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Thread: Ionics 1030B is having issues installed around 2000

  1. #16
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    The brass brine valve on the control valve is failing. This is common after 10 years. It needs to be replaced.

  2. #17
    DIY Junior Member KimbaWLion's Avatar
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    Well that makes it sound easy to fix.
    Anyway the person to evaluate the system and test my water is coming over Tuesday. I will suggest this if he does not see this, though my guess is he will.
    I want to make sure my water has not changed too much and that my 30K water softener is enough, if it stays at 13 Grains it is.

    I am also looking into Mediaguard KDF 55 instead of the silver carbon that I have not replaced in years instead. Anybody here have any experience with it?
    Am I going to assume my resin is still good after all this time?

    @ditttohead Thanks for the info it is appreciated, I'll get to find out if these guys know what they are doing and in the past its been okay....
    I may NOT be the best guy BUT I am NOT the bad guy! -Coop from Megas XLR

  3. #18
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    I do not like the Mediaguard and your tank may not allow the addition of it because the resin is probably higher than 'normal' but, why do you want one?
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  4. #19
    DIY Junior Member KimbaWLion's Avatar
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    I was thinking of adding to get rid of the Chlorine in my water vs adding Carbon since the Mediaguard is "suppose" to last 6 yrs give or take and they make it look easy to install.
    I tend to over think a lot and when I see "new" things that could make things a little easier I consider them. Your input is always welcomed and I would
    bet you're MORE then Probable right. I am worried about my resin because it is going on 14 years old... I want to get everything done at once as well as right.
    I hate double work...
    I may NOT be the best guy BUT I am NOT the bad guy! -Coop from Megas XLR

  5. #20
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    You should not mix carbon and resin. You can buy new resin online for like $125 per cuft. You can buy a shower head filter to remove chlorine from the shower and a disposable cartridge (carbon) water filter for after the softener.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  6. #21
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    The media guard is one of the best, and worst items in this industry. It works very well if it is installed correctly and maintained properly. Unfortunately, I have been to way to many places that had them installed improperly and they caused a lot of problems.

    The most important part of the media guard is that it must have the DLFC adjusted correctly. And they will flow much past 10 GPM. Assuming a water temperature of 65 degrees, the DLFC should be adjusted to 4.0-4.5 GPM. A standard 10" tank will be set at 2.4 GPM, this is too low for the media guard to self clean, and it will fail in a short amount of time. They should be changed out every 3-5 years maximum. Remember, these only 3-4 pounds of media inside of them, that is a tiny amount of media for a POE residential application. Even at that small amount,they are surprisingly effective. I can understand Garys and many peoples reluctance to selling the Media guard. Too many people did not know how to use them properly or misapplied them and they will restrict flow rates etc. Many people see that they reduce chlorine, and then expect the media guard to work after chlorine injection...

    I recommend it on smaller houses only, up to 2 bathrooms max. Change it every 3 years max, use the proper DLFC, and they are actually quite good. But if someone says not to use it, I would not argue with them either.

    I doubt the media guard could be added to your existing system. We sell a huge number of media guards and have had nearly zero problems in the past 5 years with them,

  7. #22
    DIY Junior Member KimbaWLion's Avatar
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    I remember the first time I had my Silver carbon replaced by the Ionics repair person. He poured it RIGHT in the top of the head!
    So I figured on my unit that was what you did. The Media guard looked to me on the surface to be a neat and inexpensive way to kill 2
    stones in one shot pretty cost effectively. I mean you see my install with the vertical bypass mount. I think the only way to add a separate carbon
    filter would be to get some pex and some shark bytes... When the Softener Service comes out and rechecks my water as well as my install. We'll see what he has to say.
    From what I see posted here either a brass brine valve repair and/or a clogged jet should be reasonable. I would hope the resin is still good but time will tell with that.

    Having seen my plain jane setup any suggestions would be appreciated too. Be it looks like it will be pretty straight forward to fix.
    I really did not want to have to buy a WHOLE new unit unless that really is the best way to go. As I was reading on different threads the Vortech is not all its cracked up to be...

