Currently one of my clients is installing a linear drain and he called me yesterday to let me know he was ready to tile. I asked him if he preformed a flood test and he told me no. I asked why and he said that the inspector did not require it and only asked to see water travel down the shower floor to the drain.
This is a huge mistake. Always flood test your shower projects and make sure you do so for a period of time of 72 hours. The hurdle for my online client is not understanding how to dam and waterproof a few of the tricker parts. IE the toilet flange and the doorway. This customer has built a proper wetroom and the entire room is waterproofed.
So here goes.
The photo's below show a simple approach of using 8" KerdiBand to make a water closet flashing to wrap around the toilets waste pipe. I later added another collar and will today brush on one more coat of Ardex 8+9.
Got to run to work but will post the pictures and add the explanation later.
I removed the temp cap so I could get a tighter seal from my Kerdi Band (eight inch version) over the black ABS toilet waste pipe. When I installed the floor days earlier I knew I would be using Kerdi Band later but did use a 3" flat trowel Ardex 8+9 coat around the pipe. You can see this above - the Ardex 8+9 looks almost black in colour..
The photo above is Kerdi Band - eight inch version. I fold the Kerdi Band in half, then in half and then in half and then half again. Keeping the point tight. Then placing the Kerdi Band fold over the rough opening since I adjust the tip so it's about 1/4" off the center mark. Then straight cut with my Olfa blade (box cutter). This makes a circle (kind of) that can be placed over the toilets waste pipe. This is a compression seal but not water proof. I place the fitting in place dry and then later add some Ardex 8+9 underneath and above to set the flashing in place. Later the following day I will re coat this work.
Last edited by johnfrwhipple; 12-12-2013 at 07:01 AM.
Last edited by johnfrwhipple; 12-12-2013 at 07:03 AM.
Last edited by johnfrwhipple; 12-12-2013 at 07:05 AM.
This bathroom also has room to access the furnace so not only do I have to dam one door - I have to dam two. Building a temporary dam is pretty easy with Kerdi and Ardex 8+9.
You need a block across the doorway and then treat this block like it was a shower curb. I waterproofed the entire surface area of this bathroom. We will fill up the entire room to check my work.
This photo is looking into the room. The temp dam by the furnace shown on the left of the picture.
This 2"x4" wrapped in Tuck Tape is just a spacer. The Kerdi DS flap will press against it when the weight of the water builds up.
The entry I mark with Green Tape. It is very important to use red and green tape at Christmas Time!!! Kidding I did this just to be festive and to help highlight the tripping hazard.
Yesterday I set the top collar on the ACO shower drain's two piece clamping drain. When setting this ACO drain top I use this pattern to tighten the screws. 1, 3, 2, 4 these numbers represent the screws going around the drain in a clockwise manner. Notice how the bolts are perfectly square to the trench - this is not by chance. These line up two of the weep holes perfect in the center of the trench. I'll show more on this later when we set the ACO linear shower drain over top of the rough in drain.
In order for all the water to get to the drain some fine tuning and grading work needed to be done. Here isa peak at the layout I used to prepare this wet room floor. The orange material is Kerdi DS not Kerdi. Kerdi DS is a much better product and one of my new favourite membranes to use on my barrier free shower builds. This shower is also a steam room. The floor is all heated below the Kerdi DS. With 30 plus inside and outside corners this build is about as hard as it gets.
Last edited by johnfrwhipple; 12-13-2013 at 07:24 AM.
I grabbed a hose and filled this wet room easily. While filling I snapped a few dozen pictures to remind me how the pitch was working and to highlight any slight flaws in my work. Later when we drain the floor we can look for any poor grading but as it filled it looked flawless. Poor grading is highlighted after a flood test by puddles of water.
No Puddles - No Troubles
Love this shot. You can see the bathrooms LED shower niche glowing in the water!
Every flood test needs one of these. An Evaporation control test. This little extra step allows you to read the exact water level of a flood test. Marks on the wall do not cut it. This control with my tipped coin technique the best guage of a water flood test I have ever seen. If someone knows of a better approach I would love too hear it.
I set both coins at the same angle and fill the control test so the coins read the same. Half coin is my favourite. I spin the coin so the looney (Bird - Duck) is sitting the same way.
In case the clients loaf pan rusts or transfer a mark I stood the pan off the shower's floor (Kerdi DS Waterproofing) with a couple of tile samples.
Like my buddies shower above this shower is getting an ACO tile insert linear shower drain. The clients sent me a message that the flood test looks great yesterday but for piece of mind I will go look myself today if they do not send me pictures of my coins prior to this. The tipped coin and control I use allows me to have anyone send a photo of the coins. I can compare this to what I took at the time of setting them.
My clients can see the test - and monitor it themselves. They paid me top dollar to produce their barrier free vision - they desire a perfect result. How do you know it's perfect? You flood test for 72 hours. Every shower - Every time. Regardless of what the yahoos on John Bridge's forum have to say about the subject. Hell some of the members there do not even check their work.
Guys here on Terry's site (like the Big Red Shoe) often say it's not needed. This man not even in the shower business. Since no one else has made a comment on this discussion Jim will not defend his lame stand of the length of a shower flood test. However if any on of the rest of you care to help this discussion out with a few questions - watch the big red show jump in with his cut and paste info stream. This is because google ranks discussions with more members higher in the search chain. In case anyone wanted to know why I brought this point up.
In the US most flood test need only be 15 minutes. This of course is the best for the tile man, plumber and builder. Might be best for you too if you are in a rush. Most bathrooms do not get inspected so if you really don't care skip it. Now if you actually want a proper shower and want it to last, and like me feel that the people building your shower should check their work - then insist on it.
Your choice. A shower is the wettest place on earth. Do you really think they dry out between uses? If you said yes - give your head a shake...
You get one chance to waterproof your barrier free shower. "When it's perfect. It's good enough." JW
Last edited by johnfrwhipple; 12-13-2013 at 07:37 AM.
The latest wet room here in North Vancouver features a linear drain from Quick Drain USA and a full Kerdi DS vapour proofing system. I do not sell Quick Drain USA'a linear drains anymore but after installing dozens and dozens have learned a few tricks.
This wet room will see the Proline's drain's waterproofing completely covered with Kerdi DS.
This flood test will also showcase the Quick Drain USA capillary break detail into the design.
I was called to this job site by a very skilled DIY home builder. When it came the grading and vapour proofing he decided not to risk it and hire me to do the job for him. As I do with all my clients in Vancouver is I allowed him to use my account to purchase his tile. This saved him hundreds of dollars and helps off set my bill for the vapour proofing.
It's going to be a tricky build with both a window and niche in this steamer.