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Thread: New Square D pressure switch, was perfect 40-60 now 40-52 and unable to raise cut off

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member Funk49's Avatar
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    Default New Square D pressure switch, was perfect 40-60 now 40-52 and unable to raise cut off

    Hi guys, I recently replaced my 20 gallon water pressure tank and installed a new Square D pressure switch. I went from a 30-50 to a 40-60psi model.

    I installed a brand new T pipe connecting the new water tank, put on a new pressure gauge, new pipe nipple to pressure switch, etc.

    When I first powered on my well pump every thing was perfect (as far as the pressure switch).
    I won't go into the brand new water tank that has a slow leak in the bladder unless someone thinks it's relevant to this scenario.
    I just received my warranty replacement and will be installing it soon.

    Let's assume the pressure tank is fine for this question and was filled to 38 psi (it holds it steady for a couple weeks then slowly goes down).

    The guage and pressure switch showed perfect cut in at 40 psi and perfect cut off at 60 psi for the first week or so.

    Then I noticed that the pressure gauge was showing cut off at 52 psi.

    I tried over and over to adjust nut adjustment #2 clockwise to bring the cut off pressure back to 60 psi but it wouldn't.
    On one cycle it appeared as though it might be increasing to 54 psi so I kept threading it clockwise and the next cycle it's back to 52 psi.

    What is going on? This is driving me crazy! I am about half way down the threaded adjustment with still a little spring room but I'm hesitant to even try and adjust it anymore.
    It doesn't seem to matter, it won't bring that cut off back up.

    Can there really be a some sort of blockage in the pipe nipple after the new piping and everything?
    Regardless of the slow leak defective tank, shouldn't the pressure switch be reading the pressure at the switch and shutting off at 60 psi like it was?

    Why won't it move past 52 psi now?

    Last night I drained the tank completely and pressurized the tank to 38 psi (checked with air gauge). Turned on the pump and back to 40 - 52 psi. It's the pressure switch shutting off the well pump, I don't think there's an issue with the well pump.

    I doubt I have a bad pressure switch and although I'm just buying time until I have to spend another Saturday swapping the tank out for the new replacement, the pressure tank should be fine for a little while after I drain it and top off the pressure to 38 psi right?
    It takes about three or four weeks until the bladder starts to show the slow air leak.

    Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    DIY Senior Member thassler's Avatar
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    Could the gauge be just hanging at 52? When the gauge reads 52 have you checked the psi at the pressure tank, does it read ~52 also?
    TreyH
    ** Not a professional - only a DIYr **

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member Funk49's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thassler View Post
    Could the gauge be just hanging at 52? When the gauge reads 52 have you checked the psi at the pressure tank, does it read ~52 also?
    No I don't think it is. It is brand new and seems to operate fine slowly going with the pressure then click goes the pressure switch.

    I haven't measured the pressure at the tank bladder after pressurizing it but wouldn't it be 52 psi + 38 psi (already in the bladder)?

  4. #4
    DIY Senior Member thassler's Avatar
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    The tank pressure should follow your gauge unless the pump quits and the tank empties; then it would read the 38psi you pressurized it at.
    TreyH
    ** Not a professional - only a DIYr **

  5. #5
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Funk49 View Post
    ...but wouldn't it be 52 psi + 38 psi (already in the bladder)?
    No, it would be what the water pressure is. Just because a gauge is new does not rule it out as bad. Same for the pressure switch. They are cheap enough that you could swap it out if suspect.

  6. #6
    DIY Senior Member craigpump's Avatar
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    I'd say the gauge is bad..

    Keep cranking down on the pressure switch and you may turn your tank into a rocket

  7. #7
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    The gauge may be mounted at the wrong location. Where is the T ?

    The air filling valve should have a cap on it so that it does not leak air.

    Cranking the pressure limit is not a good fix.


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  8. #8
    DIY Junior Member Funk49's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LLigetfa View Post
    No, it would be what the water pressure is. Just because a gauge is new does not rule it out as bad. Same for the pressure switch. They are cheap enough that you could swap it out if suspect.
    Thanks for the responses, just a follow up in case anyone in the future has the same issue. It was the new pressure switch. I tried uninstalling it and checking for debris at the inlet that may have been affecting the pressure reading of the switch and although it was a little stained with rust looking sediment, I did not find anything visible. I cleaned it out the best I could with a Qtip, reinstalled the switch and the same problem. I purchased another new switch and the issue was finally resolved, lesson learned. It's been about a month now and all is well.
    Pressure gauge was working like it should and installed at the correct location on the T pipe.

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