    @Gary thanks for your input experience beats it looks new and shiny anytime!
    @Dittohead your info from experience fills in the messing Gaps on web pages!
    I may NOT be the best guy BUT I am NOT the bad guy! -Coop from Megas XLR

  8. #23
    DIY Junior Member KimbaWLion's Avatar
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    Well today is the day the Softener service comes out to look at it. HOPEFULLY it will not be that bad. IF so I'll end up getting something else... I can get whole new 40K unit with a Fleck 7000 SXT valve etc. for $519 delivered.
    Ionics uses a "custom" 2510 and very few parts are interchangeable, Hell the Tank has is own custom thread so I can't even switch valves out! I SOOO wish I knew a lot more at the time, guess you live and HOPEFULLY learn... After I get my results I post here and see what the very nice as well as helpful people here think of the choices he is going to give me...
    Last edited by KimbaWLion; 11-05-2013 at 02:08 PM.
    I may NOT be the best guy BUT I am NOT the bad guy! -Coop from Megas XLR

  9. #24
    DIY Junior Member KimbaWLion's Avatar
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    The guy JUST left first my water results:
    4ppm Nitrate, 107ppm/6.25 grains of hardness, 330 TDS, .11 Chlorine, 7.3 Ph, 83ppm Alkalinity, 0 Iron, 0 Copper, <10 CO2

    He also took at look at things to see what was what since all it takes is a 5/16 nut driver to take the cover and gasket off and look at the injector and filter screen.
    He cleaned those, which did look pretty clean and while all the pieces were out, blew some water through the system to make sure any dirt was knocked out.
    Everything was put back and re-tightened. He then look at my float assembly which seems to be stuck, salt may have gotten under it and bridged it stuck (he told me to check and clear it sometime after the regeneration), he also checked out the brine tube connection etc. We started a regeneration to see if it now worked. He checked the suction of the brine tube, which it NOW has, and the water in my brine tank is now draining and doing a proper regeneration.

    Since the Resin is 14 year old he feels it may be time to redo it, given the chlorine has been running through it all this time. He left me a soap hardness test to check it later. Ionics has a lifetime guarantee on their resin so it would be covered since he is a real Ionics servicer. They just have to sample it and send it in to prove its ionics resin. He commented that maybe putting in a carbon filter to remove the chlorine so I would not have to worry about the resin again for the foreseeable future.

    All in all I would say I got off REALLY easy. The charge to check my water was free BUT since he DID spend a BIT of time here checking out my system and actually taking some things a part and spending close to 1.5 hours here. I wrote out a check for $100 dollars to the company and thanked him for all his time in helping me. He is going to call Ionics up and take what steps need to be taken to rebed my tank on them etc. I'll keep everybody posted as this proceeds...
    Last edited by KimbaWLion; 11-05-2013 at 05:32 PM.
    I may NOT be the best guy BUT I am NOT the bad guy! -Coop from Megas XLR

  10. #25
    Master Plumber master plumber mark's Avatar
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    so how much is the re-bedding gonna cost you??

    would it not be wiser just to get yourself a new unit after 14 years of service??? Everything looks pretty worn out to
    me just from just looking at the pics you posted..

    The Clack 48,000 grain unit would be a better choice over throwing more money into this ionics system...


    you got off real cheap for 100 bucks... it might be time just to retire that unit before you have to sink some real
    money into that control

  11. #26
    DIY Junior Member KimbaWLion's Avatar
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    Well I am going to call them on Friday about rebedding cost etc. I am pretty sure that IF the resin is replaced by warranty it should be re-bedded at Ionics expense, I'll have answer Friday I HOPE...
    I cleaned up all the salt off the Brine tank, broke up a small salt bridge and now the float is moving properly, the water level is where it belongs now. I regenerated it, twice now to see if the system works. ( And yes I know I need to get more salt the 2 regens polished off what I had left as you can see!) He gave me a very basic hardness test kit. You fill the vile 1/2 way add a drop of the test solution, shake and if you get bubbles your water is soft. I get some bubbles where at the the beginning I had ZERO. I cleaned up what little dirt was on the stainless steel tank and it looks like BRAND new, Ionics may not be a standard thread and size but that tank looks really new shiny now.

    Since regeneration it seems I have developed a small but consistent leak from the brine tube attached at the tank, it was not leaking the other day so I guess after 2 regens, spaced a few hours a part I now have one.
    I should be able to do something about that myself. I'll check into it later here or somebody will chime in when I check back later.

    The Company itself has been around since 1958. They come out and test your water for free and since I was an established customer they gave me no grief at all, PLUS to get a standard service call I would have had to wait for OVER week, they are JUST that busy at the moment. Their water tester is also an installer and he knows the Ionics people personally so he knows who to call. I KNOW how lucky I am for $100, they were NOT even going to charge me, I OFFERED that for all the time he spent here. They are a class act and I trust them to play it straight with me. The tester he uses was some sort of spectrum color reader, he says it does 100s of things as needed actually. He dropped the tablets in a square vial and loaded them up and pressed a button to get the hardness etc.

