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Thread: Hello-And Re-Route Questions to move toilet

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member Chuck H.'s Avatar
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    Default Hello-And Re-Route Questions to move toilet

    Hello, all. I'm re-doing a mobile home bathroom. No water damage, but rather a renovation. The issue is the toilet flange location. Due to a small room size and not very good options for MH bathing, I'm going with a shower. The shower (32x32 alcove) is still wider than the 27" tub, so it's throwing the sink and toilet off somewhat. The sink is no problem to find a spot.

    My plan is to angle the toilet 45 degrees and make a wall behind it for the tank/water supply. Now, angling the toilet means I have very tight room to work with for the tank. The seat would project out quite well and have no space conflict. So, I would have to find a toilet with a very narrow tank and 10" rough to make it even come close. to using the existing pipe.

    The room is gutted and I could cut out a piece of floor at the joists. My questions is it OK to cut down the pipe and put two fittings in it to move the pipe to a better location? And if so, it would end up offset from the central pipe run as well. I'm aware of offset flanges, but read that they're generally not liked. And IDK if one would be enough to do the job. It probably would expand my choice in toilet, as well. Right now, the best and least-costly toilet option is either a Caroma Adelaide or Caravelle-and the tank itself would still be very constricted, even if the seat isn't.

    Thanks for your help. And if there's any follow-up questions, please ask.

  2. #2
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    "Legally" the size of the tank is not a consideration, because you are supposed to have at least 15" clearance from the center on BOTH sides so even a 30" tank would fit. But, since mobile homes have their own set of standards that may not apply. You use whatever fittings are necessary to move the toilet's location.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    The Caroma Adelaide is 29-5/8" long. Moving the rough does not make the bowl shorter.

    American Standardard makes a corner toilet
    http://www.americanstandard-us.com/t...iangle-toilet/

    http://www.americanstandard-us.com/a...Sheet_2588.pdf

    I would figure out which toilet you are going with, have it on site, and then do your measurements.

    Last edited by Terry; 11-02-2013 at 01:25 PM.

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    DIY Senior Member Reach4's Avatar
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    I did some calculations. If I assumed a toilet flange centered 12 inches from each wall, and you want the toilet rotated 45 degrees, here are some calculations of the available width for the tank at various rough-in sizes:

    rough _ _ max width
    12 _ _ 9.94 in
    10 _ _ 13.94 in
    9.5 _ _ 14.94 in
    9.25 _ _ 15.44 in

    I know they don't sell a "9.5 inch rough-in" toilet. That would refer to a "10" which would have had 0.5 inch clearance to a wall.

    I presumed a rectangular back for calculations. A curved edge would work in your favor. If you want me to plug in some different numbers, say so. I think my numbers are correct, but I do make mistakes.

    Here is my formula:
    max tank width= 2*((sqrt(2)*Rf)-Rt)

    where
    Rf = actual floor rough-in measurement
    Rt = rough in for toilet adjusted
    sqrt(2) =1.414
    Last edited by Reach4; 11-02-2013 at 09:19 PM.

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    DIY Junior Member Chuck H.'s Avatar
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    HJ-Thanks. That gives me options.

    Mr. Love-Thanks for this forum. It's been helpful in research. The only constricted area for a toilet would be the tank area. Neither the length itself nor the area around the bowl "seating room" would be confined. Name:  Untitled.jpg
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    I made a poor and unscaled diagram in Paint. This will help illustrate the proposed layout and why either the tank dimension with existing rough-in location or a slight relocation is necessary. That little clipped corner in the nexus of the shower/linen storage/toilet area is because I'm trying to keep the shower entry open. That small an offset keeps the rough-in (but needs the very narrow tank. Squaring the clipped corner and going 45 degrees to the partition wall on the right means moving the pipe to get even a 10" rough.

    Reach4- that 10" rough figure is about what I have calculated. I came up with that by laying out lines and using the old toilet (12" rough model) to mock-up things. The shower pan won't be here until Tuesday, so until I have a chance to mock-up framing and shower valve depth requirement, I won't know if I might have a little more room instead of allocating the clipped-corner 36" square (the shower is 32x32). I already know I'll need to frame on the valve side (L wall) since the existing studs are 2x3s. So we'll see how that affects the R shower wall framing. Thank you for your time in calculating the width requirements.

    I believe between the information I have received, I've enough to go on. Again, if there's anything else, please ask.

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    DIY Senior Member Reach4's Avatar
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    My calculations were for a regular toilet angled into a corner. This is what I was picturing:
    Name:  hugecor.png
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    Last edited by Reach4; 11-02-2013 at 09:37 PM.

  7. #7
    DIY Junior Member Chuck H.'s Avatar
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    That's why I made the diagram, in case anything didn't make sense. The numbers would be the same, even if the location was different. My drawing doesn't really indicate the scale of how the tank would be confined, but the bowl would be quite open in area.

    I believe I don't have a lot of good options unless I move some plumbing. In the drawing, as the toilet sits, it would utilize the existing pipe. This is approximately how it was configured before gutting

    Name:  Untitled.jpg
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  8. #8
    DIY Senior Member Reach4's Avatar
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    If you are moving the toilet flange, you could located it to whatever rough-in distance you want. So if you chose 11.5 inches, you would have a lot of 12 inch rough-in toilets available where you are making the tank to wall distance smaller.

    Your new design will make things feel roomer, except it is not clear how you access the storage. Maybe that will be through a new opening in the upper-right wall to the adjacent room.

  9. #9
    DIY Junior Member Chuck H.'s Avatar
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    The towel/linen storage area would be a boxed opening. The shower wall on the right (unplumbed side) would be the left side. The partition wall that the toilet roughs off of remains and would be the right side. Ceiling is top and the bottom of the nook would be a shelf a bit higher than the toilet tank (height to be determined). Standing between the proposed toilet location and the shower in that approximate clipped corner area means it'd be no deeper than the alcove; no more than 36".

    More and more, I'm certain moving the pipe will be the way to go. It will free-up the toilet tank and enable buying an ordinary 12" rough two-piece model. I've got depth between frame rails to use a couple of eighth-bends to make a gentle offset and bring the pipe back plumb. A new 3" sanitary tee in the trunk pipe set on a 45-degree and another 45 to bring back vertical would maybe be another option.

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