of heat, or lack of it - things with less heat are called cold, but cold isn't a thing - heat is)...a small tank may have problems when it's already very cold outside absorbing enough heat to not turn bits to frozen blobs.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  12. #27
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    That model appears to have a adjustable flow control on the gas valve.

    And it takes the proper instruments to set it properly.

    You could use a tank warmer to keep the pressure up. A Power Blanket is one that is available.

    Did I say, it takes the proper instruments to set the gas valve properly ? Yes it does.


    Other than the occasional light of a hot fart , You should not play with Flammable Gas.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

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  13. #28
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    The energy content difference in LP verses NG per volume is huge. I'm having trouble believing a single device can be switched between those two gases without doing some other tweaks. On most things I've ever dealt with, that includes a new regulator, a different orifice, potentially a totally different burner assembly, and maybe logic changes (that, could easily be handled with a switch) if it has electronic controls. If it was as simple as flipping a switch, why would they say to get a qualified person to make the conversion. The pressure is tied to the energy content and the orifice, which is all tied to the burner and the BTU required. It is very important to not mess with things you do not understand when it includes gas. The dangers can be very costly. Doing two burner conversions is going to be somewhat costly (changing from NG to LP, then back again), not counting renting a propane tank and any ancillary equipment required.

    FWIW, when the liquid propane evaporates, just like sweat evaporating from your skin, absorbs lots of energy (and makes the vessel less warm - cold is an abstract, it is in reality a measure of heat, or lack of it - things with less heat are called cold, but cold isn't a thing - heat is)...a small tank may have problems when it's already very cold outside absorbing enough heat to not turn bits to frozen blobs.
    Thanks for that great explanation of cold Jim. I did not realize that I was just experiencing a lack of heat when I felt cold. And also, why it feels warmer in places like Florida and San Diego. And while you are clarifying things, what bits are you referring to: digital bits, drill bits, or screw driver bits? lol, just having fun. Or am I?
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

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