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Thread: Ionics 1030B is having issues installed around 2000

  1. #46
    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
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    Thanks, Gary... Looks good, but not my idea of cheap. Guess I'll stick with the Shop-Vac, or maybe build my own extractor in my spare time, if I ever get any.

  2. #47
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Yeah ditto likes to spend other peoples' money, based on his own income.

    I tried a shop vac way back when but then quit with all the lugging one around and simply leaned the tank over a floor drain or 5 gal bucket and poured the water down some and then picked up the tank and dumped it in 5 gal buckets lined with a salt bag. Then I'd take the buckets outside and lift them out of the bucket and poke holes/cut short slits in them across the bottom and up the sides a few inches and stand them up to drain the water out. To separate resin and gravel I didn't use the salt bag, just the bucket and when outside somewhere where resin could dry and blow away harmlessly, I'd push a garden hose into the bottom of the bucket and float the resin up and out of the bucket leaving the gravel in the bucket to be able to pour it back in the resin tank before or after adding new resin. I always had the control valve in backwash when I turned on the water and during backwash the gravel went to the bottom of the tank. That got rid of all air in the tank too. Then put it in Rinse and compact the bed and I was done.

    That flexible tube extractor is something I wish he had when I was replacing resin etc.. Any of his extractors will remove any mineral.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  3. #48
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    Keep on trolling!

    My business is none of yours, but good try.

    Mikey, we sell a superior exctractor to the one you see in that old video I did or the one that was linked ealier by the troll. It is also about 1/2 the cost. I did not want to waste time editing it because I am supposed to do a video with a much better extractor design when I have time. Things tend to slow down between Christmas and new year, so I may do some more videos then. I sent you a PM, I can email you the drawings of the extractor and I can tell you where to buy it.

  4. #49
    DIY Senior Member lifespeed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Slusser View Post
    I see now you are backing off from your comment about the 7000's 'superior' flow rate being of any benefit to a ordinary/common sized residential softener. See if you can teach Lifespeed to do the same. Also (although I doubt you will) how about explaining the importance of the constant service flow rate of resin in correctly sizing a softener.
    I guess the laws of physics don't apply in your world? Let me explain: when the pipe or valve cross sectional area is decreased the velocity must increase for a given flow rate. This corresponds to a decrease in pressure proportional to flow. And there is the issue of a vigorous, maximally effective backwash in non-softener (GAC and other mineral) applications.

    You can blather on about how the decrease in pressure is small, but it is still a pressure drop. And pressure drops are cumulative over long runs of marginal-sized pipes, elbows, etc. I don't want even a few additional PSI drop in my system. Given the reasonable price and good quality of high-flow valves I find little to no reason to make this compromise.

    But if you want to use an undersized valve in your house go ahead.
    Lifespeed

  5. #50
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lifespeed View Post
    I guess the laws of physics don't apply in your world? Let me explain: when the pipe or valve cross sectional area is decreased the velocity must increase for a given flow rate. This corresponds to a decrease in pressure proportional to flow. And there is the issue of a vigorous, maximally effective backwash in non-softener (GAC and other mineral) applications.

    You can blather on about how the decrease in pressure is small, but it is still a pressure drop. And pressure drops are cumulative over long runs of marginal-sized pipes, elbows, etc. I don't want even a few additional PSI drop in my system. Given the reasonable price and good quality of high-flow valves I find little to no reason to make this compromise.

    But if you want to use an undersized valve in your house go ahead.
    Yeah yeah yeah LOL it is a very rare house that has a constant water pressure. Most have a high enough pressure that 1-3 fixtures can be used without causing a problem but there is a pressure loss as son as one fixture is used.

    And here you and others are telling people with smaller than 1.25" ID plumbing to buy a 1.25" control valve, and 32mm distributor tube, so they have less pressure loss EVEN IF ONLY A LB OR THREE!!!

    If you go look at any control valve spec sheet (that's for the control valve alone, not a whole softener) and find the pressure and flow ratings. Do you have any idea of what they mean or how they are supposed to used, or why they are published? If so educate me. Get ditto to help you if you need to (he refuses to say why so far).

