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Thread: utica boiler 1989.whats that sound ?

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    DIY Member 4uzindian's Avatar
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    Default utica boiler 1989.whats that sound ?

    recentley had tech put in new expansion tank and inlet pressure valve that has no adjustment on it.like the other one did . boiler model is dv.heat is working.but in the bathroom upstairs -it is a medium ranch house.the vanity insalled in 1974 covers one of the baseboards completly the other baseboard in is on the other wall.heres the question how come after 40 years the baseboard under the vanity sounds like theres water running -not the sound of air in the pipes. but like a toilet refilling.the baseboard to the right of does't have this sound. never had this sound before.these are the return pipes to boiler .the output pipe has no sound like this. could it be to much pressure. or is my bell and gosset pump on it's way out? here's the other part. the boiler pressure gauge at rest or in off position reads 25 psi. when heated and running it reads 36 -38 psi. the the tech said the gauge is off not to worry .because if it was right the pressure valve would be spewing steam an water.

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    In the trades Dana's Avatar
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    Putting an accurate pressure gauge on the system would be useful.

    Running too high a pressure would not cause that symptom, but air in the system might, if it's a bubble right at that location that isn't somehow getting purged, but not so large that it vapor-locks.

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    DIY Member 4uzindian's Avatar
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    thanks for quick response .could i the inexpeineced home owner put a pressure check on it or would a tech have to do it ? or should i call him back to check this problem and have him re purge the system ?

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    In the trades Dana's Avatar
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    If there's a place reasonably close to the boiler where you can install one, a T & P gauge is useful:

    Almost every boiler installation has a drain port with a hose fitting where you could hang one of these for a quick test. A ;0-200psi unit isn't ideal- 0-100psi or 0-50 psi would be better, but 0-200psi range fine for your purposes- you'd still be able to tell with reasonable certainty the difference between 12-15psi and 25-30psi.
    Last edited by Dana; 10-30-2013 at 10:46 AM.

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    DIY Member 4uzindian's Avatar
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    i don't understand .theres a pressure releive valve on the boiler .so if the pressure goes over 30 psi it releases pwater or steam is this where i screw that pressure gauge you displayed to test .confused .i'll keep this post going with you. i now have another slight problem that will be a new post.that will be titled Leaky return valve.

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    In the trades Dana's Avatar
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    You have a gauge that's reading 36-38 psi, and a pressure relief that's supposed to open at 30psi. Is there any reason to believe that it's the gauge that's screwed up, and not the pressure relief valve?

    There is a valve somewhere for draining or to aid in air-purging the system or zone, NOT the pressure relief- it's usually a brass/bronze hose-bib type of faucet:



    Putting the pressure gauge on that point is as easy as hooking up a hose. Crack the valve open to allow the gauge to sense the system pressure. Note where/how they hook up the hose for air-purging this system. The location will vary, but it's a pretty typical. That's a reasonable place to spot-check the pressure after the system is filled & purged, if you can determine that the system gauge really IS reading incorrectly. If the old gauge is a threaded fit rather than soldered connection, you can probably find a suitable replacement at box-store or hardware store and pull a DIY swap.

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    DIY Member 4uzindian's Avatar
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    i understand this now. there is a drain valve below the pump . should i decide to buy this test gauge i'll post back on this subject.until then my slight problem is the leaking return valve. which is on the new post .titled utica boiler-leaky return valve.24 views no one has answered.could you reply to this post ?
    Last edited by 4uzindian; 10-31-2013 at 12:08 PM.

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