I use compression shutoffs. No soldering. Just slip them on the copper pipe, and snug up with a wrench.
Compression on the left, and iron pipe threads on the right.
I am replacing 4 sink shut off valves. The copper pipe coming from the wall is too short on some of them. What do you do to fix this? I have sweated on threaded copper ends at my house but would rather not sweat anything here since it is so close to the wall. If it's the best way, I guess I will have to do it buy surely there are other (reliable) ways.
Questions: what kind of shut off valve were the old ones? did you cut them off (and shorten the tube doing so?).
The trouble with compression valves is that you may not have enough tube out.
Last edited by dj2; 11-18-2013 at 08:54 PM.
everything is real corroded. The old compression shut off's are still on as of right now but I will really have to sand everything off to clean up the paint and green and rust. I had to scrape just to see any metal. I didn't know if I could get the Ferrell off or if I would have to cut it off. These shutoffs are the better valves.
Last edited by Johnvickib; 11-18-2013 at 09:11 PM.
personally, i would remove the old compression angle stops and sweat on 1/2" MIP adapters if you have enough meat. then use 1/2" IPS angle stops. If I didn't have enough meat for compression stops this would be my choice. I would forget the escutcheons, clean up the copper VERY well, and just sweat on the MIP's. If you have ferrules that are stuck, you can buy a cheap ferrule puller at home depot or carefully use a tiny hacksaw to cut them off. otherwise, you can open the wall and make some new stub-outs. keep us posted.
Thanks for all the advice. I will probably replace these tomorrow evening, just like to be ready for all the possibilities before I start. I bought a ferrule puller today. I am replacing the sinks with pedestal sinks. I will try the compression stops first, if that doesn't work I will go ahead and sweat the 1/2" MIP adapters (I used to sweat A/C lines in new office building so I am very familiar with it).
Since you mentioned a pedestal sink, it will be wise to open the wall and re-do the plumbing inside, then finish the wall and install the pedestal sink in place, to avoid future failures.
Again..........I would use a sleeve puller, pull the back nut off, replace the esctucheon and install a new compression shutoff. We're talking a $25.00 tool and no damage to the wall.
Or you can take a torch and play around with burning the wall board.
I don't see a drain in the correct location though. Like mentioned above, you may want to open the wall and rearrange things in the wall.
I got the supply lines replaced. I really appreciate the advice, I did get a sleeve puller and it solved my hate of compression fittings. That part went very smooth and no leaks thanks to the advice here!
I do need to extend the p-trap 3 inches from the wall and wonder if the current p-trap from wall is solvent attached? How do I replace that? I put that part off until this weekend and will cut into the wall if I need to (tips appreciated).The current sinks are just mounted to the wall and are from 1981.
Thanks Terry, I think I will try that!!
Try using a hacksaw and first, cut the 90 off, leaving the hub on the pipe in the wall. Then, use the blade to cut nearly through what's left in several places parallel with the pipe with maybe a 1/2-1" between the two cuts. Stick something like a screwdriver blade in the saw kerf, and see if you can split the section of fitting off. If that works, you can make more small sections, then split them off. Try not to cut into the pipe.
If you need to move the trap for the new sink, just open up the wall and don't worry about trying to save the stub.
If splitting it off doesn't work, they make special tools to ream the pipe out of the hub that is likely in the wall (RamBit is one brand). Then, you'd just glue a new stub in the cleaned out hub, and continue from there. You may want to use a Desanko (tubular pipe adapter) on the stub, and use tubular from there - it would make taking it off again simple.
Important note - I'm not a pro
Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013
I finally got everything replaced after working around an ice storm and no power for almost 2 days. I took a little advice from everyone's tips, I really appreciate this forum. I was able to cut the traps and put in a solvent fitting that was threaded on the other end and then put in a p-trap kit. Everyone was happy with it, especially after I painted the walls around it. Once again, I appreciate everyone's help, thank you Terry for the great forum!!
Last edited by Terry; 11-30-2013 at 03:05 PM.