    He also mentioned at one time they USE to carry an thread adapter for Ionics that let them change the 2 1/4" 16 thread per inch to be able to fit a standard head of 2 1/2" 8 threads per inch, never heard or saw one of those before but IF true I would just get a new valve altogether. Time will tell depending on what Ionics/Purionics wants to do. When I know what my choices are I will post them here and get advice as everybody here has been so good to me considering all my ignorance and how much money this has cost me long term since I went from a Novatek/US Filter to the Ionics etc. The only new thing he DID suggest was carbon filter to remove the chlorine. They make canister household sized ones, Ones that use a Fleck 5600 valve and backwash and they have NO backwashing up flow ones. Any info this would be appreciated so I can see what this is going to cost me and I want to do the RIGHT thing, THIS time...
    Here are some pics after the clean up.

    Name:  Brine connection slight leak.jpg
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    Last edited by KimbaWLion; 11-06-2013 at 02:43 PM.
    I may NOT be the best guy BUT I am NOT the bad guy! -Coop from Megas XLR

  12. #27
    DIY Senior Member lifespeed's Avatar
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    Cool avatar. I used to watch Kimba the White Lion when I was 5. Removing chlorine is nice, best way to do it is with a proper backwashed carbon tank. I like the valves with larger internal ports like Fleck 7000 or Clack WS1. Too bad that nice stainless tank has proprietary threads. But a new fiberglass tank is not a huge expense, valve and resin are the majority of the cost anyway.
    Lifespeed

  13. #28
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    The composite tanks last as long as the stianless steel, if not longer in many applications. Stainless tanks have wleded seems, a common failure point, as well as the domes under the tank have a tendancy to fail in certain conditions. Both tanks should last 20+ years if treated properly.

    A backwashing GAC tank is perfect for taking out chlorine. Simple and cheap.

    Your valve is a great one except for the proprietary nature. A non proprietary valve can be rebuilt by any company and you can shop around for price.

    Even a tiny leak in the brine line will cause the system to have problems, fix it asap. The brine valve in the system is a common wear item. When they atrat to go, they wil lwork intermittently as the spring mechanism start to jam occassionally. better to just replace it every 5-10 years.

  14. #29
    DIY Junior Member KimbaWLion's Avatar
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    @lifespeed Anime is kind of my thing, yeah everybody has something and I am toys R us kid so there you have it. I actually knew the late Billie Lou Watts the voice of Kimba and Astroboy
    I still go to anime cons and I look REALLY young for my age so I blend in pretty good for now...

    @ditttohead I am calling the Company back on Friday. I have a couple of ways to go. A lot of it depends on Ionics. Should they send me the resin under warranty and pay to re-bed I will ask to re-bed a new tank
    and just pay for a new valve, they are not fond of the 7000sxt and prefer the 5600SXT. I have one shower with multi-heads my bathroom DOES have a whirlpool tub so I am pretty sure the 7000sxt is
    a better choice. I also want to add a carbon tank so price is going to the be the over ruling factor in everything. The one GOOD thing is I have a pressure reducer valve and can raise it if need for any
    pressure drops since my home pressure is around 110psi and wrecked my first RO system and flooded my basement because I had no idea... They seem willing to work with me so we'll see. Out of
    curiosity how much Carbon would I need 1cu. ft? 1.5? 2? You don't like Vortech tanks I think I read somewhere. I am looking at my current water bill and this month I averaged 120 Gals a day and I peak
    out at 150 3 months out of the year when my daughter is home...

    Once again thanks for all the help everyone here has provided so far. I have learned a ton I WISH I knew before 1997 when I installed my first softener and wish I knew even more when I got the Ionics back in 2000...
    Last edited by KimbaWLion; 11-06-2013 at 06:44 PM.
    I may NOT be the best guy BUT I am NOT the bad guy! -Coop from Megas XLR

  15. #30
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    The 7000 is a great valve. One of the best available. Check out my link below to see how easy they are to rebuild. Some companies don't like them for several reasons. Primarily, they take an extra five minutes of training over the 5600SXT to become a real pro at them. Both valves are fine, but in my opinion, and considering I sell thousands of each a year, the 7000SXT is much better. It is not better for companies that have new employees they have to train every week because they hire incompetent people who have no mechanical aptitude. Most of the commercial companies have switched to the 7000, but these are companies with real service techs who can handle a valve that has a few less screws and require a tiny bit of experience. Like the Clack valve, the 7000 is not based on a 40 year old design, so some companies make it out to be a difficult valve. Change is very hard for some people.

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