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Thread: Pushomatic Breaker 100 Amp Bus

  1. #1

    Default Pushomatic Breaker 100 Amp Bus

    Hello to the group,
    I want to replace a Main breaker in a Pushomatic box. It is a 100 Amp.
    I was able to buy a replacement unit. But it is designed for non-main use. That is to say it has two tabs which attach to the bus; and two connections for wires. The wire lugs are removable. But the holes in the tabs that used to be used for wire don't seem to line up with the holes in the two hot buses.

    This is the new one I have:
    T2100
    Connecticut Electric UBIP2100 Pushmatic Circuit Breaker, 2-Pole 100-Amp

    So, does anyone remember a difference in a main breaker and what seems like one only to be used for branch circuits ?

    TIA

    Bob

  2. #2
    DIY Senior Member bluebinky's Avatar
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    I have two of them in my junk pile (PC No. 43640 replacement & PC No. 48640 original). The replacement one was the last one the the breaker store had. They had lots of the non-main breakers.

    One breaker cost more than the new 200A Square D panel with main breaker that eventually replaced it...

    Not sure what you are asking, but the main difference seems to be the shape and placement of the tabs.

  3. #3
    Electrician ActionDave's Avatar
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    A Main Breaker has to physically attach to the panel somehow so there is no chance of you ending up with a live breaker in your hand even though it is in the off position.

  4. #4
    Electrical Contractor/Instructor jwelectric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ActionDave View Post
    A Main Breaker has to physically attach to the panel somehow so there is no chance of you ending up with a live breaker in your hand even though it is in the off position.
    This is correct

  5. #5
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    It also usually bolts to the incoming and outgoing lugs. It would not use a "wire terminal".
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  6. #6
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    I thought a Pushomatic was a VW auto transmission selector, that was mounted on the dash.

    Times are a changing.


    Have Fun Everyone & Be Careful playing with electricity.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

    Cyber Security Protection for Windows C:\ > WWW.WinForce.Net

  7. #7
    DIY Senior Member dj2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonL View Post
    I thought a Pushomatic was a VW auto transmission selector, that was mounted on the dash.

    Times are a changing.


    Have Fun Everyone & Be Careful playing with electricity.
    I thought that was on PLYMOUTH cars...

  8. #8

    Default Need Breaker

    Quote Originally Posted by bluebinky View Post
    I have two of them in my junk pile (PC No. 43640 replacement & PC No. 48640 original). The replacement one was the last one the the breaker store had. They had lots of the non-main breakers.

    One breaker cost more than the new 200A Square D panel with main breaker that eventually replaced it...

    Not sure what you are asking, but the main difference seems to be the shape and placement of the tabs.
    Yes, the tabs seem to be just a little off to correctly bolt to both buses.

    Because the use is a duplex (two meters), it would be expensive and require a permit to change out the panel.
    So, I need one of these "Main" breakers that will bolt to the hot bus and to the bus to which the other breakers are attached.

    Would love to get a new one.

    Any help appreciated,

    Bob

  9. #9
    DIY Senior Member Reach4's Avatar
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    Note that it is Pushmatic... no 'o'. I don't have a lead on the part you are looking for, but that might help your searches.

  10. #10
    DIY Senior Member bluebinky's Avatar
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    For those who haven't seen pushmatic (bulldog) breakers, they are screwed down to the bus on one side and have lugs on the other. The main breakers look almost identical, but are subtly different. They seem to be considered hazardous by some.

    I was able to get one from Bay Breakers in San Jose CA a few years ago ($200).

    Are you willing to replace with used? I don't think they are manufactured any more. I see two on e-bay that look like a match...

    Try googeling combinations of: bulldog, pushmatic, ITE Siemens

  11. #11

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    $53 dude. It's not even worth messing with that old Push-o-Matic panel.

    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-...VP5/100197589#

  12. #12
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    quote; I thought that was on PLYMOUTH cars...

    What about the Edsel with the buttons in the steering wheel. But "pushmatic" is probably what you did with a Yugo, when it wouldn't go into drive.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  13. #13
    Consultant cwhyu2's Avatar
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    Split buss panel?

  14. #14
    DIY Senior Member Homeownerinburb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluebinky View Post
    For those who haven't seen pushmatic (bulldog) breakers, they are screwed down to the bus on one side and have lugs on the other. The main breakers look almost identical, but are subtly different. They seem to be considered hazardous by some.

    I was able to get one from Bay Breakers in San Jose CA a few years ago ($200).

    Are you willing to replace with used? I don't think they are manufactured any more. I see two on e-bay that look like a match...

    Try googeling combinations of: bulldog, pushmatic, ITE Siemens

    Compared to Zinsco or Stabloc they are just a treat.

    I recently did just this fix on a residential panel, half of the master 100 amp breaker had decided to refuse to conduct under any circumstances.

    My particular panel had the busses from the meter nerve wrackingly close to the can; I called the power company to come out to unlock the meter.

    Other than that, my swap, with a bulldog from Home Despot, went swimmingly.

  15. #15
    DIY Senior Member Homeownerinburb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bartstop View Post
    $53 dude. It's not even worth messing with that old Push-o-Matic panel.

    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-...VP5/100197589#
    He is reluctant to pull the permit and comply with all the additional costs of the upgrade, I think.

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