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Thread: Stop me before I glue this up

  1. #16
    DIY Junior Member nomadlogo's Avatar
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    Nice... Any other issues that standout or does it look ready for glue (some testing), backfill, and some concrete?

  2. #17
    DIY Senior Member asktom's Avatar
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    I think I would have tied the floor drain in with a 3X2 wye between B & H (with K an 1/8) and run back parallel to J with a vent back there (combo rolled to an 1/8) so it was vented before and tied in past the toilet vent. What you have should work (if you fix the shower vent & use a LS 1/4 as mentioned above) but don't think it meets the letter of the law, depending on what the law is in your burg. (Note: I am a UPC guy). Is the floor drain going to have a trap primer? Are you going to dump the furnace condensate into it? I notice nary a cleanout.

  3. #18
    DIY Junior Member nomadlogo's Avatar
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    asktom - My previous pictures shows the long sweep 90 for the shower drain, so I think i am to the workable stage. Is your reasoning for moving the floor drain to closer in line to eliminate the concern that the toilet would be siphoning the trap? I was under the impression the toilet vent being behind the toilet would make it more likely it sucks air than siphons the trap. As for the floor drain, I will drain the furnace into it so it should keep the trap full all year (high efficiency so drips in the winter and A/C in summer + humidifier).

    As for clean-outs, it goes right into the ejector pit on the left so there is a big 4" clean-out there I will also put a cleanout in the lav and toilet vents, but that is work after the ground is closed back in with cement.

  4. #19
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    Personally, I would delete the floor drain.
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  5. #20
    DIY Junior Member nomadlogo's Avatar
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    Tom Sawyer - At the moment I have no other good alternative for the HVAC condensate to go other than the floor drain. Are you saying delete it due to the connection being after the toilet?

  6. #21
    DIY Junior Member bruceha2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nomadlogo View Post
    Tom Sawyer - At the moment I have no other good alternative for the HVAC condensate to go other than the floor drain.
    Maybe a condensate pump?? It doesn't need a big drain line and can go quite a distance. I need to put one under my new furnace in a crawl space and the plumber said to run it back to the P trap he put in the main waste line for the water heater in the basement near where the main exits to the septic tank rather than add a P trap in the main drain (2 bathrooms one above the other) by the furnace. It will have to run ~ 35' to 40' to get to that trap. He would have done it but when I said I could get one for ~ $40, no shipping charges he agreed that his company wouldn't sell me one for that price. This is a DIY thing, I just have to attach the drain hose along the main drain pipe. Lots cheaper than paying him $60 an hour plus parts markup.

    Bruce

  7. #22
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    I do not have the advantage of seeing the room orientation, but I might try to change it by moving the horizontal line "down" so the lav could be revised to become the shower vent. This also might not be possible, but around here, we would run the condensate in the wall over to the lav and connect the condensate into a branch tailpiece above the trap.
    Last edited by hj; 11-16-2013 at 06:17 AM.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  8. #23
    DIY Senior Member asktom's Avatar
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    I didn't mean you should move the floor drain, just change the configuration so that both it and the toilet were vented before the drains connected. What you have will work fine, but, where I have worked, I don't think the inspector would buy it as is. Actually, I agree with HJ about the condensate line. I just threw out the clean-out comment because no mention had been made of them - your answer was reasonable.

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