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Thread: Ionics 1030B is having issues installed around 2000

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member KimbaWLion's Avatar
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    Default Ionics 1030B is having issues installed around 2000

    Hello there peoples,

    I originally had a US Filter water softener that really gave me grief and the company disappeared and I ended up with an Ionics 1030B ( 30000 Grain I believe ) which has served me rather faithfully since then.

    I had it serviced around 2 years ago when the timer stopped working and the local guy covering for Ionics ( Now Puronics ) fixed for about $190 in total service call.

    At the moment I am running on bypass my bypass valve is mounted vertically instead of horizontally too since the Valve on the Ionics is vertically attached, I have not seen that too often.

    At the moment water keeps going over the KCL in the Brine tank and I a getting Crusting of KCL on the outside of the plastic Brine Tank itself. The salt level never has not gone down in ages either and the salt is fairly loose.
    I am getting tired of bailing water out the tank to get around the salt level and it seems to regenerate fine. The salt has not gone down in a while I have NOT tested it I am getting crusting around fixtures and
    my toilets get discolored now where they were not before.
    The last time I checked my hardness it was around 13 grains. My mother who just had her water tested using the same Phila. Suburban water also 13 grains with everything else pretty normal.

    I am just not happy, not sure what do to etc. Do I fix this unit? Do I get a new one? I was looking at an 8 year old Kinetico Model 60 with NEW tanks that is around $500. I was looking at a USWater Systems Unit Fusion Model that is 53000 grain, vortech for backwash, 1.5cu/ft flow with a 1" inch inlet, that lets me cover my 3 person family and any extras. comes with 10% Cross linked Resin etc. etc. that is around $1163 shipped to my door complete. I was toying either either a carbon tank or just installing a large carbon pre-filter this time around too.

    I really do not know what do, repair, cheap out with get the used Kinetico or buy a new as US Water Systems has been around for a bit and the price for their "fusion" system is really hard to beat ( nice stainless steel tank like my Ionics too ) its really easy to program and use too.

    I know you guys get this question a lot but for an engineer I am over thinking this way too much so I'll the experts here. Thanks in advance for the advice!

  2. #2
    DIY Senior Member Reach4's Avatar
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    I am not expert. But I am wondering why you use KCl rather than NaCl. I presume you are looking for less sodium in the water. KCl costs more, and I wonder if it is as soluble.

    "I am getting tired of bailing water out the tank to get around the salt level and it seems to regenerate fine. "
    I don't think this is compatible with regenerating fine. You are having to remove brine to keep the brine tank from overflowing? Clearly there is a problem. A clog? I don't know.

    Anyway, I suggest you post one or more photos including the controller, so that when the knowledgeable guys get here, they will have info to give you better suggestions. Also, if they suggest replacement, they will want to know the number of people, bathrooms, water use, etc.

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member KimbaWLion's Avatar
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    I should have made myself a little more clear. By regenerate fine, I mean there is no water all over the place and I can hear it drain as well as watch it drain. I do not get any water over the floor but I DO get have a salt haze over the one side of the brine tank that I NEVER use to get. The Brine tank never overflows but I bail water out to lower the insides to the salt level.
    I can take pictures which I'll post in a little bit BUT I understand the valve is VERY similar to a Fleck 2510 if not a Fleck 2510 modified by Ionics, I understand the parts are interchangeable.
    I use KCl for a few reasons. One is Potassium is good me and I can drink from the other taps if I have to and not worry about the Sodium. When I first got it there was practically NO difference in price. When I did use salt in the beginning other family members said they did not like the state even through the RO. Yes I know it sounds silly but its easier for me to just use the KCl than to listen to it.
    As I said I'll post pics and the heavy hitters can guide me. I mean my 3rd Soft water system in 14 years? I am just SOOOO lucky...

    Other pertinent information 3 full bathrooms with 2 used most of the time. There are 2 full time people with my daughter away at college so 3 in the late Spring Summer and for a Winter break...
    I have a double 50 gal. hot water tanks system so Hot water is never an issue my house. At the time I installed it Tankless units were not all the rage and cost way more than the dual tanks system I have...
    That may be meaningless additional info but I guess I talk to much...
    Last edited by KimbaWLion; 10-31-2013 at 05:12 PM.
    I may NOT be the best guy BUT I am NOT the bad guy! -Coop from Megas XLR

  4. #4
    DIY Junior Member KimbaWLion's Avatar
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    Pics as requested:

    Name:  Brine Tank smaller.jpg
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    Name:  Front meter shot smaller.jpg
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    Name:  Rear valve with bypass smaller.jpg
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    Name:  Tank shot smaller.jpg
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    Name:  Water over salt smaller.jpg
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    It is dusty back there so I am sorry for that. I think I'll add a shot or 2 with the pressure reducer on it so you can a full Idea of the install.

    The little blue label says .25 GPM .75lb Salt/min
    Last edited by Terry; 10-31-2013 at 07:10 PM.
    I may NOT be the best guy BUT I am NOT the bad guy! -Coop from Megas XLR

  5. #5
    DIY Junior Member KimbaWLion's Avatar
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    2 more pics from the water supply so you have the full install!

    Name:  Back shot PR.jpg
Views: 75
Size:  30.4 KB

    Name:  Front shot PR.jpg
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    Last edited by Terry; 10-31-2013 at 07:10 PM.
    I may NOT be the best guy BUT I am NOT the bad guy! -Coop from Megas XLR

  6. #6
    DIY Junior Member KimbaWLion's Avatar
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    SOME how it double posted no idea so ignore this one and could the admin PLEASE remove this?
    Thank you!
    I may NOT be the best guy BUT I am NOT the bad guy! -Coop from Megas XLR

  7. #7
    DIY Senior Member Reach4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KimbaWLion View Post
    Brine tank never overflows but I bail water out to lower the insides to the salt level.
    The tall white cylinder in the brine tank contains a safety float. That is to prevent the brine from overfilling. It is normally not there to set the level; the level of refill is set by the timer. The brine should all be sucked out during the Brine Draw cycle. I suspect this is not happening for you for some reason.

