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Thread: Leak Defender

  1. #1

    Default Leak Defender

    Hi All,
    I am writing about a leak detection/well water shutoff system I have developed. I do not use a shutoff valve or any type of computer controls.
    I use "Old School" over sized parts for endurance and reliability. Today everything is complicated and built with poor quality. They are not reliable and when you need a system to work this is as "bullet proof" as it gets. I shut off the power to the well pump when a leak is detected by interrupting the power to the pump with an inline power relay (clapper type). It is a NC relay so no energy is used till required to open the circuit. The system is powered by the pump power so no other power is required. To install it you would place the control box between the well power switch and the pressure switch or the pump controller power line. There is a wired by cable water sensor that is located under the well tank or any water delivered appliance and will send a signal to the control box when water is detected. There can be up to six sensors if desired with various cable lengths. It actually takes no longer than 20 minutes to install. The mounting of the control box will take longer than wiring the system. Thoughts??

    Thanks,
    Lucky Don

  2. #2
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    Depending on the nature of the leak, if there are no solenoid valves involved, then the contents of the pressure tank and possibly the hot water tank and lines could conceivably still flood and cause damage. Also if the HWT is electric, it could burn out the elements. Not sure what would happen with a gas water heater.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by LLigetfa View Post
    Depending on the nature of the leak, if there are no solenoid valves involved, then the contents of the pressure tank and possibly the hot water tank and lines could conceivably still flood and cause damage. Also if the HWT is electric, it could burn out the elements. Not sure what would happen with a gas water heater.
    Thanks for the response. You are correct about the pressure tank leaking down if that is the source of the leak and causing a small amount of damage. This is better than a run away well water pump. As far as the HWT also contributing to the same leak, there should be a vacuum breaker in the system that will stop any siphoning of the HWT if the supply is shutoff. If the HWT is leaking and the main supply is shut off, chances are the elements will burn out but that HWT would need to be replaced anyway if it's the tank that is leaking. Checking on your question about a gas supplied system when the HWT drains down.

  4. #4

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    Hi LLigetfa,
    Check out the post called "Gas shutoff of HWT if leak drains tank" in the forum Water Heater and Tanks.
    This topic has a few ideas about the gas shutoff question.

    Thanks

  5. #5
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    This sounds like another good reason to use a smaller pressure tank. If there is a water leak and this device shuts the pump off, a small pressure tank would only leak 1 gallon of water in the house while a large pressure tank would leak 25 gallons into the house.

  6. #6

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    Yes, that's a good idea. I found that some people will dam the utility area with a sticky back door seal stuck to the floor about 1/2" high stuck to the floor just to contain the water leak if it's not too large.

  7. #7

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    Here are a couple of installation pix

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    Last edited by Lucky Don; 11-03-2013 at 08:12 AM.

  8. #8

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    I can be found at: WWW.tecinnovators.com

  9. #9
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    Be Great when you get your site up and running.

    Do You need some web design help ?


    Have you done any RFI tests with your remote sensors ? Is the wire twisted pair ?

    Can a Phone Dialer be added ?


    Keep your design going, and it should do good.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

    Cyber Security Protection for Windows C:\ > WWW.WinForce.Net

  10. #10
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    So far I've just been using the Zircon detectors standalone.

    I modified one by removing the sensor wires and soldered an RJ11 phone jack to it. That way, I could use phone cord to connect to a remote probe.

    At some point I want to play around with mFi, once they have some decent sensors. Their mPort can be made to work.
    http://community.ubnt.com/t5/mFi/Lea...ght/true#M2084
    http://www.ubnt.com/mfi
    http://www.ubnt.com/mfi#m-Ports

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