(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst 1234
Results 46 to 52 of 52

Thread: Need help with Fleck 7000SXT programming

  1. #46
    DIY Senior Member Reach4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    1,273

    Default

    I have not seen a salt grid. I had pictured them to be relatively thin and that the pickup would not draw from below the grid surface. I was presuming wrongly I suspect. From what I am wondering from responses on this thread, could it be true that

    1. a properly placed pickup with the air check valve on the dip tube could pull water far below the surface of a salt grid?

    2. that a refill of 4 gallons might not raise the brine level significantly visible above the grid to where a fifth gallon would make the water much more visible in the tank?

    3. the pickup could sit in some cavity/hole that extends beneath the top of the grid but yet solid salt would not go below the top of the salt grid? Is that some singular hole made for the purpose of connecting with the air check valve on the dip tube?

    On the thing about checking the right faucets, I am familiar with some houses in moderate hardness areas only having soft water piped to the hot water.

  2. #47
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Wherever I park the motorhome.
    Posts
    6,792

    Default

    Regardless of the type of air check or brine pickup tube, there is always brine left in the salt tank. Fresh water (Refill water, softened or hard) classifies on top of it because of the heavier brine staying on the bottom. Refill water will always dissolve any salt it comes in contact with, regardless if the salt is in hollow grid legs or on top of the grid. It takes 2-3 hours to dissolve salt to solution saturation. Plastic grids and their legs are perforated to allow refill water to contact the salt. The people wanting the refill to stop at least 1" above the grid are proving refill water classifies on top of the brine and that just 1" of contact will dissolve salt. Now IF 50 lb block salt is used, there will not be any salt down in the grid legs.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  3. #48
    DIY Senior Member mialynette2003's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ocala, Florida
    Posts
    670

    Default

    You do not have enough fill time based on the BLFC of .125. Change the BF to 32.

  4. #49
    DIY Junior Member 65Mustang's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    11

    Default

    Ok, I believe I have this Fleck 7000 unit working better.

    Yesterday I added 2 gallons of water to the solution to get 1 inch of water sitting on the grid. Added salt to cover the water and let sit overnight.
    This morning I did another re-gen and observed the stages. I bumped up the Brine Fill from 20 to 32 (per suggestion from mialynette2003) before the re-gen. Here are the settings:

    C = 30
    H = 14
    SF= 20
    RC= 150
    DO= 7
    B1=10
    BD=60
    B2=5
    RR=10
    BF=32 (Changed from 20)
    FM=t1.5

    The water draw during the BD cycle finishes about 30 minutes into the 60 minute cycle. The final capacity after re-gen went from 1535 to 2396. Also, the water fill after the BF stage results in about 1 inch of water above the grid. Soft water is more present now and the hardness at the kitchen sink reads 8.

    I should mention that all plumbing gets water from the softener (except the outdoor faucets).

    If anyone has any final comments, feel free to append. Thanks all for the assistance.

    *** 65mustang

  5. #50
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    1,707
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Programming guide below.

    This is for a higher quality water setting, not as efficieint though.

    Name:  7000 15.jpg
Views: 79
Size:  88.2 KB

  6. #51
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Wherever I park the motorhome.
    Posts
    6,792

    Default

    Mustang, since your softener hasn't been regenerating properly you haven't been removing all the hardness from the resin. That means your capacity is reduced and that is why you are getting hardness through the softener. The cure is to change the salt dose (minutes o refill water) to 15 lbs per cuft of resin and then do 2 manual regenerations with no water use during or between them. Then change the salt dose to what it has to be for the capacity you need between regenerations including a 24 hr reserve. You can learn how to do that by clicking the Click Here link in my signature.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  7. #52
    DIY Junior Member wantonsoup's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Reach4 View Post
    I like this for iron and sulfur. It would go right after your expansion tank and before your water softener.

    http://www.discountwatersofteners.co...ubic-foot.html It uses Centaur Carbon. I have one. They have a bigger and smaller offering also. Other people sell this technology too. This is not to say that your water is like mine. Yes, it is like buying another water softener. :-(

    I don't know about hardness from sulfur, but there is more to water than softness. Getting rid of sulfur and iron does make things smell better and stop red stains and black water.
    I moved into a house serviced by a well a year ago, and after having tested the water it was moderately hard and had a little bit of iron, so we put in a softener and a Centaur carbon filter (filter first of course). Both use a Fleck 7000 head unit.

    But 6 months later we started getting the stinky water and it got worse and worse until I did a bleach shock chlorination which solved the problem for a little while and now it's starting up again. When I do an extra cycle on the carbon filter, the smell goes away for a few days. It's set up to regen every 7 days, I'm thinking I could just up that to every 3 days to fix this problem, but your link to the Eliminator system makes me wonder if I can easily retrofit my current Centaur / Fleck 7000 system with the bleach tank to solve this problem too?

    What are your thoughts?

Similar Threads

  1. Fleck 5600SXT vs Fleck 7000SXT
    By amateurplumber1 in forum Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and reviews
    Replies: 21
    Last Post: 04-02-2013, 11:38 AM
  2. Need help in programming Fleck 7000sxt.
    By clanmcclellan in forum Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and reviews
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 01-14-2013, 07:52 PM
  3. Fleck 7000SXT 32k Noise Troubleshooting and Programming
    By kaisersoze in forum Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and reviews
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 08-31-2012, 11:09 AM
  4. My new Fleck 7000sxt
    By fdny37 in forum Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and reviews
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 07-30-2012, 11:24 AM
  5. Programming 7000SXT
    By David58 in forum Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and reviews
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 05-06-2011, 08:26 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •