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Thread: Need help with Fleck 7000SXT programming

  1. #16
    DIY Senior Member mialynette2003's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyG View Post
    I see you are in Ocala. Do you work for a water softener company?
    No, I have my own company (SWS Systems)

  2. #17
    DIY Junior Member 65Mustang's Avatar
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    Question Also looking for Fleck 7000SXT programming advice

    I also am in need of a programming review of my Fleck 7000SXT, 48,000 capacity. I installed it myself, replaced a Northstar all-in-one tank system. Iíve been using the new Fleck about 5 months now. I am having the same issues as the original thread creator, some soft water noticeable but not like the Northstar. Soft water pellets are barely disappearing after 5 months.

    I tested the water before and after the Fleck using a HACH Hardness test kit. I show 14 grains/GAL before the softener, 11 grains/GAL at the kitchen faucet. I had the water tested twice for iron Ė both showed negligible amounts.

    After a re-gen, I read 6705 on the Fleck display. With a family of 5 using water, after 13 days (just before a re-gen), I show around 3000 on the display.

    Here are my settings:

    DF = GAL
    VT= df2b
    CT= FD
    C = 48
    H = 7
    RS = SF
    SF= 20
    RC= 150
    DO= 14
    RT= 2:30
    B1=10
    BD=60
    B2=5
    RR=10
    BF=12
    FM=t1.5

    I would like to re-gen every 14 days. I would appreciate any advice/assistance. Thank you in advance.

  3. #18
    DIY Senior Member Reach4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 65Mustang View Post
    I also am in need of a programming review of my Fleck 7000SXT, 48,000 capacity. I installed it myself, replaced a Northstar all-in-one tank system. I’ve been using the new Fleck about 5 months now. I am having the same issues as the original thread creator, some soft water noticeable but not like the Northstar. Soft water pellets are barely disappearing after 5 months.

    I tested the water before and after the Fleck using a HACH Hardness test kit. I show 14 grains/GAL before the softener, 11 grains/GAL at the kitchen faucet. I had the water tested twice for iron – both showed negligible amounts.
    Have you checked for a salt bridge? Try temporarily removing enough salt pellets so that you can see the water and can be sure there is solid salt in the brine.
    Manually Initiating a Regeneration
    1. When timer is in service, press the Extra Cycle button for 5 seconds on the main screen.
    2. The timer advances to Regeneration Cycle Step #1 (backwash), and begins programmed time count down.
    3. Press the Extra Cycle button once to advance valve to Regeneration Cycle Step #2 (brine draw & slow rinse).
    4. Press the Extra Cycle button once to advance valve to Regeneration Cycle Step #3 (backwash).
    5. Press the Extra Cycle button once to advance valve to Regeneration Cycle Step #4 (rapid rinse).
    6. Press the Extra Cycle button once to advance valve to Regeneration Cycle Step #5 (brine refill).
    7. Press the Extra Cycle button once more to advance the valve back to in service.
    Note the water level Make sure water level drops to within a few inches of the bottom during brine draw.

    Make sure the brine level comes back up during the brine refill. Hmmm... BF=12 would seem to correspond to 6 gallons of water during the brine refill.

  4. #19
    DIY Senior Member mialynette2003's Avatar
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    The capacity setting should be 40 and not 48. Also, what size brine flow control do you have? If it's .25 GPM than you are only using 9 lbs of salt per regen when you should be using more. You have the hardness setting at 7 but yet you have tested it at 14 before the softener.

  5. #20
    DIY Senior Member Reach4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mialynette2003 View Post
    You have the hardness setting at 7 but yet you have tested it at 14 before the softener.
    Good catch on the H=7 should be H=14.

  6. #21
    DIY Junior Member 65Mustang's Avatar
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    Hi all,

    The tank was loaded with 2 bags of new Morton salt pellets at kick-off in July.
    I emptied out most of the pellets tonight from the plastic bin, I did not see any salt bridge.
    Not sure what size my brine flow control is. Where do I find that ?

    Are these Regen parameters correct?

    B1 = 10
    BD = 60 (manual says set to 30 for 48,000 system)
    B2 = 5
    RR = 10
    BF = 12

    Here are the details of my softener from the datasheet:

    Model: 70-SXT-2-48-M
    Specs: 10x54" mineral tank, 1.5 cu. ft. of high capacity resin, 18 x 33" brine tank, 2310 brine float, salt platform, 1 1/4" bypass valve, 1.25" connectors, 7000SXT Fleck Metered on demand valve, floor space 29 x 18 x 62"
    Capacity: 48,000 grains

    I am going to change C=40 (per mialynette2003 recommendation), BD to 30 (per manual) and H to 14 (per mialynette2003). It's due for a re-gen (day 12 of 14) so I'll kick one off tonight. I'll let all know the results.

