How about glass block in place of the window.
Building a house and the plans were in place, the framing was done and the windows were ordered when I got the GRAND idea to do a Steam Shower. So, I notified my builder that what was to be a walk-in shower will now be a Steam Shower. So, we are proceeding as such. Now I'm doing research and here is the big mistake that dawned on me today... I insisted on having a casement window put in my shower when we first worked with the architect. So, when I was there today, looking at the installation of my Window in what is now to be my steam shower, I had a revelation... I have a wood-framed window in my steam shower. Oh gosh! That isn't going to work! No one caught that. I really want the natural light, but the more I research the more I realize I really should not have a window in a steam shower - especially one that opens and closes and is in a wood frame. The more I look and read, the more it sounds like I should can my steam shower plans or remove the window. The light in the shower from the window is very important to me. I want natural light in the shower. Is is possible to have a good-sized window in a steam shower? If so, Do I need to get a different window that doesn't open and close? I would say the light is more important to me than the steam. But I really would like the steam shower. Can I have both worlds? How? Ugh... I need someone like a John Whipple to tell me what he would do... "What Would Whipple do?"... or anyone else who has experience with steam showers and windows. I need to make a decision, and fast. Thanks!
How about glass block in place of the window.
He will tell you to replace the window with a fixed window and most likely he would try and talk you into a one hour design call. I know he is home this weekend and taking calls.
Then he would recommend you use a product called Kerdi Fix and a product called Kerdi DS.
Then he would wait for a Big Red Shoe to say something wrong and spend the next two weeks battling him here on Terry's Forum! LOL
No need to stop steam rooms design.
How did you do the barrier free?
I often need 2-3 hours of design time with these difficult builds. My reviews on Houzz have many recent comments about this process - If your stuck call me - get me on the clock and we can work out a plan.
For Sure - Window Goes
We are building a steam room at my home.
Yes - A Window.
No - It does not open.
Just say no to glass blocks unless you are using them elsewhere in the home. They are also not the best to vapour proof to.
Awesome!!! Okay - I will call and figure this out. After posting and doing more research until 2 in the morning, I see I need the expert. I will buzz you and we will setup a consult. And then I'm going to race over to my construction site and tell them to HALT on the shower progress... Eek!
Last steam shower I helped with we needed to issue a stop work order and get it all redone. Steam showers need to be designed and built with someone with five years experience. This is both a TCNA or TTMAC requirement. This means you can not say you have read instructions for a steamer and are an expert.
Thanks for the call just know Jen - look forward to our meeting tomorrow.
Pictures of the shower floor. Shower Drain. Walls all three. Ceiling. The more the better.
When we work out a window detail we can share this here so the info helps more people.
What are your vapour proofing requirements and insulation requirements.
I see no slots for air movement between the wall studs on the exterior sheathing.
I also don't see any 6mil poly on the interior wall connection points to the exterior wall. Typically you would install this before the 2"x4" was fastened to the outside wall's framing.
This appears to be the rough location for your shower's drain. At the framing stage I like to see if the area around the drain is supported by some blocking. It appears not since there does not look like any fasteners installed around the drain.
I also like a little more room around the drain - currently it's tight. This is easy to adjust when the drain gets installed.
How wide is the spacing on the floor joists for the shower floor? How long is the span of these floor joists?
There is only one type of backer board listed in both the TCNA and TTMAC Specifications. It's Concrete Board.
Let's assume you will specify concrete board - I won't help you further if you use anything else! Concrete board needs proper backing - this is specified as solid blocking around the perimeter. So this needs to be installed.
It would be nice to see some kind of blocking holding your shower's control valve in place.
Something like a 2"x10" if possible. Many times we can only fit in 1/2" ply or 3/4" plywood. Then it's easier to get the back side boarded with drywall (if it's not another shower) and then affect the plywood support to that.
I would check that the plumbing lines have plastic pipe clips installed on every penetration. Here in Vancouver we call them "Mickey Mouse Ears".
Like this: Image Source
Last edited by johnfrwhipple; 10-13-2013 at 06:52 AM.
Great to see the 2"x6" stud wall. You can get a nice R valve there. I need to understand your requirements for exterior walls and vapour proofing. Next week I need you to check with city hall.
If this was in Vancouver you would need a few holes (C in Photo Below) in the exterior sheathing material.
I don't like how the wall corner was built in "A" in the photo. I would ask for more blocking through this inside section. How many nails are holding the 2"x4" 's together where more than one is nailed to another. Could you check this for me. I often find the framers use less than 4-6 nails. I like to see 2 nails on 10" centres going up. I then like to add a few 3" screws to keep them tight.
"B" in the photo represents the blocking required for the backer board - backer board being cement board. Notice I added blocking top and bottom as well. This locks the studs in place and prevents any twisting. Instructions for Wonder Board Installation: http://www.homedepot.com/hdus/en_US/.../Docs/WBIG.pdf
I'll call you now.
Last edited by johnfrwhipple; 10-13-2013 at 07:01 AM.
Thank you John! I've got lots of questions - I know you will have the answers! Talk to you in a bit.
Awesome phone consult! Thank you John - I have some work to do and I'm glad I do not have to give up my steam shower dream!!! Look forward to the next consultation. THANK YOU!!!!
Here is a simple shower specification that outlines the proper layers for a shower floor using a three piece clamping drain.
This is the drawing to show your builder:
That is how I would do it.
When we use this approach we go with the NobleSeal TS and prefer their Noble FlexFlashing for the tie in to the drain. This way you can do a 2 1/4" - 1.5" mortar bed and then bond the NobleSeal TS to it.
If you go with Kerdi then you would simply switch the Noble Flex Flashing (1.5" vs not 3/4") and clamping drain for a Kerdi Drain.
Nelson Wilner <firstname.lastname@example.org> Is the guy to reach out to for a Noble Contact in Illinois. Remember that Dal Tile sells DalSeal TS which is the same. Noble company does ship direct to your door for $5.00. Check out their standard square drains.
Last edited by johnfrwhipple; 10-14-2013 at 08:28 AM.