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Thread: Kitchen p-trap/sink/pipe/drain predicament

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member in need of help's Avatar
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    Default Kitchen p-trap/sink/pipe/drain predicament

    This was done by a certified plumber. A home inspector advised me that i have no p-trap. Went back to the plumber and he reassured me that he created one and due to the distance this was the best he could do. I accepted it not knowing better. Recently sewee gasses have been backing up into the home so called the city inspector and they advised me i need a p-trap amongst other things. I have done my research but am not 100% sure on what to purchase or hot to properly assemble the pipes to have a proper p-trap installed. I feel the sink drain is too low for the wall drain. Not sure how to get a p-trap in there. I have attached a picture. Any suggestions? Name:  20131022_171732.jpg
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    TROJAN WORLDWIDE SALES RP MACPLUMB 777's Avatar
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    You have a trap just not a p trap! Not was not installed by a plumber just a handihack! You have to start back at the wall where that copper pipe comes from
    and lower the drain in the wall and the bring it back under the cabinet with a real
    p trap!

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    DIY Senior Member dj2's Avatar
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    Your plumber is certified? by whom?

    Anyway, the wall drain is too high - lower it and install a P trap.

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    Master Plumber Caduceus's Avatar
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    The basket strainers are a bit deep and by having a more shallow type strainer installed could get you more elevation for the p-traps and drainage piping. But it is definitely true that that is not a p-trap. Some certified plumbers will do shoddy work to save time and money.
    The way I would do it is to cut open the wall and lower the drain. A p-trap could then be installed on each of the sink bowls. If the venting of the traps is an issue, each trap could be equipped with it's own approved auto vent. It also looks like there is a dishwasher discharge connection on the drain that is not connected or plugged off. If the wall cannot be cut open, then by using the shallow basket strainers that I mentioned and the auto vents for each trap, you could still have the proper installation.
    Of course we don't really expect you to do the work since you already paid a plumber to do it, but maybe printing a copy of this thread and showing the plumber it will remind him of how things should be done.
    Don't give up on this problem, plumbing inspectors are there to look out for your health and safety and keep tabs on poor plumbing practice.


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    Last edited by Terry; 11-04-2013 at 08:07 PM.

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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    The "design" of a drain determines whether you have a "P" trap or not, and since yours IS a "P", you do have a P trap, but it is an assembled one, not a premade design. Your drain is a candidate for a two trap installation, because there is no way to connect the two drains together and still be above the wall pipe.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

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    DIY Junior Member in need of help's Avatar
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    Thank you all for ur remarks and suggestions. They guy who did the nstall is licenaed and worka for Always Plumbing. I wont discredit the company because of one plumbers make shift p-trap. I will see about lowerirthe drain and putting in a manufactured p-trap. Thanks again!

  7. #7
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Did you see what I said about TWO "P" TRAPS, so you would not have to go to the expense of lowering the drain line, if it were even possible in your situation.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

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    DIY Member hboogz's Avatar
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    hj -- trying to shore up my knowledge. In the event that a drain is that high, it's always best to install a P-trap for each sink and, if possible, use shorter strainer's ?

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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Your drain is a candidate for a two trap installation, because there is no way to connect the two drains together and still be above the wall pipe.
    What he is saying here, You're boxed in a corner and this may be your only option.

    If the drain in the wall is vertical, you can cut in the tee lower.
    If it's horizontal, you may have to pull cabinets out until you find that vertical piece.
    Or..........you can arm over from where it is now, wye off for the second trap and get it done as best you can.
    Right now, most of the mess that is under there is under water, all the time.

  10. #10
    DIY Member hboogz's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info.

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