    Thank you.

  7. #22
    DIY Senior Member Reach4's Avatar
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    Your changes may make a big difference, and you maybe don't need to read further. Remember you can trigger an immediate regen, and you don't have to wait until the 2AM start.

    But if you do want to watch, note how many inches of brine are in the tank. Also note the tank size.

    Ideally, you can watch during the brine draw, and see the level reduce. From the difference between the two levels, the tank size, and approximately how much solid salt (percent estimate), I am thinking we can estimate how much water is being added back in during the refill stage.

    There may be a label on the control near where the brine hose is that identifies which button for flow control is installed. If not, you could pull that fitting, and extract the button. That is the BLFC (brine level flow control) that you can see in the parts list of your service manual. Look at your control and see if you can see a label. That would be the simplest.
    Last edited by Reach4; 11-18-2013 at 09:41 PM.

  8. #23
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Mustang, where in the manual does it say that BD should be 30 for a 48K? That is not correct.

    Also, your salt dose is too low and you really should not try to get 48K out of your volume of resin.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  9. #24
    DIY Junior Member 65Mustang's Avatar
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    Thanks Reach. Iíll see if I can get at the fitting to take a look at the part.

    Gary; my Bad. I read the Installation Manual incorrectly - it is not 1-for-1 with my head unit. Here is what the Install Manual recommends for my 48k system:

    B1 = 10
    BD = 60
    B2 = 5
    RR = 10
    BF = 30 (based on table in the manual, set to 30 for 48,000 system)

    Is this better ?

    Also, if my salt dose is too low (canít get 48K out), what change should I make ?

    Thanks in advance.

  10. #25
    DIY Senior Member Reach4's Avatar
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    If I understand correctly, the water used to refill the tank brine is BF * (BLFC button value). Looking at the link in Gary's sig, for reasonable salt use, you/I/one might want 6 pounds of salt * 1.5 cubic feet of resin = 9 pounds giving a revised capacity of 30,000 grains for 1.5CF. At 3 pounds of salt per gallon, you would want 3 gallons. I am thinking that 65Mustang is very probably right (subject to verification but your observed low salt use seems to confirm) that you have a 0.25 GPM BLFC button. BF= 12 minutes delivers 3 gallons of water to give 9 pounds of salt into the brine draw. Good. So change to C=30, H=14. You will regen more often, but that will be fine.

    Also use Gary's calculator at http://www.qualitywaterassociates.com/sizing.php Note in the calculations that you can get more capacity by raising BF, which controls the salt used per regen. BF=30 will use a lot more salt: 22.5 pounds.

    When you test hardness at the kitchen, use the cold tap; the hot tap will give a delayed reading because of the hot water heater tank.
    Last edited by Reach4; 11-19-2013 at 07:30 AM.

  11. #26
    DIY Senior Member mialynette2003's Avatar
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    My error. 1 CF of resin on an efficiency setting is 20K so a 1.5 CF should be set at 30 not 40 ( I blame fat fingers on that). My real concern is the BF (brine fill). Look where the brine line attaches to the valve. Should be a sticker that says the brine flow rate.

  12. #27
    DIY Junior Member 65Mustang's Avatar
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    Ok, I think I may be grasping this. Based on feedback from all and the sizing chart link, my key settings should be this:

    C = 30
    H = 14
    SF= 20
    RC= 150
    DO= 7 (7 day re-gen based on new BF setting below)
    B1=10
    BD=60
    B2=5
    RR=10
    BF=20 (for 32000 grains capacity based on 60 gallons per day, 5 people, 14 grains hardness and 7 day re-gen with 24 hour reserve).
    FM=t1.5

  13. #28
    DIY Junior Member 65Mustang's Avatar
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    mialynette2003 - Can't seem to find any sticker indicating Brine Flow Rate.

    All - Any change suggestions to my latest settings ?

    Thanks again for the help.

  14. #29
    DIY Senior Member Reach4's Avatar
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    I did not go through all of your settings, but I will comment on three: DO, BF and C... The change to DO=7 should not be needed, since the controller is watching how much water is being used. So you could still keep the DO=14, and that will probably not factor in unless you are away some.

    Regarding the BF=20, that would go with C=40 and alternatively BF=12 would go with C=30 based on http://www.qualitywaterassociates.com/sizing.php

  15. #30
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    22.5 lbs regenerates 45K in a 1.5 cuft softener with regular mesh resin. That is 15lbs/cuft and 45,000/22.5 gets a salt efficiency of 2000 grains/lb. 30,000/9lbs (6lbs/cuft) is 3333 grains/lb.

    And don't forget a 24 hr reserve or a percentage although a percentage usually is more than a 24 hr reserve.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

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