Help with shower faucet system

Hello all, new to the forum and was hoping to get some help with a bathroom remodel. I'm wanting to put in a basic shower/tub set up with the addition of a hand shower on a sliding rod. I considered the Moen M-Dura commercial system, which is exactly the components I need, but I really like the look of some Pfister stuff, and chose the following components:

Tub & shower trim R89-8TUK
Thermostatic valve TX8-340A
Diverter valve trim R79-600K
Diverter valve 016-600A
Handshower 016-300K

I think this will probably work, the only thing is the tub spout in the tub & shower trim kit is a diverter type, which I will have to replace with a non-diverting due to the 3 way diverter valve, I think. Any opinions or advice from experience would be great!

Thanks in advance.

Ok, after some research, I have a new question. On a typical shower/tub set up with diverter spout, I'm assuming the valve outlets are designed the way they are so that the pipe up to the showerhead drains out of the diverter spout when the valve shuts water off, is this correct? If so, is it bad to have a non diverting spout with water going through the thermostatic valve, an in wall diverter valve, then to either the showerhead or tub spout? I could see an issue with never draining the showerhead pipe.

I could see an issue with never draining the showerhead pipe.

Click to expand...

It's not an issue.
That water will be gone in the first few seconds the next time the shower is used.

There are a number of ways to use diverters. It's all good.

Thanks very much, it is appreciated!

You can use either spout depending on HOW you would normally use the tub. If you usually fill the tub, the diverter spout is more convenient because then you just have to turn on the valve. If you use either shower mainly, then a regular spout with the diverter valve is better because you can leave it set for your primary usage. HOWEVER, if you DO use the regular spout connected to the diverter valve, then run the pipe from the valve to the diverter from the "TUB" opening on the valve to get maximum flow, (I usually invert the valve so I do not have to run the pipe around the valve to get up to the diverter).

Thanks for the tip on flipping the valve, good to know! Does any one here have any experience with a Pfister TX8-340A valve? That's what I ordered, this thing is really deep, I will barely be able to fit it in the wall behind the tile, just wondering if anyone has done one, how they work after install, etc. Many thanks in advance.

Edit the Pfister TX8-310A is essentially the same, I think, just without stops.

To the manufacturer, if the trim fits, it's an okay installation. You, on the other hand, may not like the look! With a deep unit, and not enough room to recess the valve, you may find that the handle sticks out quite a ways. The instructions will list a min/max of where the body must be for the trim to fit - I highly suggest you temporarily mock it up to see where YOU like the trim/handle look, then try to get the valve body installed at that depth in the wall. There is no fix other than moving the valve if it sticks too far out, and on some, there are extensions if it's too deep, but those are at fixed length, and again, may make it stick out further than you want. It can be frustrating.

Thanks Jim, I did some mock up today, and I'm really running in to a problem with room on the right side of where the valve needs to be, hj suggested mounting the valve upside down for use with no diverter valve, so I wonder if I can mount it 90 deg from normal, with the supply lines vertical? This would allow me to put the plugged outlet from the valve to the right, solving many problems! I see no reason why this would be bad, but then again I'm no expert at all, any thoughts on mounting the valve sideways?