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Thread: TPR Valve--can I use flexible copper tubing?

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member jmoser's Avatar
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    Default TPR Valve--can I use flexible copper tubing?

    I am replacing my 1999 40gal NG WH, and its located in a closet. I'm trying to plan how the new tank will fit.

    the biggest challenge is going to be that the new TPR valve will be higher from the ground than the one on my old tank. So connecting the new TPR to the existing pipe isn't going to be "plug and play".

    #1--Can I use a 3/4" flexible tubing to make that connection? currently it is 3/4" rigid copper, and I will need to reconfigure that pipe if it has to be rigid. Flexible would be so much easier.

    #2--I'm looking at going with a Rheem Fury. Haven't checked exactly which models are available locally, but I want to buy locally, not online, if I can. From reading in this forum, I was planning to go with a standard 6yr warranty model. People talk about buying the Rheem Fury with the extended protection warranty--and they say that that Rheem ships better anodes, which the homeowner installs (replacing the original ones) before installing the tank. ??? does this make any sense? would you recommend it?
    I'm pretty happy getting 14 years on my current WH which was an American Water Heater Proline from HDepot, with no problems at all...

    I appreciate your expert advice...
    Last edited by Terry; 12-01-2013 at 06:21 PM.

  2. #2
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    It needs to be rigid.
    If you don't want to learn how to sweat copper, you can use threaded galvanized water pipe and fittings.

  3. #3
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    quote; . So connecting the new TPR to the existing pipe isn't going to be "plug and play".

    It almost never is when the two heaters are more than a few years apart in age. Codes specify "rigid" piping the full size of the relief valve discharge.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

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    DIY Senior Member JerryR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hj View Post
    quote; . So connecting the new TPR to the existing pipe isn't going to be "plug and play".

    It almost never is when the two heaters are more than a few years apart in age. Codes specify "rigid" piping the full size of the relief valve discharge.
    My 2001 west coast Florida home was piped with CPVC for cold, hot and TPR. Would that be considered "rigid"?
    JR

  5. #5
    DIY Junior Member jmoser's Avatar
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    thanks. guess I'll need to sweat the pipe. Its been many years since I did that, and with my little propane cylinder torch it seemed to take FOREVER to finally melt the solder. Is there a product that is more efficient that is still affordable for the home diy-er? I'll search this process on line. the problem with sweating the pipe is that the workspace between wall and tank is very small....
    I appreciate your responses

  6. #6
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    the problem with sweating the pipe is that the workspace between wall and tank is very small....
    Put the flame right on the pipe and fitting. Hit more than one side. It has to heat evenly.
    Clean pipe, flux, then solder it up.
    Propane is fine for home use. Just be patient. I use Mapp, but then I sometimes have to heat larger pipe.

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