Stiebel Eltron Tempra 29 Plus, issue with shower

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Atticweb

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OK, I feel like you're just not reading my posts, or I'm not getting through well enough. There are numerous reasons I had to go non-vented, non-24/7 heated tank, but I'm already writing a tome here. The unit is working perfectly, just as advertised, in some pretty adverse conditions. It controls itself, without help. I've done ALL the experiments and YES it's a busted ol' mixer that I need to replace. I'm just trying to figure out the best solution to get a *@^&$@ hot shower (excuse the language). I am getting one now -- with the cold supply (and upstairs toilet!) turned off. I *should* be able to get this with the latest and greatest valve unit, just would like to know what it is, what y'all recommend, one that will totally shut off the cold water so I can get what the unit is set for. This just doesn't seem like rocket science; matterafact, just the opposite. Do I really need to go 20 years in the past for a solution"? So, what is the best code-compliant faucet/mixer whatever that will let my unit do what it's doing so well on it's own?
 

Lifespeed

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To provide feedback for your application on the particular model of Toto thermostatic mixing valve I use I did the following:

Turned on the shower and confirmed the shower water matched the 104F setpoint with 130F incoming hot water supply. Bathroom sink faucet (standard two-handle) hot water was above the range of the thermometer.

I then set the water heater to 105F and confirmed the water at the bathroom sink faucet was 107F. I turned on the shower with the temperature control at the same nominal setpoint and measured the water temperature at 100F. Increasing the mixer valve temperature did not result in an increase in water temperature.

Based on these observations I conclude that some temperature "overhead" is required for (at least this model) thermostatic valve to regulate the temperature. It will not provide the same temperature at the showerhead as supplied at the hot inlet to the mixer, but will be a few degrees less. Of course I can't speak from experience about other brands of thermostatic valve or pressure balanced valves.

If your heater configuration is unable to provide 5 - 10 degrees higher temperature hot water supply than the desired shower temperature (104F is considered typical, YMMV) then you are correct to look carefully at mixer valves that can provide "full hot". This may not be a common request, so you will want to confirm this ability before soldering it into your wall and burying it behind tile, sheetrock, or whatever.

Good luck!
 
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Atticweb

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Thanks lifespeed for the experiment. Helpful, hear you on confirming and that seems to be the issue. Again thanks much.
 
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