    BTW, there is a pressure loss when the 3/4" water flow goes into your 1.25" valve and dist. tube and then again when your 1.25" water flow is pushed into the 3/4" plumbing after the softener. Is that loss more, less, or equal to 3/4" throughout? How about a 1" water line before and after your 1.25" valve and dist. tube? Do you know or are you guessing because of your fear it might be more in either case?
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  6. #51
    DIY Junior Member KimbaWLion's Avatar
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    OKAY then here is where it stand now. They want the resin tested to make sure its shot. I was also told that Ionics NEVER used Gravel in there tanks anyway
    even though the new one uses silica bed "to polish" the water....
    This is the long and the short of it. They resin is being tested to see if it is shot. I think after almost 14 years of chlorinated city water, it really shouldn't matter, BUT here is the catch and its a HUGE one.
    Even though they know I am an original owner they want my original sales receipt from almost 14 years ago to prove I am the original owner! They KNOW I am by the serial number as it was registered the day I got it!
    So now I have to go through a LOT of files JUST to find the original receipt which I have SOMEWHERE in a file box...

    This what they are going to do for me now, they are going to price all avenues for me.
    1. Price of a new valve vs. fixing the Ionics 2510 which is already almost decided to fix the 2510 since I am pretty sure I gain nothing by changing out.
    If there are reasons to change vs. rebuilding let me know.
    2. If I find my receipt and the bed is covered that is that. IF I can not find my receipt I have to make up my mind if I want to add 1.0 Cu.Ft. or 1.5 and add gravel
    I think given my water hardness I maybe better off with just the 1.0 plus some gravel but we'll see.
    3. I have to get a price for the GAC tank from them. I have to stay tuned until Monday now...
    I may NOT be the best guy BUT I am NOT the bad guy! -Coop from Megas XLR

  7. #52
    DIY Senior Member lifespeed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KimbaWLion View Post
    . . . They want the resin tested to make sure its shot. I was also told that Ionics NEVER used Gravel in there tanks anyway
    even though the new one uses silica bed "to polish" the water....
    This is the long and the short of it. They resin is being tested to see if it is shot. I think after almost 14 years of chlorinated city water, it really shouldn't matter, BUT here is the catch and its a HUGE one.
    Even though they know I am an original owner they want my original sales receipt from almost 14 years ago to prove I am the original owner! They KNOW I am by the serial number as it was registered the day I got it!
    So now I have to go through a LOT of files JUST to find the original receipt which I have SOMEWHERE in a file box...
    LOL, isn't that typical? The warranty isn't worth the paper it is written on when you go to collect. I learned a long time ago to be skeptical of warranties, especially certain types. Tire mileage warranties are a good example, but there are many others.

    Best of luck,
    Lifespeed

  8. #53
    DIY Junior Member KimbaWLion's Avatar
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    What can say we'll see how it goes not much else I can do. The Servicer is pretty sympathetic to me and is trying to do the right thing
    by me as best they can. I like them and having been around since 1958 says a lot about them too...
    They gave been servicing Ionics since 2004 when the other company mysteriously disappeared...
    I AM going to hunt for that that receipt. I KNOW my wife put it somewhere... Doesn't everybody keep over 13 year old pink
    3 copies of their receipts?

    Either way I am glad I found this forum and appreciate everybody's input!
    Last edited by KimbaWLion; 11-09-2013 at 08:35 AM.
    I may NOT be the best guy BUT I am NOT the bad guy! -Coop from Megas XLR

  9. #54
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    LOL, Lifespeed, you make some great points but some people dont believe in education, training, certifications, licenses, insurance etc.. They only beleive in trolling and making baseless claims or better yet, when they really make some lame statements, they will go onto personal attacks , or even start chasing you all over the internet or they will start to divulge personal information as so many of us have seen already. It is sad that someone with a small amount of knowledge and occassional good advice has this strange desire to argue every point regardless of facts. Velocities calculations, code compliance, Capillary restriction affects etc. dont even exist in some peoples minds. And like you said, since their is no disadvantage to a higher flow rate valve, the only reason to argue the point is for arguments sake. Most would call it trolling.
    Last edited by ditttohead; 11-08-2013 at 03:39 PM.

  10. #55
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    Hack it in, cash the check, move the motor home LOL
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

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