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Thread: Cycle stop Valve help

  1. #31
    DIY Member Maxbrandy's Avatar
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    Hello Gentleman.....

    I been gone for a while ... work got crazy ...
    So I still have the problem... since the last time I posted I replaced the switch with new one 40/60.
    Still no rhythm nor reason for this to lose pressure.

    So the pump cuts in at 40 cuts out at 60.... the cut off is between 25 - 30.

    what I notice to night, because the pressure lost when doing a load of laundry.... last time was yesterday morning. So what I notice is, when water is being used and the pressure drops down to 40, the pump kicks on BUT the pressure continued to drop , now only the wash machine was being used.... as I watch the pressure drop, all the sudden I heard a little noise and the the pressure jumped up to 45 and rose to the 50 that I have the CSV set to. Now why would this happen? This driving me nuts...

    I check the pressure tank again, that was 35 psi

    why would pump turn on at 40, pressure continue to drop on the gauge... then all the sudden something seemed to release and pressure jumped up to where it should be.

    when ever I have to reset pump... gauge shows 0... I reset, gauge jumps up to 30 ish and climbs to the 60 cut off

    Not sure since I havent replied in a few weeks if this post is still active

  2. #32
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maxbrandy View Post
    So what I notice is, when water is being used and the pressure drops down to 40, the pump kicks on BUT the pressure continued to drop...
    What do you mean by the pump kicks on? How do you know?

    I'm guessing the switch closes to energize the control box but perhaps the control box has a bad starting cap and so the pump may not actually start.

  3. #33
    DIY Member Maxbrandy's Avatar
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    Yes , the switch closes, I don;t know that the pump is actually kicking on right away. Would the bad cap delay the start of the pump? So if say the pressure was at 55 instead of 42 , it would actually start before it reach the cutoff point?

    The pump is a UT203, its less then a year old, had to buy this one because the old one died on a Saturday afternoon and lowes was my only option, doing a little research I am seeing that this pump isn't tops on the list.

  4. #34
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    Did the control box get replaced with the pump? A bad cap can make for hard starts. The low pressure cut-off point follows below the low pressure cut-in so the delta will not change by changing the cut-in setpoint.

    If you could put an ammeter on the circuit to monitor the current draw when the pressure switch closes yet the pressure continues to drop, that will tell you whether you are in a locked rotor situation at the time.

  5. #35
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LLigetfa View Post
    Did the control box get replaced with the pump?

    That pump should not use a control box.

    It is rated at 230Volts 9.8 Amps.

    A clamp on amp meter would tell what is happening. You could have a loose wire connection going to the pump.


    Does a Cycle Stop Valve go bad ? How long do they last ?


    Good Luck.
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  6. #36
    DIY Member Maxbrandy's Avatar
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    This is a 2 wire pump, all motor controls are deep deep deep in the well....
    I will pick up a amp meter from a buddy and see if thats the issue, The pump isnt even a year old so if it is bad better off finding out now.

  7. #37
    DIY Member Maxbrandy's Avatar
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    DonL.....

    I am not sure if the valve goes bad , I would think it would, my understanding is it just restrict flow but I could be wrong.

    I am starting to lean toward the motor being bad, will do the test with meter and see what it tell me

  8. #38
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maxbrandy View Post
    DonL.....

    I am not sure if the valve goes bad , I would think it would, my understanding is it just restrict flow but I could be wrong.

    I am starting to lean toward the motor being bad, will do the test with meter and see what it tell me

    Looks like you have a 1 year warranty on that pump.

    If the wiring is intact and the pressure switch is working, there is not much else to go bad.


    Good Luck.
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  9. #39
    DIY Member Maxbrandy's Avatar
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    Yes its 1 year .... but a I cant wait till it craps out for good.

    I will test the amps today.... if its bad then next step is to determine what pump I should get to replace it, because there is NO way the same pump is going in the ground. These things don't fail in July... the crap out in the middle of winter. Not a real hard job but its cold out...LOL

    Then the fight will begin with Lowes refunding my money ... Yippppeeeeee

  10. #40
    DIY Senior Member Reach4's Avatar
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    How much pipe, or anything else, is between your pressure switch and your pressure tank?

    How much time lapses between the pump switch turning on and the pressure gauge starting to go up?

  11. #41
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    I think I see where you are going with this. You think there is a topside checkvalve and that the line is draining back?

  12. #42
    DIY Member Maxbrandy's Avatar
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    Just tested again

    pressure at 60, drained down switch closed at 40, amps went to 10.5, dropped down to 10 as pressure rose to 55 (csv set) amps held there. closed valve oressure rose and amps dropped to 9.8 , pressure hit 60 , switched opened

    Open valve, drain down to 42 closed valve, less then a minute opened valve, pressure hit 40, switch closed , amps shot up to 40 stayed there for few seconds then zero amps. switch stayed closed pressured continued to drop (closed and opened valve a few times) then at switch cut off switch opened and pressured went to zero. Tried to reset wouldn't, waited maybe 20 seconds tried reset again amps went to 10.5, pressure shot to 30 and continued up to 60.

    so I have recreated the scenario twice>>>>> whats next ????

    Have to say I am learning a lot here

  13. #43
    DIY Member Maxbrandy's Avatar
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    Reach4

    I relpied to you post but must of done something wrong because I don;t see it.

    There is a Tee so I would say maybe 10" or less from Tank to switch.

    when the pump working there is like zero time between switch close and gauge going up.
    Sometimes it will take 4 to 5 seconds
    Then when it fails switch close and gauge never goes up


    and to answer LL>>> there is a check valve between outside wall where pipe comes in and where CSV is

  14. #44
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maxbrandy View Post
    ...amps shot up to 40 stayed there for few seconds then zero amps. switch stayed closed pressured continued to drop...
    OK, good sleuthing! The high current suggests locked rotor followed by thermal trip.

  15. #45
    DIY Member Maxbrandy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LLigetfa View Post
    OK, good sleuthing! The high current suggests locked rotor followed by thermal trip.
    OK, so in the real world, pump is on its way out then?

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