    Usually the salt is higher in the brine tank, but I don't think that is really your problem.

    I think you should monitor a cycle.

    Wash that salt residue off of your stuff.
    Last edited by Reach4; 10-31-2013 at 06:11 PM.

  8. #8
    DIY Junior Member KimbaWLion's Avatar
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    I know that and clean it up so it does look clean, it gets that after about 4 weeks. I left that way to show how it turns out after a few regens.
    I'll clean it up now that I have taken pictures.
    I may NOT be the best guy BUT I am NOT the bad guy! -Coop from Megas XLR

  9. #9
    DIY Senior Member Reach4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KimbaWLion View Post
    I know that and clean it up so it does look clean, it gets that after about 4 weeks. I left that way to show how it turns out after a few regens.
    I'll clean it up now that I have taken pictures.
    Wild. Do you get water on the floor during a regen?

  10. #10
    DIY Junior Member KimbaWLion's Avatar
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    To be honest when I get down there to check things in the morning the floor is dry. My BEST guess? There is minor wetness that is totally dried up fast and all that is left is the salt film.

    When it regenerates the water goes up the shown pipe and and it empties in a basement sink on the other side of the basement. Something has to be clogged SOMEWHERE but I do not know where to begin.
    When you look at the newer ones you see all electronic controls and a Vortech backwash that uses a lot less water. The resin should still be good as one of the few things Ionics was known for at the time.
    While I have it on bypass I am going to order a water testing kit and recheck everything. I really can't imagine the water quality changing that much but I'll recheck it. Phila. Suburban water AKA Aqua now
    is typical city water and other than chlorine and some hardness I should be okay.

    If I am going to do anything I am debating on adding a carbon house filter vs. a whole unit. Once I know what really is causing this
    I can figure out the cost to benefit of getting a new unit. I just REALLY miss my soft water, I REALLY do... I would have to measure the valve size etc. and then that vertical in out at the by bass would have to be corrected by some shark bytes and Pex... MAYBE I can just add a new more modern valve. I really need help don't I as I am starting to over think everything again...
    I may NOT be the best guy BUT I am NOT the bad guy! -Coop from Megas XLR

  11. #11
    DIY Junior Member KimbaWLion's Avatar
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    Another Double posting
    Last edited by KimbaWLion; 10-31-2013 at 08:50 PM. Reason: should never have been posted........
    I may NOT be the best guy BUT I am NOT the bad guy! -Coop from Megas XLR

  12. #12
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    The most common causes of too much brine water are (in order of probability).... loose brine line connections (one on each end of the brine line and the one under the float valve in the brine well in the brine tank where the brine pickup tube connects to the valve), blocked injector or injector screen (under the brass/steel plate held on to the side of the brine valve before the brine line connection), blocked drain line, leaking brine valve (where the brine line connects to the control valve.
    Last edited by Gary Slusser; 11-01-2013 at 07:17 AM.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  13. #13
    DIY Senior Member Reach4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Slusser View Post
    The most common causes of too much brine water are (in order of probability).... loose brine line connections (one on each end of the brine line and the one under the float valve in the brine well in the brine tank where the brine pickup tube connects to the valve)
    Would that salt residue outside of his tank point to a leak where the brine line enters the brine tank? I leaks water slowly during the refill, but leaks air fast during the brine stage?

    My other thought that the high brine level due to whatever reason is letting water leak out through a seal that is not normally under water.
    Last edited by Reach4; 11-01-2013 at 07:34 AM.

  14. #14
    DIY Junior Member KimbaWLion's Avatar
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    I spoke to the "unofficial" Ionics Repair people (people that just repair and service Ionics and recommended by them and do NOT sell them). They fixed my timer (Model 3210) with no issues about 2 years ago for a fair price. They are going to come out and look at it for free as I am going to have my water tested and have their "free" evaluation even though they are not going to see me a system. They mainly sell units they make using the Fleck 5600 valve. They told me MOST likely I have a clogged injector. I think tossing in a diagnosis to go along with their 9 point free water test (iron, Ph, Chlorine, harness etc. etc.) is a great deal as they have been in business since 1958 and other than trying to talk me into a Pelican system they are are not really hard selling me.
    They also said most of the parts on the 2510 Valve are the same as Ionics, but NOT quite everything.

    @Gary Thanks for the info Gary it seems you and they agree. I will know at least how my water is after 13 years, see if I need to change anything, and hopefully they can fix/unclog what they have without further to do. They even suggested a worse case scenario of just changing the valve out IF need be though that would not be my first choice and I am not even sure I gain anything.

    @Reach4 The residue comes out a a small over flow plug in the middle of the brine tank at the height of the water you see in the picture. The service company says in their experience with my model it is USUALLY a
    clogged injector. I checked inside the tube and everything SEEMS OKAY...
    Last edited by KimbaWLion; 11-01-2013 at 08:05 AM.
    I may NOT be the best guy BUT I am NOT the bad guy! -Coop from Megas XLR

  15. #15
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Refill water would rinse the salt residue off. I think his salt tank is overflowing and the salt fans out, maybe the salt tank is leaning a bit causing the residue to spread out, which salt tends to cause anyway. Under the brine line there is no salt on the salt tank.
    Last edited by Gary Slusser; 11-01-2013 at 08:08 AM.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

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