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Thread: Vortech and mid vortech - Recommendations please.

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member wsjp's Avatar
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    Default Vortech and mid vortech - Recommendations please.

    Hi all, I am replacing my existing water softener due to a crack. I had an old system that was a dual tank setup, from pentair. It was one tank stacked on top of the other tank, threaded together. The threaded area started to leak after 5+ years of service. After tightening, the threads sheared off!!

    Due to space constraints, I need a similar setup to have carbon and the resin in one tank. The vortech with mid-vortech seems to fit the bill, however I have read some issues with the cap separating from the plate at the bottom. Aside from that, how would one change the media and the resin??? I spoke with a rep from Enpress and they said that there is a way to do it, via some type of small vacuum tube, but he didn't give details...

    So, what is the collective thought on this type of tank? Avoid or buy and why.

    Option #2 - get a domed tank with normal distribution tube, put gravel at bottom, toss in the resin, get carbon and make some pouches out of ultrafine screen material.

    Any recommendations on what kind of screen I could use? Some type of NSF plastic of course.

    Thanks in advance.

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    DIY Senior Member mialynette2003's Avatar
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    The only dealing I have had with what I believe was a Vortex tank was a service call for resin in the house. Upon inspection, I found that the riser came apart from the basket. This could not be fixed, so a new tank was needed. The cost was over $200. vs $10.50 had it been a standard tank. The best fix is to add a seporate tank for the carbon.

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    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    http://www.terrylove.com/forums/show...ight=prototype

    Here is my quad stacked tank system design. The original stacked tank design was in place for over a decade and has since been relocated to a new home.

    If the tank is a Structural, it is probably still under warranty. Maybe someone on this site who is a Pentair distributor near you can help you check. Post a picture of the system, the valve, the cracked part, etc.

    The design of the Vortec is great, but servicing is not friendly compared to a properly designed stacked tank design. I do not like working on them at all. The amount of media you can get in the systems with dividers is also very limited. You can get a little extra with a stacked tank design. The best way is to use seperate tanks for the different medias.

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    DIY Junior Member wsjp's Avatar
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    Unfortunately, the system was tossed as it was making a mess everywhere. It looks like this:

    Name:  dualpurposeinstall2.jpg
Views: 98
Size:  3.9 KB


    So, Dittohead, if I am reading you correctly, I can still accomplish what I am trying to achieve by simply finding smaller tanks, in this case I need to find two 10x30 tanks. Why did you use smaller tanks on top of the bigger tanks? Strength concerns? Do you know of a source for tanks of that size?

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    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    There are several design considerations that are poorly addressed by many companies. The different medias require different backwash rates. if you look at my personal system, it is 4 different tank diameters with 4 different medias, and all of them are being backwashed to specification.

    A properly designed system is usually a stacked tank with a 12x48 on the bottom and a 10x22 on top or something similar. The lower tank is resin with a backwash rate of 5 GPM per sq.ft. so it should be backwashed at approximately 4 GPM. A 10" GAC tank should be backwwashed at 10 GPM per Sq. Ft., so approximately 5 GPM is adequate. The 12x48 tank is rated for 1.7 Cu. Ft. of resin and is underfilled slightly to allow for a higher freeboard to allow for the DLFC to be set at 5 GPM.

    This way, both medias are adequately backwashed. The picture you have shows both tanks being the same diameter, this is common, but not recommended.

    Name:  stack.jpg
Views: 87
Size:  13.8 KB this is what a properly designed GAC/Softener stack would look like.

    The only problem with this design is the GAC quantity is relatively low, only 1/2 cu. ft. This is fine for whole house chlorine reduction from municipal supplies, it would not be recommended for organics, solvents, etc. removal. The GAC should also be changed every few years and is very inexpensive.

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    DIY Junior Member wsjp's Avatar
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    I understand where your coming from. I figured out why most places use the same stacked one on top of the other - ease of handling and shipping. Odd sizes are harder to box and more subject to damage while in transit.

    Can you point me to an internet source for odd sizes of media tanks?

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    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
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    I'd be interested in a reference to good documentation on building a stacked-tank system.
    Last edited by Mikey; 11-02-2013 at 04:53 AM.

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    DIY Junior Member wsjp's Avatar
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    Aside from designing ideal systems, I really need a real world solution! LOL the mrs. is getting tired of hard water...

    Does anyone have a resource for ordering tanks online?

    I have searched through several pages of google results, but I am having a hard time finding the odd sizes I would need. For example, a 12x36 single hole and a 10x24 two hole tank.

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    DIY Junior Member wsjp's Avatar
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    duplicate post
    Last edited by wsjp; 11-01-2013 at 08:04 PM.

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    DIY Junior Member wsjp's Avatar
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    duplicate post

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    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    PM sent. I have several recommendations for you.

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    DIY Junior Member wsjp's Avatar
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    PM sent .

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