An indirect might still have an anode...depends. Some with say a SS tank shouldn't need one. The specs I've read on some indirects are 1/4-degree per hour. SOme of that depends on how hot you heat it, and how cold the place it is sitting, but standby losses are minimal on a good tank. It probably still doesn't hurt to flush them a bit (more of an issue maybe with a well that might have silt or sand pumped up occasionally). It doesn't get the minerals deposited like a directly heated tank because the incoming hot water used to heat it is not hot enough to cause them to precipitate out.
So, yes, on a boiler designed for a cold start, an indirect is a very good choice! You typically don't need as big of a one as you might with a directly heated one, because it is likely your boiler has more output than a typical WH, and can reheat things faster. There are commercial WH that could outstrip it, but those are not typically installed in homes.
FWIW, in a non-heating season, it is not uncommon to walk by my boiler and notice that the system temperature is ambient (i.e., room temp), meaning it had not fired in quite a long time.